The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Synthetic Oil, fact or fiction?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

You are a dealer now. You have a vested interest in seeing the product do well in comparison tests. I'm sure you are doing this out of the goodness of your heart, but those of us that are more cynical, would question a persons motives for giving what APPEARS to be an unbiased review, and then finding out that this unbiased review was done by someone who is a dealer. Sure you can proclaim that you werent a dealer yet etc. But if I read that review for the first time, like I just did a few minutes ago, and then found out you were a dealer, I would think it looked odd to NOT mention your current relationship with the company. It just doesnt look as legit, as it would if you just simply added that one statement into your review. "After this review, I was such a believer in Amsoils effectiveness, that I decided to become a dealer." That doesnt seem to hard does it?

Brad

Originally posted by Keaka26
make note of what? that i give discounts or that i am a dealer? When i wrote that comparison, i was not a dealer. I'm a dealer NOW because i really like their oil and id like to share the goodness with my friends.
 
i understand what you're saying now. I will see what i can do about editing the page....Anyways, like I was saying, I, as well as all the members on my team all use Amsoil and i noticed that locally (in san jose) there are only like 2 places that i know of that sell Amsoil, at outrageous prices might i add. Thats why Im becoming/became (waiting for some stuff in the mail) a dealer. Any of the #'s that i posted in my comparison can be verified at each companies respective websites, which i conveniently linked on the bottom of the page. Numbers dont lie, and neither do I....Hey, i rhyme!

Anyways, I've been in Sales all my life, including Cellular, pagers, sunglasses, cars, books, and shoes! Ive always had opportunities to make more commission or pay by selling things that i dont believe in, but i will ALWAYS give the customer my honest opinion, which is why i strive to only sell things i, myself, believe in and support fully. (Amsoil in this case.)

It does not feel good to sell someone a piece of SH*T and have them come back and say, "how could you tell me this was great and lie to me to my face?" with that said, you can all make your judgement.
 
Its nice to sell a product you firmly believe in, I can completely relate to that. And I did see that you posted links to all of the manufacturers sites to allow for independent verification. To help educate people, you might want to add these links as well:

http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/oil_filter_study/

http://www.atis.net/oil_faq.html

I have been using Mobil 1 for years in all my cars and bikes, with good luck. But much of that was on the old formulation that was more synthetic than it is now. I may switch to something else, just because I dont like paying the synthetic premium for non synthetic. AMSOIL does look like its worth checking out.

Brad

Originally posted by Keaka26
[B
It does not feel good to sell someone a piece of SH*T and have them come back and say, "how could you tell me this was great and lie to me to my face?" with that said, you can all make your judgement. [/B]
 
You'll never properly seat your rings if you use any synthetic during break in.
Bearing wear is BS, you don't take it easy on the car for "bearing wear". If your bearings are touching the crank and actually wearing you've got some serious issues and a dumbass machinist. Bearings do wear extremely slowly over time as the block is heat cycled and relaxes, but not during break in and not on a seasoned block.
On the bottom end of a properly built engine the only thing you are truely breaking in is the rings.
Everyone seems to forget about cylinder heads. Cam and valve train design play a large roll in engine break in. If your cams act directly on a tappet, with no roller, you will have longer break in period and should not go WOT for at least 1k. We don't, our cams act on a roller rocker arm. The lobes do not wear that much (well unless you have old webcams :p), if you are using old cams nothing at all has to be done to break them in. Due to our valve train you do not need an excessivly long break in period like some engines.
Beware if you have new valve springs that they shed large amounts of very small metal particles that will wear on everything. Change your oil very frequently when using new valve springs.

For oil use a regular SAE 30 oil, do NOT use oils with ANY zinc (anti scuffing) as this will hamper ring seating.

Here's how I break in my engines:
1. Start vehicle on 4 jack stands, put in first gear and allow wheels to spin (this a tranny issue and has nothing to do with the engine break in), allow car to come up to full operating temp (let the fans kick in a couple times), then set timing and idle rpm. Shut off, change oil and filter.

*if you have new parts, engine mods, etc... be extremly careful during this step, WATCH for knock, don't do WOT pulls unless all variables are the same as they were before the rebuild*
2. Start vehicle and allow to come up operating temp. Drive out to a open area. Starting at 2-2.5k in third gear pull up to around 6k, then let off and allow the car to coast back down to around 2-2.5k, repeat. I do three or four pulls. Then drive the car around at low load for about 50 miles. Drain oil and change filter.

3. Drive at moderate throtle for 500 miles, change to your synthetic of choice, and go beat the snot out of it. If using new valve springs I change the oil at 100 miles and 250 miles also.

Why apply load that early in the engines life? Combustion chamber pressure pushes rings into the cylinder wall, the normal radial tension of rings is not great enough to fully seat the rings.

The 2G piston/6bolt motor I build for a friend a little over a year ago used this break in procedure. It has 15k on it now, runs great, and has 190psi compression across the board. As always though YMMV.
 
Dans: i updated the comparison. Should be uploaded sometime tomorrow...i sent it to the team webmaster...
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top