Switching to Auto

[Zufelt]

whats up guys I've grown tired of my manual transmission due to the fact that I have to replace the clutch after about a year of track/street use. So Instead of using the money to upgrade my clutch I think would optimal to switch to automatic transmission. It seems that there really isn't a write up on this aS ive only found an unofficial list. Are there any reasons why I shouldnt switch to auto aside from the hassle but it might cause switching. Will I lose any power from doing this i saw on a thread that 700 horsepower in a manual is 600 in automatic is this true? I'm just trying to get a feel for it before actually dedicate myself to this. Here are the threads I'm reading through,

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/awd-manual-to-auto-swap.423875/

http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=219894&highlight=auto trans

 

[Zufelt]

Just found this, but curious if this list is the same, aside from it needing to be 2g AWD 7 bolt parts.

http://www.vadsm.com/muscle/mt_to_at.htm

Also my ECU is socketed already, can I just splice the TCU into it somehow? Also, it's a 95 ecu, but the cars a 97, can I get the trans from any 95 to 99.

 

[GRNDSM]

You want to find an Auto engine/tranny harness for cleanest results. Then, just keep your current ECU.

 

[Zufelt]

You want to find an Auto engine/tranny harness for cleanest results. Then, just keep your current ECU.

I appreciate the reply, I ended up abandoning this idea and try solving my problem.

 

[boost97gst]

Im swapping to auto awd. use the correct TCU from an awd auto. Use the harness. I believe you can use a 2gb ecu with the 2ga harness and 2ga TCU with no problems. Thats a big question mark on my build plans right now and i suppose ill find out after everything is installed if it truly works. My car WAS a fwd auto so i already have an auto harness, its just chewed and hacked beyond words. The only thing is extending the cas wiring to go on the passenger side. But it should be wire to wire and you wont have to invert signal or do any swapping at all of the injector wiring.

Yes, you will lose some power but IMO the power you have will be put to the ground a lot better and a lot faster. Plus, like you said, less things will break. Thats one of the best reasons for auto, not to mention the launch.

 

[GRNDSM]

I appreciate the reply, I ended up abandoning this idea and try solving my problem.

Good idea! Switching to automatic should be done because you want automatic and not because if you have some problem with a manual tranny!

 

[Zufelt]

Quiet honestly.. I would like an auto trans, I only abandoned it because I feel it's above my skill level. If I can just switch harnesses than what harness do I need for a 97 GSX AWD? I have a 95 eprom so would that mean I need the 97 or 95 harness? Also, I have a 97 cas so how would that work.. so many unknowns that I'm not sure about electrical wise.

 

[craig4g63]

Quiet honestly.. I would like an auto trans, I only abandoned it because I feel it's above my skill level. If I can just switch harnesses than what harness do I need for a 97 GSX AWD? I have a 95 eprom so would that mean I need the 97 or 95 harness? Also, I have a 97 cas so how would that work.. so many unknowns that I'm not sure about electrical wise.

Just FYI, you don't need a Tcu. You can use a shift box as a standalone. Get a push button steering wheel and call it a day.

 

[Zufelt]

If that's the case. I can install the trans without,messing with any wiring aside from the shift box.. that would make life easier.. I'll look into that. I would definitely make the swap if I can just wire in the shift box without,needing to mess with my wiring. Also, will my manual speed sensor and,reverse lights plug into the trans and work? I appreciate the help, I would love to make the swap I just don't want to be stuck without help.

 

[Zufelt]

About to grab the roadsurge shift box,I had a quick question. After the pilot pushing is out if the crank do the auto trans have one, I've seen them called crank bushings but haven't been able to find them on extremepsi. Also, red loctite on the kiggly flexplate bolts. . I've seen various Things about what bolts to use, are there any that don't need to be cut or resized?

 

[Zufelt]

Well here is a picture as is the dowel is out, from this point do I just install the pilot bushing and put the flex plate on? Then then put the converter in the trans (3clicks) and bolt them together? Shall I grease the outside and inside of the pilot bushing?

http://www.streettunedmotorsports.com/parts/pilot_bushing_auto.htm

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[brisvr4]

I'd unbolt that engine/trans spacer plate to make sure that it lines up properly on the auto.
I also use nickel anti seize on the pilot bushing where the converter centres.

 

[Zufelt]

Awesome I appreciate it man. I'm actually grabbing up an auto starter plate. Do people call the starter plate and spacer plate the same thing? I read for th kiggly that I don't use a spacer plate for the flrxplate to engine but I use one for flexplate to converter?.. so I do this here

Put in pilot bushing
Put on auto starter plate
Put flexplate on with red loctite. (What bolts?)
Line converter up on trans (make sure it clicks three times.)
Then bolt on the trans
After this is done peak through the inspection window and I'll see holes for the flex plate to converter put them in one by one with red loctite, rotating the engine to,get to,the next one? After that I'm good to go trans wise?


Do I need a spacer plate?
Where can I get torque converter bolts?
What are you,using,to spin the engine?

