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10w 60 Full Synthetic Castrol?!?!?

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Kingdom

20+ Year Contributor
366
0
Jul 19, 2002
Adliya, Bahrain
I went to the local BMW dealership and they have all these glass windows that give you a nice view of the garage while the cars are being serviced.

Well they had an M5 on the lift and they were dropping the oil, and I see this nice looking oil bottle on the trolly and about to be used on the M5.

I went to have a look and its 10W-60 full synthetic and made by castrol. Well it looked very hardcore and pricey.

you can find it on this website.
http://www.castrol.com.au/index_flash.html

now what do the numbers mean?? the 10 and w and 60?

and how come this oil is only listed in foriegn websites, I cant seem to find it in the North American castrol website.

Oh, they said if this oil is not used then the warranty is voided. This only applies to the new M3 and M5.

You think I should use it on my car or is it too hardcore, cause they stopped making 15-50 mobil one and I am not too comfortable with 10-40 in this extreme heat.
 
Didn't know they stopped making Mobile 15W-50. I would go w/ the 15W-60 oil, it can't hurt our engines, especially in hot weather and high horsepower engines.
 
Damn 15W50 is what I run all the time. I got a bottle at our parts store the other day no problem. I better call Mobil 1 to find out if they are really cancelling that run. If so then I'm gonna buy like 10 bottles before they do, LOL. Should last me 3 years or so. I only change my oil 3-4 times a year...
 
Originally posted by DSMJim
If so then I'm gonna buy like 10 bottles before they do, LOL. Should last me 3 years or so. I only change my oil 3-4 times a year...

Good math!

5 bottles per oil change, 3 times a year, is 15 bottles per year. That means those ten bottles would last you like....9 months....not 3 years.
 
Well, I know not too long ago Mobil1 changed their names around and now it's called Super Syn. Maybe new bacthes didn't make it to Bahrain yet?
 
Originally posted by kpt4321


Good math!

5 bottles per oil change, 3 times a year, is 15 bottles per year. That means those ten bottles would last you like....9 months....not 3 years.
Bust out those calculators!!!
You get my vote for biggest DSM nerd. :thumb:
 
Originally posted by kpt4321


Good math!

5 bottles per oil change, 3 times a year, is 15 bottles per year. That means those ten bottles would last you like....9 months....not 3 years.

Hey math wizard I buy the 4.4L jugs. Lol

Get a life..:laugh: Now extend your arm make an L shape with your thumb and index finger and apply to your forehead....

What a ####ing bananna...
 
Originally posted by dsm1kenobe
10W - kinematic viscosity
60 - oil weight
Stolen from:

http://www.type2.com/library/mainten/oilw.htm

The way oil viscosity is measured is with a Saybolt orifice viscometer, which is basically a cup surrounded by a water bath which keeps the temperature of the oil sample constant. There is a plugged opening in the bottom of the cup, which is opened when the oil is at the proper temperature. The oil is captured in a 60ml flask and the amount of time required to fill the flask is recorded.

A SAE30 oil takes 58-70 seconds to fill the flask at 210F,
an SAE40 oil takes 70-85 seconds, and
an SAE50 oil takes 85-110 seconds.


There is also a test for low-temperature viscosity that is designated by a "W" suffix on the SAE viscosity rating.
A SAE5W oil takes less than 6000 seconds to fill the flask at 0F.
An SAE10W oil takes 6000-12000 seconds, and
an SAE20W takes 12000-48000 seconds.
____

As I understand it, "10W50" means the oil under Winter conditions (0°F) has the same viscosity a 10-weight oil does at 0°F, but it's a 50-viscosity oil. A "normal" 50-viscosity oil at 0°F would be similar to the caramel part of a Snickers bar at room temperature.

And I highly recommend against trying to compare oil labels across national borders. Names, trade names and formulations will vary widely, and to a confusing extent.

Also, manufacturer's preferred oil brands is more a matter of payoffs than any other consideration.
 
just adding to this thread.. im going to try the rs formula 10w 60 ..its pricey (more than mobil 1s top notch stuff)

Castrol sayss its extra for modified engines and Turbos that typically run much richer than N/A engines..ideal for auto-x,hill climb,asphalt and offroad rally,and <drag racing applications.

im pickung up some of this stuff this friday .

