timing belt failures 10k$ built motor

[ill-eagle]

So I've spent over $10,000 and two years. Started right up but heard a noise from timing area especially around 2500 rpms where i needed to break in my cams at. Timing belt was nice and tight but as i put more miles on it the noise became more persistent and from idle to 2500 rpms. Also would almost miss around 6k but run beautifully between 2500-6k.

NOW my huge problem is at 63 miles on the motor, i popped hood to check oil as always before i drive and touched my tbelt which had over an INCH of play between sprockets. not good. plus there's wear marks with the length of the belt almost as if its hitting oil pan bolts which its not. noise almost sounds like metal on metal grinding, will try and get a video.... any ideas would be amazing, pretty disappointed in this whole build after 63 miles.

BSE installed professionally and has not fallen out, new greddy tbelt oem tensioner and pulley. kelford 272, ferrera, crower valvetrain, revised lifters, je 8.5:1 pistons, manley I-beam.

 

[Grescht]

It's hitting something. If I were you I would go ahead and pull your pullies off and your t cover and do a visual check as to what its wearing on. Oil pump in good condition? Water pump? bearing failure in either of those can cause a metal on metal sound.

and as for the miss.... sounds like you may be a tooth off. or maybe your base timing is out of whack.


oh yeah, and check your actual timing cover, sometimes they can rub your T belt and cause damage.

Hope this helps.

p.s. Make sure the timing procedure is done correctly with the hydraulic tensioner and make sure you wait fifteen mins during that setup. and make sure the "happy face" tensioner is adjusted properly

oh yeah and one more thing. The way your cams fall to rest when the motor is off will also determine the amount of slack in between the two cam gears. I've seen belts look hella loose and after you crank the car it's tightened.

 

[1997_GSX]

It's hitting something. If I were you I would go ahead and pull your pullies off and your t cover and do a visual check as to what its wearing on. Oil pump in good condition? Water pump? bearing failure in either of those can cause a metal on metal sound.

and as for the miss.... sounds like you may be a tooth off. or maybe your base timing is out of whack.


oh yeah, and check your actual timing cover, sometimes they can rub your T belt and cause damage.

Hope this helps.

p.s. Make sure the timing procedure is done correctly with the hydraulic tensioner and make sure you wait fifteen mins during that setup. and make sure the "happy face" tensioner is adjusted properly

oh yeah and one more thing. The way your cams fall to rest when the motor is off will also determine the amount of slack in between the two cam gears. I've seen belts look hella loose and after you crank the car it's tightened.

Mine is loose feeling at some points and tight at others. I did the 15 minute trick and have had no problems so far. As soon as I bump the starter the belt tightens back up.

 

[NOSLO2PT0]

NOW my huge problem is at 63 miles on the motor, i popped hood to check oil as always before i drive and touched my tbelt which had over an INCH of play between sprockets. .

It's impossible to have an INCH of play in the timing belt. Only way that happens is if the belt completely comes off one of the pulleys. Sounds like your tensioner pulley came loose. Verify all of your pulleys are tightened to spec, the gap on the auto tensioner is set correctly, set the #1 piston to TDC, and take pics of the timing marks for us.

 

[DSMopar]

1. You don't 'break' in roller cams... that's for flat tappet cams only

2. Your belt (no matter how tight) is probably rubbing on your oil pan bolts if you put ones in that are too long.

3. Check your auto-tensioner gap, probably should set it yourself I don't trust shops.

 

[sbiggi]

1. You don't 'break' in roller cams... that's for flat tappet cams only

So what does it mean when the cam sheet says to run the motor at 2500 rpm for 20 minutes for breakin?

 

[BigBeans]

Take a video? That means running the engine in a compromised state an risking a major failure. Don't take a video, take it apart.

There are a million DIYs on how to do timing belts, including this one on youtube:

YouTube - 6-Bolt Mitsubishi Timing Belt Replacement

 

[DSMopar]

So what does it mean when the cam sheet says to run the motor at 2500 rpm for 20 minutes for breakin?

Probably a generic instruction set they tossed in... again it doesn't apply to cams with roller components.

 

[thomcasey]

Also, check the oil-pump pulley. My son had just over 50 miles on his complete rebuild when he saw the wear. He started it to see where it was rubbing and it quit running. Pump failed on the inside as pulley loosened on the outside. Spun two bearings, had to have the crank turned.

 

[bmoha2]

Don't mean to Jack your thread. Man I tell you what that's a great timing belt replacement vid! Thanks for posting that. It answered quite a few questions I have.

 

[ill-eagle]

Well sorry I haven't responded been busy. Tore it all down and tensioner had failed, i could move tensioner in and out all the way by gently tugging on the belt. was not like this at install. Mitsubishi ordered me another free of charge. tbelt was NOT rubbing on bolts it was rubbing on the lower engine cover in 3 places where i could see blue paint from where my greddy tbelt rubbed off. . . pita i just want to drive this car already