Sunroof Assembly Removal

[kimcheefists]

Does anyone have a step by step tech article with pictures on how to remove the sunroof assembly for a 2g? I looked at the tech article for Sunroof Dis-Assembly, Maintenance and Drive Cable Install by 95CarbonEclipse but there doesn't seem to be any pictures. If not, then I guess I could just work with that tech article. Also I tried to use that one ecanfix.com site but the link doesn't seem to work anymore. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[SeaveeDSM]

Working from memory here...

Remove:

- visors
- passenger side "grab rail"
- coat hanger(s)
- pry out center of sunroof switch cover plate, then there are two screws for the swithc plate frame. IMPORTANT: aside from the two screws you have to squeeze or use a scrwdriver to squeeze the two "arms" of the switchplate frame that point upwards together as you pull it off to get it to come off. The parts you have to squeeze/pry together are really not visible with the headliner in place and if you don't do this and force it it WILL break (ask me how I know).
- headliner
- disconnect the power cable to the sunroof
- I think there is a separate cable too for the "sunroof brain" which is next to the motor on the passenger side
- sunroof glass' torx screws T25 size IIRC and remove the glass assembly
- squeeze the hose clamps on the four water drain tubes in the four corners of the sunroof frame
- there is a light metal "bar" which lays left/right towards the rear part of the frame. You access the 2 screws from topside and then remove the bar. This bar may be able to be left in place if you are removing the whole sunroof assembly, just cant remember for sure.
- there are 3 or 4 bolts one each side of the sunroof frame assemby, from inside the passenger compartment look up and you can see them. This is primarily what holds it in place. 10MM heads IIRC, remove them and the sunroof frame assembly drops IN.

I have 2 complete 2G frame assemblies in my shed. I'll take pics from top and bottom removed from the car if you need them but it has to wait til tomorrow. Its dark and raining like hell right now.

 

[kimcheefists]

Thank you so much! And yes, the pics'll help A LOT! One last thing, I already have the tech article on how to remove the headliner bookmarked but it doesn't really explain how to remove the plastic pieces in the interior. I just want to be really careful so that I don't break anything.

 

[Defiant]

http://web.archive.org/web/20060514...ix.com/users/manualcd/gift/dsm/2g_sunroof.pdf

 

[SeaveeDSM]

One more thing, if your sunroof glass is rusted badly be advised it is NO LONGER available from Mitsubishi period. There is no aftermarket replacement I'm aware of.

Unless you can find one used at a junkyard in better shape than yours, the glass from 95'99 Dodge Avengers and Chrysler Sebrings is identical. As of a few months ago you can still get them from MOPAR dealers - around $400 with shipping. I am 100% sure of the fitment as I did this myself.

Other unappealing alternatives:

- Replace the entire sunroof with a larger aftermarket one.
- Have a body shop fill in the sunroof.

With either you'd have to alter/replace the headliner to fit the new configuration. Headliner also no longer available from Mitsu.

 

[kimcheefists]

Yea i read up on the the glass not being available anymore. But did you just say that the glass can rust? I'm going to assume that you're talking about the body where the sunroof assy attaches to? In any case, I bought the whole assy from a guy on ebay for $100. As far as I know, nothing is rusty in the sunroof area.


BTW, big thanks to Defiant.

 

[SeaveeDSM]

The glass assembly is the primary thing that can rust but its certainly possible for the rest of the frame and even the roof's body areas around a leaky sunroof to rust.

These however I think are far less common. I don't recall seeing a meaningful rust situation on these even in the many DSM cadavers I've seen at the local junkyards. I guess for there to be a real bad problem on these areas it would probably only occur if someone allowed the glass frame portion to severely rust and even then leave it that way for a protracted period and/or allow the drain tubes to become severely clogged and again let it stay in such a state for a long time.

I got lucky and got two complete frame assemblies, motors and all (minus the glass) from a local "u pick" type salvage yard for $45 each. I suppose factoring in the time of finding them, physically pulling them and shipping about $100 is still a fair price.

