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Unless you have more than $1000 worth of work to be done to the car i would say you got a solid car. You need explain the smoking problem a little more in order for us to help. Ex: "I have smoke coming from my car to, whats wrong with my car (TOO VAGUE)?" Let us know where the smoke is coming from, what color it is, and when does it smoke?
 
Sorry guys i know that was tough but my head is gonna blow off thats why, my mechanic told me the engine was fine did a compression test, but he doesnt know much about dsms and is a big block blower motor type. Well the seller worked with me for about a week saying it was the cam timing but he did most of the work. Ive driven the car for 10 minutes from the shop to my house drove fine but i had the stock injectors in there. I know when shifting black smoke comes out the exhaust(boost leak) and its running rich also. When i take off the oil cap while its running, it looks like the cams are about to jump out, and i hear a grinding sound, while the oil cap off and the engine running light smoke pours out not crazy but you can see it i appreciate it guys
 
If it's grinding and smoke is coming out of the oil cap, I wouldn't drive the car. I would take off the valve cover and check all of the cam lobes and make sure the cam caps are on tight and on correctly.
 
FLASH1970 said:
I'd take it to a mechanic. A dealer will tell you anything to make a sale. Just because the belt looks new, doesn't mean it is. And who knows if they threw on a t-belt and not a balance shaft belt with all new pulleys. Unless they can tell you exactly how long ago it was changed, one of the first things to do on these cars when you buy one, is change the belts or change the t-belt and eliminate the balance shaft belt. Sure the clutch holds now, but who knows for how long. I'm not trying to scare you, I'm just trying to put myself in your shoes and think of things I'd tell the dealer to chew them down. Shaft play on the turbo is another thing to check. Check for rust on the shock towers. Tire wear, brake pad life left.
Click to expand...

I did notice that the rotors had some rust on them. Not sure how long the car was sitting outside. I dont know, im still undecided. I dont wanna pay more than 7k for it. So I guess Ill go from there and see what they say. Tires were ok they would probably need to be replaced next year sometime. Do you think the dealership would let me take the air intake off to check for shaft play? The caliper looked rusty which I thought was weird. If I go in again to look at it these are points I will bring up.
 
Looks like a decent deal, plenty of mods and aftermarket, and a straight 2g body, hell I like it.

You bought a project car, get ready to work on it.
 
you said it shakes bad on start up?. the last time i had a dsm with this problem the goofball who did the timming belt change for the poor girl had the balance shafts 180'out.:notgood: check your time marks. then your electrical timmin.:talon:
 
do you have fpr? and whats the car have for tunning besides the maft? are the dials on the maft correct? as for as the cams go take the cover off and see if you see anything
 
i remember seeing this car on craigslist a while back...looked like it had a decent amount of work done to it...i was going to check it out but never did.

i dont think it was a bad deal, take what everyone is saying and do what is told.

welcome to the club. :thumb:
 
nyTalonTsi said:
Sorry guys i know that was tough but my head is gonna blow off thats why, my mechanic told me the engine was fine did a compression test, but he doesnt know much about dsms and is a big block blower motor type. Well the seller worked with me for about a week saying it was the cam timing but he did most of the work. Ive driven the car for 10 minutes from the shop to my house drove fine but i had the stock injectors in there. I know when shifting black smoke comes out the exhaust(boost leak) and its running rich also. When i take off the oil cap while its running, it looks like the cams are about to jump out, and i hear a grinding sound, while the oil cap off and the engine running light smoke pours out not crazy but you can see it i appreciate it guys
Click to expand...

It smokes when you let off because the blow-off-valve (BOV) is vented to the atmosphere. You need to get a BOV that can be recirculated, meaning it has a hose going back to the air intake right between the turbo and mas airflow sensor (MAS). The BOV dumping the air out throws off the airflow reading by the MAS and the computer (ECU) has the injectors dump in too much fuel since it thinks there is more air going in than there really is.

Normally you will hear a noise if you take the oil cap off. I would not call it a grinding noise, but I'm not sure how to describe it.

You need to get someone that knows DSMs to look at the car to get any issues figured out. Someone who hasn't messed with a DSM before probably won't be able to help you much.
 
Looking to sell my Eclipse GST. Don't know what it's worth.

96 GST. Has like 155k or so on it but many mands mods and new engine and all.
Mods:

short shifter, 3" metal intake piping and filter , 10.5 mm spark plug wires, 1g bov, boost gauge, dual gauge console bezel, 3" ss catback exhaust, 2gb front end conversion, joe p mbc, evo3 ported manifold, walbro 190 pump rewired, big 16g turbo(ported), 3" megan racing downpipe, SSAC fmic, 2.5" ss o2 housing,

rebuilt 6 bolt block. 1g big rods, 2g pistons, arp head studs, prothane motor mounts, balance shafts removed, bored over. Built 7 bolt head with 5 angle valve job, BC 272 camshafts, skunk2 adjustable cam gears, BC valve springs, mitsu performance retainers, 3g lifters.

