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The Official "What's this DSM worth?" Thread

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I would buy it. See if you can take it to a mechanic first to get an estimate all that needs done too it.

What model is it?
 
From the sound of it, its either a GS or an RS. If this is the case why is there a gauge pod on it unless he turbo'd it? To be honest it sounds like it is in rough shape to me. You will be spending $1,500-$2000+ to get it back to normal looking condition ("de-riced"). New fenders, new hood, paint, new springs and probably shocks, change that blue interior to (black, tan, or grey), replace altezzas depending on what they look like, Then if you want some performance you will need to go turbo or N2O, and judging by the sound of how this car looks I'm sure the motor has been beat on so it will need a rebuild before you add either. Factor in about $800 for a stock rebuild, or $1,400 or so for a forged rebuild. Then add $3,000+ for a turbo set-up or $600 for N2O.

Personally I would pass or offer him like $1,000 maximum. I would only buy a 2gnt if it was already in good cosmetic condition (which this car sounds like it is not.) That way you minimize cost when it comes to project status and only need to spend your money on the go fast things.
 
From the sound of it, its either a GS or an RS. If this is the case why is there a gauge pod on it unless he turbo'd it? To be honest it sounds like it is in rough shape to me. You will be spending $1,500-$2000+ to get it back to normal looking condition ("de-riced"). New fenders, new hood, paint, new springs and probably shocks, change that blue interior to (black, tan, or grey), replace altezzas depending on what they look like, Then if you want some performance you will need to go turbo or N2O, and judging by the sound of how this car looks I'm sure the motor has been beat on so it will need a rebuild before you add either. Factor in about $800 for a stock rebuild, or $1,400 or so for a forged rebuild. Then add $3,000+ for a turbo set-up or $600 for N2O.

Personally I would pass or offer him like $1,000 maximum. I would only buy a 2gnt if it was already in good cosmetic condition (which this car sounds like it is not.) That way you minimize cost when it comes to project status and only need to spend your money on the go fast things.

It sounds like a RS, thats the trim that has mechanical windows, ("crank windows").
But, I definatley agree with everything RedGs said.
 
Looks like you bought the car. I would have got a receipt on the trans and clutch.

Very good point to bring up. When I buy a used car and they list off all of the "new" or "replaced" items I always ask for reciepts. Otherwise just assume that they didn't fix or replace what they said they did. Remember most people are just trying to sell their car and will say anything to make it sound better than it is.

Also I didn't mention the timing belt, but if you aren't very mechanically inclined you will have to pay someone a few hundred dollars to change it. Mostly because I doubt it has been changed in a while and for peace of mind should be changed. You'll want the T-Belt kit with all the pulleys and probably want to replace the water pump since you have everything off. If you do it yourself you can save a lot of money but plan still on about $200 in parts.
 
You said the car shook while driving. Did you do a compression test, or check out the engine?
 
i like how your thinking. however, in all honesty im not looking to go that crazy on speed so much. i would like to do typical bolt ons and dress it up a bit tho. i live on my own so putting that much cash into a car isnt all that easy. on the other hand, one of my buddies is a tech and helps me out with prices and my other buddies works a advanced auto os i can get parts pretty cheap to.

i DO like the suggestion to check on reciepts tho, very good idea. i didnt think of that. i was gonna be generous considering the interior of the cars in pretty good shape and offer 1200. i would say if he cant furbish the reciepts ill just tell em no more than a G for the car.

my plans for the car to get it running ok was to take it to my tech and have em check it out to see what this things gonna run me b4 i buy it. if its not bad... then its a definate go :thumb:. it is a NT. iirc the gauges were oil press and im not sure what else. there is a CEL but just from looking at it theres no primary o2 (if there is 2 o2's that is).