Remember, if you look for these in salvage yards the potential pool of "donor cars" is quite a bit larger when you expand the candidates to include the '95-99 Avengers and Sebrings. Heck, even the leather wrapped steering wheels are identical on those cars as those on the 2G GST/GSX (except for the airbag not having the Mitsu logo molded in).

Do you still need the pics of the removed frame or did the link Defiant sent do the job? If not let me know. I still have not had a chance to dig them out from my shed and its gettin close to dark now....

 

[kimcheefists]

The link that Defiant sent me should get me through the job. But yea man, thanks for all the useful info. I'll keep that in mind for future reference.

BTW does anyone know how to remove the center vent?

 

[Defiant]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/problem-diagnosis/100303-how-do-you-remove-center-vent-2g.html

 

[Jeff99GS]

One more thing, if your sunroof glass is rusted badly be advised it is NO LONGER available from Mitsubishi period. There is no aftermarket replacement I'm aware of.

Unless you can find one used at a junkyard in better shape than yours, the glass from 95'99 Dodge Avengers and Chrysler Sebrings is identical. As of a few months ago you can still get them from MOPAR dealers - around $400 with shipping. I am 100% sure of the fitment as I did this myself.

Other unappealing alternatives:

- Replace the entire sunroof with a larger aftermarket one.
- Have a body shop fill in the sunroof.

With either you'd have to alter/replace the headliner to fit the new configuration. Headliner also no longer available from Mitsu.

True Mitsu does not carry the glass anymore but Chrysler does! There are a few other cars with that same sunroof GLASS.

 

[kimcheefists]

Thanks Defiant. You're the man. As for Jeff, that's also good info to know. I don't need glass for my sunroof yet but if by any chance it cracks or breaks, I'll know what other alternatives I have.

 

[Jeff99GS]

Thanks Defiant. You're the man. As for Jeff, that's also good info to know. I don't need glass for my sunroof yet but if by any chance it cracks or breaks, I'll know what other alternatives I have.

Its not that they crack or break often, its the Rust On the metal trim around the glass that eventually ruins the sunroof.

Why are you taking your sunroof out anyway? Just curious

 

[kimcheefists]

Well my sunroof won't close all the way. I know there are ways to fix it but I'm too lazy to actually go in there and find out what's wrong so I just ordered a whole new assembly. And I KNOW something broke off of the assembly ### when it initially didn't close, a plastic piece broke off from somewhere in the tracks. On top of that I'm stationed in Germany. So if I tried to fix it, and found out that it needed a part, I doubt that I'd be able to find the part here since they don't have ANY Eclipses here. So yea, I figured it'd just be easier to order the whole new assembly and fix the assembly that I took out of my car when I come back to the states and maybe sell it on ebay.

 

[SeaveeDSM]

Well my sunroof won't close all the way. I know there are ways to fix it but I'm too lazy to actually go in there and find out what's wrong so I just ordered a whole new assembly. And I KNOW something broke off of the assembly ### when it initially didn't close, a plastic piece broke off from somewhere in the tracks.
...

Search the forums for "sunroof won't close" before you pull the old one out. I recall reading a thread here not too long ago where someone described the same problem you are having. My recollection is it was a very simple fix in that case - I think achievable just by taking the glass off only to access the interfering issue. It certainly is worth a try since it may be far less than removing and replacing the whole assembly. There were several other people that had chimed in with the same problem and the same easy fix. It seemed to be not all that uncommon a problem.

One last thing, regardless of if you fix the existing or put in the new assembly, clean up the tracks where the sonroof moves along with shop towels, etc. as best you can. Then apply a light spray and/or brush on with a small brush some white lithium grease along all the path on both sides the sunroof mechanism moves. I've done that about every 6-8 months since I bought the car new 11 years ago. I open the sunroof almost every time I drive and other than the metal frame the glass itself is mounted to rusting (has happened twice and replaced that each time), I'venever had a problem with the mechanism or operation of the sunroof itself.

