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The Official "What's this DSM worth?" Thread

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can you tell me why you would not make payments? im trying to get feedback thats why im asking. should i stick with my tsi and just build that up as much as i can and try and keep it as a dd? is the 420 turbo a sufficient motor? does it hold up well?
 
Well, long story short, I had to sell the evolution due to financial reasons.
I picked up a jeep and now need something with some speed.
There is a guy selling an eagle talon, TSI, AWD. He claims it ran a 11.5 at 127mph.
He is askign 4500 or best offer. After reading the following do you guys think

A) it is as quick as he says (I can't gauge off of driving it...sorry)
B) what should I offer

So here is what it has:

1992 Eagle talon TSI AWD with 98K on body

6 Bolt 4g63t Block- was bored .30 over and honed, ross forged pistons 1g pin 8.5cr 85.5CR 85.5 +.020 99811. Reaped all head and main bolt holes, hot tanked block, 1G Big Rods magnafluxed, ARP head studs with Cometic head gasket. Head- professionaly done, fully ported, 4 angle valve on intake and exhaust, crower titanium springs and retainers, Fidenza cam gears, new oil pump case and new oil jet valves/nozzles. Fuel- 660 injectors, 255 walbro. Turbo- Big 20g TD06 - tial 40mm wastegate, V.P. 02 sensor housing, Front mount intercooler

Transmission- Brand new from dealership along with transfercase, act 2600 clutch with act billet flywheel, 4 gear center differential with impo short shifter.

Management- MAFT pro with 3'' GM MAF sensor, greddy boost controller type r, tmo eprom ecu chip (stage 3 with extras).

Exhaust- bushur full race 3'' exhaust with Buschur 3'' mandrel bent downpipe.

The engine is also alcohol injected using a surflow pump.

Suspension- Eibach pro-kit front and rear with Tokiko struts in the rear and stock struts in the front

THANKS GUYS
 
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not yet. Was discussing a price with the guy and wanted to know what you guys thought before I went to look. Do you think it could be that quick.

I am not familiar with 1st gens at all.
 
yeah it could def be that quick...keep talking price, remember cash talks, and i would drive it, make sure it runs good, isnt leaking anything, doesnt make weird noises...etc etc...also see if he has any papers or receipts for the work.
 
thanks guys. what do you think is fair to offer in all honesty if everything is good on it. He is flexible at 4500.
I know KBB has it around 1600 - 1900 in good condition for this year, obviously without any modifications.

So I really don't know what a fair street value price to offer him would be
 
Doesn't seem like a bad price to me. Only real way to say though would be to see the car in person. Market in that area will really dictate the value of the car.
 
offer him 3800 for it if he says no then offer 4000 but after that i wouldnt get it there is no way i would ever pay over 4000 for a 1G

i payed 800 for mine

and my friend with a BONE stock laser payed 3000 for his
 
offer him 3800 for it if he says no then offer 4000 but after that i wouldnt get it there is no way i would ever pay over 4000 for a 1G

i payed 800 for mine

and my friend with a BONE stock laser payed 3000 for his

LOL I think that is my delay. Despite him having a lot done to it, I still see it as a 1G and wonder is it worth paying so much for. I see bone stock ones around here for 1500 - 2500 with 100K or less on them.
 
6 Bolt 4g63t Block- was bored .30 over and honed, ross forged pistons 1g pin 8.5cr 85.5CR 85.5 +.020 99811.

eh. Bored .030" over, but has 85.5 + .020"

I guess I dont understand.

.030 is 85.75 (roughly). So I dont get why he then states 85.5 + .020 (which if he was saying 85.5mm plus .020" inches would be 86mm (roughly))
 
Also he has a walbro 255 without a fpr thats a pretty newbie esk mistake(you overrun the stock fpr with a 255)... Which makes me wonder if he had the block built or if he built it himself. If he had someone else do it then theres a chance that things were installed incorrectly or he cut corners etc etc. Do all of the checks compression leakdown (if you can). Shake the wheel to test for wheel bearings i mean take a good hour and inspect everything you can think of. A few things in the add dont really add up mentioned in the post above mine.

If EVERYTHING is perfect and i do mean everything then i would offer 3800 and go up to 4. If he says no at 4 then walk away and come back in a week with the same offer rinse and repeat. Eventually he will get tired of trying to sell it at 4.5k and go down to 4.
 
eh. Bored .030" over, but has 85.5 + .020"

I guess I dont understand.

.030 is 85.75 (roughly). So I dont get why he then states 85.5 + .020 (which if he was saying 85.5mm plus .020" inches would be 86mm (roughly))

I have little to no familiarity understanding this thus why I posted. Was hoping I could get some elaboration on all that is done.
 
oh and btw with the amount of cash hes dropped into it its worth a bit more than 5k. The new tranny alone is 2000+ and he had the engine done! So i think if you can get it for 4 then you are getting a deal.
 
You don't over run the stock fpr with a 255 in a 1g. It sounds like a good deal. I almost bought a low 11 second one for 5500 a little bit ago. It looks real clean with some decent mods and plenty of bolts ons that you could do. I'd tell him 4000 firm is what you'll pay. Go look at it, drive it, compression test it. Do all the basics when looking to buy a car. Ask lots of questions also.
 
offer him 3800 for it if he says no then offer 4000 but after that i wouldnt get it there is no way i would ever pay over 4000 for a 1G

i payed 800 for mine

and my friend with a BONE stock laser payed 3000 for his

I see you payed $800 for yours, no wonder its on jack stands :p

Your friend bough a stock laser for $3,000 but nobody really likes the body style of a laser(bumpers, tails) Also, the mods done on this car are worth quite a bit more than a stock laser. Just making some obvious points that it is a damn good deal for him if everything check out okay.
 
