Timing Issues on Talon

[cncking2000]

Hey all, first post here. After about 3 years of waiting, I got my first DSM. I picked this car up for $700, and it works wonders. I have had a few issues with it that I have been doing some work on. I have performed a leak test which it passed, compression test is 125 across all 4 cylinders. I have replaced every vacuum line, as all the originals were split or cracked. While dealing with issues regarding boost, I removed the stock downpipe to find the old turbos exhaust turbine lodged in the bend of the downpipe, blocking off at least 75% of the flow. After removing the obstruction, the car can now spool up much faster, and higher than before. I have checked and replaced the plugs with NGK's and have the gap set at .026. I had originally set the base timing to 5 degrees, but I have some serious off the line issues. I am not sure what the stock stall speed on the tranny is, but while holding the brakes to launch the car, it revs to a max of 2k, and no boost is built, which from my searching, you should be able to hit 3000-3500 RPM on the stock converter. Aside from this example, acceleration from a stop is pitifully slow, and I have tried to advance the timing to just test this out. I am now up to 10 Degrees, and while the car is accelerating much faster, I am off the spec's that I have read are advisable to follow. I am running a 16G, Walbro 255 pump, rewired, Stock ECU, and all we have to burn here is 91 Octane. I am at 6000' Elevation as well. Any advice would be appreciated!

 

[cncking2000]

Any advice on the timing or the off the line stumbling problem, I would like to know.

 

[ilco187]

ok.

125 compression is very low it should be 160 or close

gap the plugs to .28

what all fuel upgrades do you have besides the fuel pump, if its stock then that fuel pump is more than likely your problem.

 

[95'RS-T]

you said you had a 255 pump but you didnt say you had a AFPR maybe the car is running rich?

 

[BigBeans]

ok.

125 compression is very low it should be 160 or close

gap the plugs to .28

what all fuel upgrades do you have besides the fuel pump, if its stock then that fuel pump is more than likely your problem.

Don't worry about the .002 on the plug gap, that's not going to affect anything in this situation.

you said you had a 255 pump but you didnt say you had a AFPR maybe the car is running rich?

Sounds like you might be onto something here. Still doesn't explain the 2K stall though.

 

[cncking2000]

The car is running the stock FPR, no need to lie about that one. The guy that I picked it up from said that he was a mechanic, and he just replaced the turbo, and for one thing, I really don't trust his work

I have not noticed any knock with the timing set to what it is at, but I still cannot get any increase in the stall. This car has some weird drive-ability issues that I am working out. This car takes off smooth and powerful from 750-1750 RPM, after that point it stumbles on its face until the turbo spools up at around 2750 to 3000 RPM. Now, I am not too certain what turbo is on this, and I think that is what is causing the problems. The housing says TD05H, which I am guessing is a 16G and with it being the stock ECU with no tuning, I think that is my issue. When I pulled the exhaust manifold to replace the gasket, I noticed that the valves on cylinders 1 and 3 were white, while 2 and 4 were darker, not quite black. I was thinking bad plugs or coil pack, so I replaced them all, and got 2 new coil packs. I won't have any logging or tuning until my DSM Link is ordered, which is why I have the previous owner's homemade MBC removed and the wastegate connected directly to the J-Pipe.

What about those iridium plugs? The previous owner said it ran horrible on the bpr6es plugs, and he put in some bpr6iex or whatever the iridium version is and it ran much better.

What I am wondering now is, with the altitude (6K Feet), and octane rating (91) Is having the timing at around 10 Deg Advance a bad thing, and should I set it back to 5, and figure out the low speed stumbling somewhere else?

Edit: After getting the energy up today, I discovered that it is a 14B Turbo.

 

[cncking2000]

Timing is now set to 7 Degrees advance, and it runs well. Still does not build boost off the line, and stalls no higher than 2000RPM, but I believe this is due to the leaking exhaust manifold gasket, and cracked 1G exhaust Manifold that I have on there. I have some crazy leaks that I need to take care of now, and I have posted this in the Denver area forum, as I don't really have a place to work on the car, crazy apartments!

 

[And_44]

Yea, the cracked exhaust manifold will delay your spool up time and boost a lot.

The iridium plugs are expensive, but poop for our cars from what I've read.

Is it your intake manifold gasket that's leaking? If so your vacuum is messed up before you hit boost. You'd be sucking in more air then your ECU is counting. And your ECU isn't throwing in enough full to compensate for the extra air at vacuum. With the intake the closest to the combustion any leak there would suck in as much air physically possible. But when you hit boost the pressure in the intake goes from a negative to a positive so instead of sucking air you'd be leaking air. When you did your leak test for your intake did you open your throttle? Or do the test with it closed? Your fuel trim is increased when your ECU see's a positive pressure so it may seem like your car runs better at boost. You'd be surprised at how much better it runs with an air tight system from filter to muffler.

If you fix your intake take leak you should get ALOT of drivability back in low RPMs. Though with the cracked exhaust manifold your spool up and time to get to full boost will still be delayed.

As for your compression. Turbo engines have lower numbers then n/t engines. 125 sounds fine. I believe at 110 you need to start worrying. N/T engines are aroune 160 -/+.