 

[kimcheefists]

Yea, I looked at pretty much all of the sunroof forums on this site. There was something about breaking off a tab on each side of the sunroof tracks and that it would fix the problem. The only problem is that it would rattle during high speeds or something. But like I said, a plastic piece broke off of the sunroof assembly and since I'm in Germany, the parts for this car are extremely hard to find.

But yes, I will definitely take your advice on cleaning the tracks and lubricating them.

 

[slipkid]

THANKS for this thread (and this forum!). I have a problem with my '99 GSX sunroof leaking and have been googling around the net, been to some other forums, but this is the first time I've been able to find most of what I need to read/absorb all in one place.

I found the Tech article mentioned by the original poster in this thread and it is very helpful but like already said I wish it had pictures.


While I am about to spend a lot more time reading threads on this forum relating to sunroof leaks, and I have already printed out a bunch of stuff that I need to read/absorb/reflect on, I want to ask some questions about some things I've read so far anyways. Sorry if any of these are too dumb to even answer or already answered...

(1) I've read that the 4 drain tubes on the roof can clog and may be part of my problem. I tried spritzing some compressed air from a simple el cheapo compressed air can into them that I use for some computer cleaning but I am doubting that is enough pressure to really do anything useful. Does anyone have suggestions for really cleaning these tubes, or how to get at them better etc (I am just looking at the holes from the top of the sunroof), then how to check that they are cleared?? Can you buy compressed air in industrial strength cans???


(2) I was thinking of replacing the rubber seal thingee around the glass. JNZ carries a replacement part for this. Does anyone have experience both removing the old piece and installing the new one?? IE: How hard is it, are there any tricks/tools/special equipment required?? If it is just something that pulls off, then new one snaps in or something like that I'd like to try to do it myself, but if it is intricate or requires some kind of specialized equipment or tools I'm probably better off paying JNZ to do it (they say they can but guy I talked to said he didn't know what was involved).

THANKS very much for any help.

 

[Defiant]

If your drain has a decent blockage, compressed air will only blow the drain tubing off its pipe. Use weedeater line in a battery drill to clean it instead.

 

[SeaveeDSM]

(1) I've read that the 4 drain tubes on the roof can clog and may be part of my problem. I tried spritzing some compressed air from a simple el cheapo compressed air can into them that I use for some computer cleaning but I am doubting that is enough pressure to really do anything useful. Does anyone have suggestions for really cleaning these tubes, or how to get at them better etc (I am just looking at the holes from the top of the sunroof), then how to check that they are cleared?? Can you buy compressed air in industrial strength cans???


(2) I was thinking of replacing the rubber seal thingee around the glass. JNZ carries a replacement part for this. Does anyone have experience both removing the old piece and installing the new one?? IE: How hard is it, are there any tricks/tools/special equipment required?? If it is just something that pulls off, then new one snaps in or something like that I'd like to try to do it myself, but if it is intricate or requires some kind of specialized equipment or tools I'm probably better off paying JNZ to do it (they say they can but guy I talked to said he didn't know what was involved).

THANKS very much for any help.

For #1, echo what Defiant said. The weedeater line is strong but not so strong like a coat hanger that it will perforate the rubber tubing. You can probably take the car to a mechanic who has a blower attachment to their compressed air line and they can likely hit it for you. Just don't initially hold the blower nozzle right up tight against the hole so that the pressure is not so great.

Another potential option - but be very careful with spillage and your paint - is to carefully pour a couple of ounces (max) of draino into each hole and let sit for a couple hours. This might work if the obstruction is organic (i.e., leaves) but if its really thick in there it will only dissolve the top bit and the rest will remain blocking things.