Uhhh yes you do, if you have a thread that shows otherwise i would love to see it. If not ill post info on how a 255 will overrun ANY stock fpr if its desired. Im not saying it wont take a while but it will.



You don't over run the stock fpr with a 255 in a 1g. It sounds like a good deal. I almost bought a low 11 second one for 5500 a little bit ago. It looks real clean with some decent mods and plenty of bolts ons that you could do. I'd tell him 4000 firm is what you'll pay. Go look at it, drive it, compression test it. Do all the basics when looking to buy a car. Ask lots of questions also.
 
What was the point of that link? It had nothing to do with it except a guy being worried about it being overrun and obviously he knew nothing because he wanted to bump his pressure up 10psi.

I have plenty of friends running a 255 with the stock fpr and none have ever had any problems. They have a pressure gauge off the rail and it stays damn close to 38psi. Guess you're one of the unlucky DSM'ers. ;)
 
What was the point of that link? It had nothing to do with it except a guy being worried about it being overrun and obviously he knew nothing because he wanted to bump his pressure up 10psi.

I have plenty of friends running a 255 with the stock fpr and none have ever had any problems. They have a pressure gauge off the rail and it stays damn close to 38psi. Guess you're one of the unlucky DSM'ers. ;)

Agreed! I had a 255 in my 1g and had no problems at all with stock FPR. He should be fine like that.
 
He just got pretty rude with me. I asked him if he had receipts for the transmission, who did the engine rebuild, if it was state inspected, and a few other things and he told em forget it...he was gonna stay firm at 5K which I know he won't get...not around here at least.

Oh yeah, and I asked about his claim of 11.5 at 127 and he said it happened, but he doesn't have a slip. Track didn't give it to him. Something doesn't sound right now........
 
Hi eveyone just wanted to get some feedback from this ad ...i am really thinking about swapping my gst's head onto this car ...is this car a good buy and if so anything to look for or beware of? Just want to hear some advice...
Thanks
Heres the exact post:

"SHE IS AN AWD TURBO BEAST. JUST REBUILT THE ENGINE. 109,XXX ON THE ODOMETER.
>
>
>
ENGINE MODS:
.30 BORED ROSS RACING PISTONS
EAGLE RODS
ACL MAIN AND ROD RACING BEARINGS.
COMETICS HEAD GASKET
!!NEW!! WATER PUMP
!!NEW!! OIL PUMP
ALL NEW FELPRO GASKETS.
NEW RADIATOR HOSES
<
FUEL AND INDUCITON:
"FRANKENSTEIN TUBRO" .57 TRIM .68 A/R EVO III 16G HOUSING
255 WALBRO HP FUEL PUMP
650CC INJECTORS
APEXI SAFC II CONTROLLER
MANUAL BOOST CONTROLLER
CUSTOM 3 INCH COLD AIR INTAKE
SPEARCO FMIC AND FULL 2.5 INCH PIPING
2G PORTED EXHAUST MANIFOLD

INTERIOR:
2 GAUGE POD
W/ BOOST AND A/F RATIO
AUTOMETER TACH W/ YELLOW SHIFT LIGHT.
PIONEER 8500MP HEAD UNIT

DRIVETRAIN:
4 INCH LSD DIFFERENTIAL
CUSTOM 2800 ACT STAGE 3 CLUTCH
FAIRLY NEW TRANNY----- DOES NOT GRIND ANY KEYS... SHIFTS SMOOTH AND FAST...
!!NEW!! CLUTCH SLAVE CYLINDER

BRAKES:
!!NEW!! PADS AND CROSS DRILLED AND SLOTTED ROTORS.

EXTERIOR
ID SAY NORMAL WEAR AND TEAR FOR AN 18 YEAR OLD CAR. BUT OTHER THEN THAT IT DRIVES GREAT

EVERYTHING IS BRAND NEW WITH LESS THEN 100 MILES ON IT. I JUST GOT DONE BUILDING IT AND BOUGHT A NEW CAR IN THE MEAN TIME AND REALIZED I WANNA FOCUS ON MAKING THAT ONE A LITTLE FASTER AND RIGHT NOW I DONT HAVE THE TIME OR SPACE FOR 2 CARS.

DOWN SIDES:
PAINT ISNT PERFECT
NEEDS AN EXHAUST(RUNNING ON OPEN DOWN PIPE FOR THE TIME BEING)
THE E-BRAKE WAS DICONNECTED
SHE NEEDS A NEW HEAD. CURRENT ONE HAS A CRACK!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!THE REAR MAIN SEAL WAS JUST REPLACED...... BRAND NEW NO LEAK NOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!.
IM NOT TRYING TO RIP ANY BODY OFF THIS CAR IS VERY SICK AND I REALLY DONT WANNA GET RID OF IT. I HAVE PUT ALOT OF MONEY INTO IT AND I KNO THERE IS NO WAY THAT I CAN GET BACK WHAT I PUT INTO IT SO WHOEVER PICKS THIS UP IS VERY LUCKY. SO LET ME KNOW IF YOU ARE INTERESTED AND WE CAN ARRANGE FOR A TEST DRIVE OR SOMETHING. "

Oh and for only $1500
 
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