Timing belt tensioner advice

[Turboturd]

I'm new to this site but this is not a newbie question. I have changed my timing belt several times on several DSM's and never had a problem with the tensioner sitting at the right height after it settles, spec says 0.15-0.18 inches. I always align the eccentric bolt on the pulley bracket so that the holes are at 9 and 12, just like it says in the TSB. Problem is that on this new car I bought I put a brand new tensioner on, and everything lines up properly, except that the gap between the tenstioner body and the bracket is about 0.25 in. Is this really a problem????? I have checked the bracket for wear and it is in good shape. Everything lines up perfect and the belt doesn't seem to be excessively loose. I'm just wondering if I should compress the rod again, and adjust the eccentric pulley so that it rotates more clockwise to allow the tensioner to sit at the correct height. Does anyone think that will cause a problem?

 

[Seamus]

Braxket doesn't have a little divot in it?

 

[lasthope05]

If the motor had been worked on, ie. shaved head or block, it would account for the slack. The tensioner pulley location is also different between a 6 and 7 bolt motor. If Iwere you, I would most definitely adjust it.

For me it has always been around 10-1 or 11-2. In any case, you want to be able to slide the pin in and out once the belt and tensioner has settled for a while.

 

[Mark4g63t]

Yes readjust it! A 5/32 Drill bit should fit nice and snug and the pin should be able to slide back and fourth. The gap you have now is too large.

 

[daren_p]

Re-adjust so you can slide the grenade pin in & out. Its more important that the tensioner is set correctly, not the tensioner pulley.

 

[Turboturd]

Ok thanks for the input guys. My bracket has a tiny divot, but not as deep as one of the other brackets I had laying around. I have to buy the specialty rod tool to tighten down the tensioner in place, I'm tired of removing it and using a vice, so it will be next week before I try it out.

Good to know that I can over rotate the eccentric bolt some. I honestly have no idea whether this head has been milled, but I doubt it. The headgasket has been replaced by previous owner, but the block is stock and every other fix on the car was half assed, so I would guess he didn't bother.

 

[lasthope05]

You dont need a special tool. A trick is to use an allen key in one of the holes and hold it against the socket/nut as you tighten.

 

[Turboturd]

Maybe I wasn't specific enough. I'm talking about the one that screws in to tighten the tensioner so that you don't have to remove it, compress it in a vice, pin it, and then bolt it back in the car. If you are strong enough to compress that tensioner by hand by all means go ahead . I usually use an allen wrench to hold the pulley in place when I tighten it. The tool I'm talking about is MD998738, the one you are talking about is MD998752

 

[AWD Sebring]

Make sure your using the right tensioner, ive never had a problem with it, but I think there are three different styles from what I can remember..

 

[lasthope05]

If thats the case, all you need is m8x1.25 all thread rod from homedepot and two nuts. Nothing special about it.

Dsms dont really require any special tools.

 

[Turboturd]

If thats the case, all you need is m8x1.25 all thread rod from homedepot and two nuts. Nothing special about it.

Dsms dont really require any special tools.

As this is quite true, I have never seen metric threaded rod at my home depot, and I can't find any in the online store...but I will keep looking