For #2 - no special tools needed. The old weatherstrip just pulls off. Be forewarned - if the metal frame the glass is mounted to has rusted and depending on how bad, you may have a few issues when re-applying the new weatherstrip. Look on the existing weatherstrip for big bulges or "tumors". If present weatherstip itself inside and/or the metal lip on the glass frame are rusting. A common place to find the weatherstrip starting to rust is dead center in the back where the two ends meet. Also the corners.

If after pulling the old weatherstrip off the the metal lip of the glass assembly is also rusted some it may be bad enough that there are missing "gaps" on the lip's edge where the new weatherstrip needs to be press-fitted into place. No real fix there except for sanding, ospho and i suggest then masking the glass and and spray painting the entire metal frame of the glass including the lip to slow the rusting problem before applying the new weatherstrip.

The new weatherstrip is a little over-sized from the old one so when you put it on you can trim the two ends where they meet in the back to fit as close to each other as possible. Trim those ends using a dremel or high speed cutting wheel, do NOT use wire cutters or a razor blade or even tin/metal snips. Why?: Inside the weather strip is some pretty hard metal backing. Using things like a standard wire cutter will cut it but in the process mangle the end and you won't get a good clean flush cut like with a high speed cutting wheel. Its important the ends be cut as cleanly as possible so they join tight. It reduces the beginning of the rusting there.

The following extra paint and sealing procedure is not really necessary on an already used sunroof glass assembly as its probably pointless because it is almost certain there will be some beginnings of rust. It is however what I did to try to delay or stop the rusting on a brand new OEM glass assembly I bought - before it ever was installed and saw the first drop of rain:

Before installing I took off the brand new weatherstrip. Then masked off and spray painted the entire metal frame of the glass with a few coats of black rustoleum from a rattle can. After the extra paint - who's purpose is to better seal/protect the metal from moisture - the existing weatherstrip was then too short by a few millimeters. Thats because the perimiter of the lip is now ever so slightly larger than before with the added paint. As a result I had to use a brand new weatherstrip which I could cut to fit precisely.

Then, just before installing the new weatherstrip (with the masking tape still on the glass) I used a small brush to apply something I have called OMC gasket maker (marine stores have it and I'm sure there is an automotive equivalent) all along the lip of the glass assembly. This stuff is a thick, runny gasket making material, sort of the consistency of thick syrup and its dark brown color. When it dries it stays semi-soft and is not at all runny. Aftr a coat of this stuff on the lip - and still not dried - with a friend helping and starting dead center in the back of the glass ass'y lip, I then brushed even more of the gasket stuff INTO the middle of the weatherstrip as I pressed it along into place on the lip of the glass and worked my way around the frame.

You have to press the weatherstrip hard to get it to fit onto the lip - using as needed a few taps with an open palm or maybe even a rubber mallet. The excess gasket making material oozes out but the weatherstrip seals much better to the lip with this - and it will keep water from getting in and attacking the weatherstrip and metal lip. A poor seal between the weatehrstrip and lip - even though it "looks" tight is THE main reason so many of the OEM glasses have rusted. They are also painted poorly which adds to the vulnerability.

When you get back around to the back where the other end of the weatherstrip it, mark the free end to be target where to cut it. Start with a cut thats a hair too long - by a couple of millimeters or even more. Its critical you don't cut it too short or there will be a gap between both ends and water will get in and start the rusting cancer process. After the rough cut close to the length needed, using the dremel or wheel gradually grind the end of the weatherstrip so that when finally pressed into place its VERY tight up against the other end. Finally, at the weatherstrip junction I applied a bit of black RTV to further seal them.

It will now look pretty messy with alot of excess gasket making material oozing out. No biggie - using shop rags, wipe off the excess, remove the masking tape. Install the glass assembly to the sunroof frame on the car body. For a couple days, especially in hot weather a bit more excess gasket making material will ooze out from under the edge of the weatherstrip as its curing in there. No issues, just wipe clean.