as far as looks i wanna do the 99 front end, rear bumper and sides, carbon hood/hatch/rudora wing, new supension set up, CAI, header, official cat back, and if i can find it black interior. i kinda like the wheels that are i think 16"s that look like theyre 6 spoke but a split 6 spoke. i think theyre OE eclipse wheels, and paint em white. itll take some time but thats my plan. and depending on how things go maybe a new motor with a rebuild

...oh , and all red tails
 
Ok. Im not new to DSM's. I had a non turbo for 3.5 years and a turbo for just over a year so I have had an Eclipse for awhile. I had to sell my prized 98 turbo due to money issues. Now that I have a job that pays well again I have been looking for a stock 97-99 GSX. I found one that has 103k miles on it. There are a few issues that I wanted to ask about as I have been out of the game for quite awhile (almost a year) and have lost my touch when it comes to Eclipse info for the most part.

The car is $8950. I think thats too much even though it bluebooks for a dealer at $8800. I sold my GS-T for $7000. That had a lot of engine and other stuff done to it. This price seems high for the mileage.

One thing I noticed was when I first started it it had idle surge. It went from like 600 - 1500 RPM. The dealer said maybe it was because it was cold out. HA yeah right. I have researched this topic before as my old 98 GS-T on the BISS screw. Just wondering if this would be the same issue or not?

The car really nice. Boosted great. Like I said it was bone stock. All it has is white face gauges. I have been looking for a car like this for awhile because I can make it my own project. Im just kind of leary to buy it because I have been burned with bad cars in the past.

Anyone have any advice on whether or not I should buy it? Im thinking of shooting the guy a low offer like $7k just to see where hes at and take it from there. Please any ideas are welcome.
 
I would shoot an offer a little lower. When i bought my gsx they wanted 7900 for it. I had the cash money so i was like ### about 7 cash and he took it. Cash talks alot =]. I dont think i would dish out 9 grand for it. The surge idling now on the other hand, could be almost anything. I would compression test it, check for blowby, everything. Look over the car as best as you can. Good luck with it =]
 
Well I dont have the cash right now. I want to finance it for like 3 years and then pay it off when I have the money.

Would it be possible for me to get my mechanic that I always go to to check it out. I dont know if I trust the dealership as they can sometimes be shady about used cars. I dont really know if dealerships do that these days.
 
That seems high. People sell 6 bolt swapped modded 2g's for that much. I would compression test, leakdown test, check the coolant overflow for oil, check the balljoints, wheel bearings, cv boots, go over the car really well. Is it auto or stick? If it's stick, with that many miles, who knows how much life the clutch has left. Who knows if the timing belt has been changed. I'm not sure how much of the work you do yourself but timing belts will run you around 700+ I've heard to get done. I don't think a clutch would be that much to get done at a shop, maybe 500? Not sure, I do all my own work. If he knows nothing about these cars, maybe that could be a couple things you could tell them to get the price down. Being an un-modded 97-99 7-bolt, I would say crankwalk would be unlikely to happen.
 
That seems high. People sell 6 bolt swapped modded 2g's for that much. I would compression test, leakdown test, check the coolant overflow for oil, check the balljoints, wheel bearings, cv boots, go over the car really well. Is it auto or stick? If it's stick, with that many miles, who knows how much life the clutch has left. Who knows if the timing belt has been changed. I'm not sure how much of the work you do yourself but timing belts will run you around 700+ I've heard to get done. I don't think a clutch would be that much to get done at a shop, maybe 500? Not sure, I do all my own work. If he knows nothing about these cars, maybe that could be a couple things you could tell them to get the price down. Being an un-modded 97-99 7-bolt, I would say crankwalk would be unlikely to happen.

I took a peak at the timing belt. It looked brand new. Im fairly stupid when it comes to everything you wanted me to check. This car is at a dealership so I dont think I can run any compression tests on it. Do you think the dealership could though? The clutch felt strong, turbo felt strong.
 
if you really wanted it then the dealer can make that arrangement, assuming that you are the only person that have looked at that car.
 