Ive seen a new version in the stores..called castrol 10w 60 RS Edge.. i think that replaced the old formula RS..i noticed castrol doesnt sell 15w 50 here anymore,just 10 w 60.

Adding to the post above.. differenrt countries get diferent names and viscosities.. mobil 1 sell their 0w40 as their top notch "racin" oil here..cant get mobil 1 in 10w 30 here..just 0w30,0w 40 and 10w 40.. i guess its because of the different conditions (mid european climate.. hot summers and mild .rarely freezing winters,wet atumns etc,and the extended highway abuse cars see here -aka autobahn)

Anyone else try Castrol RS in their DSM? oh,im gonna change my tranny oil too, throw some castrol TAF or SMX in..depends what the parts-store has
 
Old thread, but now that its up, im running a stock engined b16g that autoxs and road races but mostly does daily driver duty in VA. I have heard people switching to 15w-40 or combos like that, ive been using 10w-30 for the car's life and for the first time its showing some leaks. valve cover is starting to leak. The car is 80k miles old. I just dont know if I should go heavier weight yet or not, the valve cover gasket is of course a non-issue, but it will start to become an issue if other shit starts leaking, an engine build is still a while away, or till I blow it up.
 
I may switch from 10w-40 castrol to a ?w-50 because i cant seam to find 40 weight up here any where. I know my bearings will be much happier but is there any negative effects?
 
I just use good ol 10w30 mobile 1......

I dont really see a reasion to change the oil to a 15w50 when if im not mistaken thats going to cause more resistance in the engine. So unless you guys can explain to me why a heavier weight oil is good. Then I'm clueless why your all using such oil's.
 
I know if you increase the load on the bearings (make more power) if all things remain constant, your clearance and bearing size and pressure you have to increase viscosity to counter the extra load. The equations has viscosity/load. so its close to one to one.

A 30 weight oil is roughly 1.5 micro reyn while a 50 weight is roughly 2.5 micro reyn. I say roughly because this data comes from a chart.

I'm curious if anyone has seen side effects in the rest of the system.
 
Hey math wizard I buy the 4.4L jugs. Lol

Get a life..:laugh: Now extend your arm make an L shape with your thumb and index finger and apply to your forehead....

What a ####ing bananna...

I read the above posts and was thinking that he was talking about the big jugs, then I read this one and fell out of my chair. That was the funniest thing I have heard in forever! Brilliant, I could see his eyes rolling in the back of his head.
 
Oh, and I have had really good luck with mobil 1 0w40. Cracked my 2g exhaust mainfold in 4 places and turned my wastegate flapper into a taco but the e316g spins like a ball bearing with zero shaft play. And the engine does not burn any oil.
 
Oh, and I have had really good luck with mobil 1 0w40. Cracked my 2g exhaust mainfold in 4 places and turned my wastegate flapper into a taco but the e316g spins like a ball bearing with zero shaft play. And the engine does not burn any oil.

I second this statement. The engine I just replaced at 244,000 was run on 0w-40 Mobil 1 forever, I got it through a personal connection before it was on the walmart shelf. No problems. I'll take pictures of the bottom end if anyone is curious. 300+ HP almost its whole life, towed a race only talon cross country several times. Yep you just read that right I towed one dsm with another. Set the cruise at 80 and wait.

I've seen many different oils tried, unless you have something special to deal with, the lightest oil that provides oil film for the moving parts = maximum HP.

My worst experiences have been with engines run on heavy oil. Startup lube time takes longer, harder to force through the filter, more of the oil flying around in the engine instead of cooling off in the pan. Turbo is starved for oil longer as well.

I ran an 85 crx HF 494,3?? on same oil, never was in the engine. The seals didn't leak. Used less than a quart in 3000 miles. Sold it to a friend to help him out of a jam, and the moron gets it impounded and then doesn't tell me what happened until its too late.
 
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