ACT 2100 clutch, Fidanza 8lb flywheel.

tokico adjustable shocks, brembo slotted rotors, 16 inch custom rims, front and rear strut tower bar.

Paint is pretty messed up. Looks not bad from 10 feet away or so, but up close it needs work. Engine built by Overbore(overbore.com)
Installed at Dogbox Racing in NJ.

Currently has an idling issue. It seems like the ISC just needs to be re set or replaced. Other than that it seems to run real nice. Has the misfire code from the 6 bolt swap which is normal. Would need a tuning device and injectors to really get the power out of this. I have never had it boosting over 14 psi as I am on stock injectors. I have receipts for everything purchased and everything has been professionally installed.
AC doesn't work, everything else does work.

-
 
Guys i appreciate the help. Thats the thing i was told by the seller the timing was off. My mechanic told me it wasn't off but i kept it in my brain that he doesn't know much about imports. Im thinking its the timing. Im not good with timing so im not going to mess with it. Looking for a dsmer locally now. Yup thats right i found it on craigslist. Its def a project for me.
 
I have found a 1999 GS-T with some modfications (not sure what) and has just slightly under 100,000 miles for 5,000 is this a good deal the car is in excellent condition. I looked at kelly blue book and for this car in excellent condition it is worth 6000. any help would be apprciated
 
There are many factors that play into whether the car is worth it or not. First are the major factors like the clutch, transmission, & engine mileage/ condition. Then you need to look at the smaller things like tire wear, belts (especially timing), and general condition of the car. Lastly you should ###### look at shaft play on the turbo and any leaks the car has.

When you find out the true condition of the car, then you can judge whether the car is worth it or not.
 
I have a co-worker that is selling his 92 Eagle Talon TSi AWD. He estimates that it has around 270k miles on it. He has never dragged or pushed the car to its limits. He had the top block acid dipped about 50k miles or so ago. All timing belts have been changed as well as all valves. He also has brand new tires and cv axles on the car. He needs to get rid of it ASAP and I offered him $250 bucks for it and I think he is going to take it. I am going out to look at the car some time next week. I have been doing some research on these cars and I was wondering if anybody knew any trouble spots that I need to look at. i will be able to jack the car up if I need to get under it. I'm not the best mechanic but I do know my way around a car.

He says that the car doesn't run very well at idle and will shut off if not kept running (could this be fuel pump or vaccuum lines?) and that he hears a clicking noise when he is sitting in the car. He swears it is coming from the ECU. If he disconnects the battery, when the car cranks up the next day it runs perfect, but after that it goes back to rough if you crank it again. Any ideas on that?

Thanks for your help if you give any, and please don't post up "SEARCH SEARCH SEARCH" because I work 12 hour days this month and I don't have a ton of time.
 
If the tires are new, those alone are worth almost $250. If you have money, go for it and mess around with it in the next few months.

What is the car's history? Usually, after 270k miles, it's been in at least 1 accident of some sort.

The poor idle usually isn't too hard of a problem to diagnose and fix. Try to make a boost leak tester and pressure test the intake system. You might find the problem there.

If you have the time to put into it, you might easily have a decent car for $250.
 
for $250... give me two..

thats a good deal, now with the motor, you want to check the turbo pressure and the ECU.
probably it will be the ecu.
 
I would buy it to and as far as that pulling out the battery and it works better that might have something to do with long term and short term fuel trims and octane reset.

It's probably going to have some issues in the fuel system. Has he replaced the fuel filter, pump, injectors, ever???

Also if it has ECU problems just send it to Steve from Chicago he can take a look at it. and who cares if it has a few problems?? for 250 just take out the bad crap and put in the good upgrade parts!!!

happy DSMing
 
I haven't seen the car...it is from Delaware but he says there is no rust. He is renovating the house and wont be able to show it till next week sometime. He has replaced almost the whole engine at one time or another. The injectors aren't new, but I asked him if they were clicking and he said no that wasn't what was making the noise because they are fairly new. Also the water pump, alternator, whole top end, and all the other belts have been replaced, but the car must have a catback system installed on it due to a huge exhaust whole (tennis ball sized). I know it will be awhile but I will post pics of it up esp if I get the damn thing.

It has been wrecked once, but was repaired and no longer has any damage from that wreck.

Also I have a new update, I talked to a friend who thinks the guy won't go below 300-400, which is still a good deal I think.
 
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