I'd take it to a mechanic. A dealer will tell you anything to make a sale. Just because the belt looks new, doesn't mean it is. And who knows if they threw on a t-belt and not a balance shaft belt with all new pulleys. Unless they can tell you exactly how long ago it was changed, one of the first things to do on these cars when you buy one, is change the belts or change the t-belt and eliminate the balbnce shaft belt. Sure the clutch holds now, but who knows for how long. I'm not trying to scare you, I'm just trying to put myself in your shoes and think of things I'd tell the dealer to chew them down. Shaft play on the turbo is another thing to check. Check for rust on the shock towers. Tire wear, brake pad life left.
 
NINE GRAND bone stock WTF. Don't get me wrong, if i wanted a DSM i would want it stock, but 9k is a little steep. Anyway, the problem with a dealership is they will tell you anything to get that car off their lot. Sure the clutch may feel "strong" now but i had a buddy buy an IS300 with a "strong clutch" and it burnt out 2 months later (btw it only 24k miles on clutch)... You need to do some serious testing if you are going to throw down half a new car on a 10 year old car with over a hundred thousand miles on it... I have a weak spot for DSM's, but just make sure you're getting all the car you're paying for... Depending on ## age (if your 25 you can take the car out alone), if you can take it alone, do a compression test and while the intake is off check out shaft play... Another problem you run into is the dealership knows as much about the car as you do... All im saying is be careful. Plus 9 grand, please, you better get him to lower it. Bottom line, make sure you do some serious inspections before you throw alot of money on a 10 year old car...

BTW: i bought my Dsm with 166k miles on it w/ a brand new clutch, tranny, and rebuit engine for 3grand and im quite content with my ride. :sneaky:
 
My 2nd thread in two days but after doing from research i feel like ive been ripped off, heres the story 3 weeks ago i bought a 95 talon tsi, 121k, clean title paid $4k for it, the head was taken to a machine shop have the receipts and he also claimed he checked in the block no slips on that, but he did replace the piston rings with nippons and the main and rod bearings with acl he claimed i also have the packages for them but idk, he built the engine but never drove it he told me the timing was off a tooth i got that checked and timing was right idk about that either but he gave me the receipts for most of new things put in he lost some of the others but i got the price on them, it has a new big 16g turbo i can go on but its a long list of mods, and supporting mods include cometic HG and arp studs, balance shaft removal, from the receipts they add up to what i spent on the car along with checking the prices on the other new parts which didnt have receipts, but the thing is the car just sitting in my driveway, i start it up and the engine vibrates like crazy, i take off the oil cap while its running and it sounds like the cams are grinding and smoke is coming out ive been searching but its eating my insides because mostly i live with non tuners and im starting to listen to them i mean i drove a 95 bmw 325i and that car wasnt cheap or easy to fix which is why im getting bashed because i went from a bmw to a dsm but i like the dsm and am so anxious to get it running right now i know its needs tuning and i drove it 10mins to get it home but ive been told im losing major weight because i keep thinking about

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Dude. Periods and paragraphs. That is painful to read.

Anyways, take it to a trusted mechanic if you don't know enough and have them look at it.
 
Yeah that seems high to me too I bought my 98 gsx with 96000 for 4900 with documentation and all stock except a boost gauge granted it is an auto. You might be able to find a better deal, but the gsx models are getting harder to find stock also.
 
I wouldn't jump to the conclusion that you got ripped of yet, but you should take the car to a mechanic if you don't know whats wrong with it. I see that you are in buffalo, check out wnydsm.org and post up on there. There are alot of dsm owners that are local, knowledgeable and very friendly.
 
You say there is smoke coming out, but from where and what color?
Thats a tough call man, I feel your pain. It's a bummer to spend money on something thats not working correctly. Is the seller willing to work with you at all? Maybe you can bring it to the shop where the mods were done.

Also if it was rebuilt but never driven isn't there a break in period?
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...break-breaking-motor-break-merged-10-6-a.html
 
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