Resolved Trans temperature seems abit high!

[OH91awd]

ive got trans temp reading from the out to cooler and mine never got above 185* making a pass at the track. ive got my cooler mounted in the passenger side of the front bumper where the smic used to be and a cheap puller fan wired up. also it stats in that link that 300*f is maximum allowable temp.

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

ive got trans temp reading from the out to cooler and mine never got above 185* making a pass at the track. ive got my cooler mounted in the passenger side of the front bumper where the smic used to be and a cheap puller fan wired up. also it stats in that link that 300*f is maximum allowable temp.

Is this from just warming up and then going down the track though? And have you logged temps driving along the highway?

I ask this as if i was to warm it up and do a pull then sure my temps are good, its onoy while consistant on the accel for a good 30mins the temps rise, so short passes dont see temps a sustained drive on a highway might see,

 

[nek]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/auto-tranny-temp.442660/#post-153049832

 

[OH91awd]

Is this from just warming up and then going down the track though? And have you logged temps driving along the highway?

I ask this as if i was to warm it up and do a pull then sure my temps are good, its onoy while consistant on the accel for a good 30mins the temps rise, so short passes dont see temps a sustained drive on a highway might see,

my trans temps while driving are never close to what they are racing . ive taken the car cruising and temps never got above 150-160* and this is with a sinister 8" torque converter as well.

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

my trans temps while driving are never close to what they are racing . ive taken the car cruising and temps never got above 150-160* and this is with a sinister 8" torque converter as well.

Hmm, this has got me confused again as 2 cars with same location but different readings! But based from the link i was sent im ok. So its weird

Im going to order a drop in sensor for the pan and bung it down by the fill tube and monitor it in the pan, once thats ok which i think it will be then im going to log the return aswel and switch it so i can view both to and from the cooler at least, if in future im still not happy then i will move 1 to the pan as thats ideally the normal place to read from

 

[OH91awd]

Hmm, this has got me confused again as 2 cars with same location but different readings! But based from the link i was sent im ok. So its weird

Im going to order a drop in sensor for the pan and bung it down by the fill tube and monitor it in the pan, once thats ok which i think it will be then im going to log the return aswel and switch it so i can view both to and from the cooler at least, if in future im still not happy then i will move 1 to the pan as thats ideally the normal place to read from

the way i read that link is 300*f max. you ideally want to keep it lower than that. im just wondering if the sensor is sending wrong readings because for normal driving with a decent cooler you shouldnt be anywhere near those temps. are you running an aftermarket converter?

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

the way i read that link is 300*f max. you ideally want to keep it lower than that. im just wondering if the sensor is sending wrong readings because for normal driving with a decent cooler you shouldnt be anywhere near those temps. are you running an aftermarket converter?

That link does say 300 but im alsonreadying online that converters are normally able to reach 350 if not a tad more, 300 might possibly be our specific range perhaps.

Im on stock trans minus the coole, when i cruise i can be a tad lower.but not by much

 

[OH91awd]

That link does say 300 but im alsonreadying online that converters are normally able to reach 350 if not a tad more, 300 might possibly be our specific range perhaps.

Im on stock trans minus the coole, when i cruise i can be a tad lower.but not by much

i would honestly try another gauge to see if it reads the same or different. theres no way it should be in the high 200s 300* range. hell mine without a fan on the cooler never went over 185* driving in town in the middle of summer.

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

i would honestly try another gauge to see if it reads the same or different. theres no way it should be in the high 200s 300* range. hell mine without a fan on the cooler never went over 185* driving in town in the middle of summer.

I shall order another sensor and see what it says, i will also buy one to bung down the dipstick tube and check pan temps out aswel to see what thats upto

 

[chrysler kid]

The sensor is not the problem, the problem is the sensors location for the reading, i have confirmed the pan fluid temp is well within limits,

The location of the sensor reads from the torque converter so it WILL see alot higher temps,

No, it won't. If your readings were correct the metal would be glowing red on the cooler.

As mentioned before even drag racing big blocks never see temperatures above 220f. Above that range the oil loses its viscous properties

I'm not sure that it's solely the sensor, it's the readings which could be the display as well.

I mean you did use a infared temp reader, so use the infared temp gun on the sensor to verify the temperature is reading.

 

[bling5tatus]

My temperature sensor is plumbed into the outlet line from the transmission..... I don't know what "pan temperature" is other than maybe people are tapping sensors into their pans. I'd rather screw up a cheap part (transmission hose t'd for a temp sensor) potentially rather than an expensive one that's more work to replace.... but I'm speculating.

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

My temperature sensor is plumbed into the outlet line from the transmission..... I don't know what "pan temperature" is other than maybe people are tapping sensors into their pans. I'd rather screw up a cheap part (transmission hose t'd for a temp sensor) potentially rather than an expensive one that's more work to replace.... but I'm speculating.

I took a probe and dropped it down the dipstick after a drive to find its reading which showed stable and within range/spec, i think reading both is ideal but i read also reading the return helps to see the cooler doing its job.

After all this im looking at coing inline cooling now and ridding both oil and trans coolers, this uses the coolant and keeps its stable when when stopped, just a plan i think might be nice and better then twin coolers (i think)

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[asexton6969]

Air to Air FTW

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Air to Air FTW

I was told its more ideal to not over run the pump and cooling system so the laminova product it good but most of the race cars use air coolers to draw heat away from the car.
shall stick with what i got then

 

[bling5tatus]

I was reading about those Laminova coolers the other day actually. They seem to be a good fit for the application.

I'm currently using an air cooled trans cooler (like many people do) but if I could change it to a water cooled one I would.

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

I was reading about those Laminova coolers the other day actually. They seem to be a good fit for the application.

I'm currently using an air cooled trans cooler (like many people do) but if I could change it to a water cooled one I would.

Yeah they do seem good, i was talking to a few time attack guys and most say they do well,
I plan to swap to an electronic pump so when i do i might well go with a water cooler for oil/trans, but im also going to price up a custom rad with built in coolers as it might end up being cheaper going this route and also space saving too!