 

[92GVR4SC]

Use a TCU, The point of an auto trans is to let it shift automatically, The shift box is a good idea if you are gonna drag race, but not for a daily driver.

 

[Bud92gsx]

Use a TCU, The point of an auto trans is to let it shift automatically, The shift box is a good idea if you are gonna drag race, but not for a daily driver.

Before I broke my car everytime i touched it..I used the free toggle shifter mod as a daily for 2 ish years,no upgraded cooler..

 

[Zufelt]

I plan on running just a roadsurge shift box, hopefully get things in order of how to be installed as I haven't messed with an auto trans. Glad to see you've had success with manual shifting bud.

 

[boost97gst]

Forcedfour, roadsurge... both can be safely run as a standalone unit. I'm not sure the street natures of 100% line pressure shifts contstantly and downshifts but you do have one less component in the system to give you a hiccup(TCU).

OP: You'e clearly doing this in-car. Please, id be very interested in finding out how difficult or easier it is to do it this way. When i do mine everything will be out so chances are ill put it all in at once. Dropping the motor and trans together is much easier than removing them. It would be nice to know that this can be done so in the future i could remove just the t case and tranny and leave the motor in.
Thanks and best of luck!

 

[Zufelt]

Anytime man, hopefully someone will answer my above questions so I don't mess up haha.

 

[92GVR4SC]

I would order the pilot bushing from the dealer ship. I discovered most parts stores do not carry these OEM parts, or even aftermarket. Besides it cost about the same price.
The flex plate. You need to order the 6 bolts from the dealer or grind the ones down that came out of your 5 speed. I would measure the depth of the holes, so you don't take off too many treads, but you don't want to bottom out where they don't tread all the way in.. Use red lock tight and torque to spec.
According to Kiggley, you do not need the black metal spacer plates that go on the crank or the flexplate side, unless you're planning on making over 600 hp..

The wiring issue is up to you.. If you want to run a TCU then you need to build a harness and watch your wiring diagrams. The EFI website has the chart on what goes where, and I would also join ATDSM.com to get info from that site concerning the auto trans.

The CV axle (driver's side) will be a little bit of a PITA , due to you having to use spacers between it and the block. I used 8 washers (for each bolt) and welded them down the sides/ ground flush, and made my spacers that way. You will need to go to a hardware store and buy two metric bolts and grind the threads down, because the factory bolts are too short.

Thats a good start.

 

[Zufelt]

Awesome.. I appreciate That man, I'll just use a starter plate then.. also, I'm not sure what you mean by spacers on the driver side axle needing spacers. Why is this?

 

[Zufelt]

Gvr can you expand on the spacers for the axle, I haven't read this anywhere. I won't be using the two spacers as you stated I won't need them as I'm not over 600hp. I'll be verifying and asking as I buy parts..


1. Crank bushing and Pilot bushing are the same.
2. I need to replace the starter plate with a 95 to 99 A/T. (I'm using a 95 trans and t case)
Thanks for the help on the swap guys, I'm sure by the time it's done it will literally be a set by step.

 

[Zufelt]

Just updating this for anyone that finds this thread, purchased an OEM Pilot Bearing, Auto AWD Starter plate, and an Auto Flywheel inspection cover, along with an Auto 95 Rear Dif, Auto shift I ng assembly/cables and last but not least a Kiggly 7 bolt Flex plate SFI 29.1. I'll update as this goes along, with new parts and new questions..

 

[Zufelt]

tuld order the pilot bushing from the dealer ship. I discovered most parts stores do not carry these OEM parts, or even aftermarket. Besides it cost about the same price.
The flex plate. You need to order the 6 bolts from the dealer or grind the ones down that came out of your 5 speed. I would measure the depth of the holes, so you don't take off too many treads, but you don't want to bottom out where they don't tread all the way in.. Use red lock tight and torque to spec.
According to Kiggley, you do not need the black metal spacer plates that go on the crank or the flexplate side, unless you're planning on making over 600 hp..

The wiring issue is up to you.. If you want to run a TCU then you need to build a harness and watch your wiring diagrams. The EFI website has the chart on what goes where, and I would also join ATDSM.com to get info from that site concerning the auto trans.

The CV axle (driver's side) will be a little bit of a PITA , due to you having to use spacers between it and the block. I used 8 washers (for each bolt) and welded them down the sides/ ground flush, and made my spacers that way. You will need to go to a hardware store and buy two metric bolts and grind the threads down, because the factory bolts are too short.

Thats a good start.

I've been wondering about this.. was this because you didn't use the AT front and rear motor mounts? I haven't heard of this in any swap thread, which there aren't to many.

 

[Zufelt]

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Just a few updates, anti seize on the pilot bearing, which I believe is all the way in ans my AT starter plate.

 

[Boomdeeze]

Just another option on top on the roadsurge box is you can install a ratchet shifter. Very fun to drive and keeps you more involved than pressing a button.