I know all this is alot of work but on a $400+ new glass assembly, which are quickly running out of availability I had to try something to keep it from rusting. I don't know yet how successfully it will work but its a near certainty if I installed it as it comes new its going to rust again. Thats exactly what 2 others before it did and another one on my wife's old GST too... Crossing my fingers this will work. I have yet to find one on a 2G GST running or in a junkyard down here in Miami that does not have the rusting problem.... Maybe its our frequent summer rainstorms....

 

[slipkid]

If your drain has a decent blockage, compressed air will only blow the drain tubing off its pipe. Use weedeater line in a battery drill to clean it instead.

Thanks for that advice! I've been reading some more and see some threads where people suggested compressed air, a hanger, or weedeater line for checking/unclogging these. It seemed to me that compressed would be the safest option as far as not damaging the tubes but I didn't think about the problem of blowing them off what they are attached to until you just mentioned it. I really need to ponder what I should do a bit more. I was thinking of stopping at a gas station and using a tire pressure air pump to blow a big gust in there. Now I'm not sure that is so smart though (if it blows off the tubes). I think you can get to where they attach by taking off the inside of the roof to fix them if they come off but I haven't looked into doing any of that yet. Maybe I need to do that regardless to make sure they are even attached in the first place though....maybe they already came off & that is what the water is from....sheesh...

Back to the unclog methods, I thought weedeater line was just like fishing line so for the life of me I can't figure out how that would do anything as far trying to use it to unclog a tube though. Or how you would use a power drill and weedeater line to do anything. If you have time please explain - otherwise I will go to a hardware store and ask to see weedeater line. Maybe I just don't know what the stuff really is!

Thanks again!

 

[slipkid]

Another potential option - but be very careful with spillage and your paint - is to carefully pour a couple of ounces (max) of draino into each hole and let sit for a couple hours. This might work if the obstruction is organic (i.e., leaves) but if its really thick in there it will only dissolve the top bit and the rest will remain blocking things.

...<snip>...

The new weatherstrip is a little over-sized from the old one so when you put it on you can trim the two ends where they meet in the back to fit as close to each other as possible. Trim those ends using a dremel or high speed cutting wheel, do NOT use wire cutters or a razor blade or even tin/metal snips. Why?: Inside the weather strip is some pretty hard metal backing. Using things like a standard wire cutter will cut it but in the process mangle the end and you won't get a good clean flush cut like with a high speed cutting wheel. Its important the ends be cut as cleanly as possible so they join tight. It reduces the beginning of the rusting there.

...<snip>...

THANKS very much for all your detailed info! Much appreciated. I've got a lot to absorb there. Really makes me hesitate to pay somebody else to do the install because I don't think anyone would bother to be 100% thorough with everything like you mentioned. I am printing that out to read/ponder/think over it all.

Just commenting on 2 things I quoted above - I'm too afraid to try the draino method, too many chances for something bad to happen to the tubes or the car metal there for me.

Great tip on cutting the new sealer strip. I was expecting it to just be rubber. I definitely would have been using just an exacto knife or scissors and probably mangling it because of the backing you mentioned. I don't own any kind of dremel/cutter though but will have see about either borrowing or buying one if I tackle this myself. This is yet another detail that I bet a garage or even JNZ probably don't know (?) and would just use a straight cutter of some kind & leave it jagged. There really is a lot to this whole thing to do it right.....

 

[slipkid]

Had another question(s) regarding replacing the seal:

(1) I bought a new seal and am hoping to pick it up tomorrow, work on it this weekend if possible. I have the sunroof manual PDF printed out and in there in mentions putting an adhesive on the "splice joint area" where you are joining the 2 ends of the rubber seal strip together in the back.

The adhesive to use as mentioned in the manual is called "LOCTITE 410 BLACK TOUGHENED INSTANT ADHESIVE or equivalent". I have gone to several hardware stores and nobody has that or knows what it is. I bought 2 different things which may or may not work on the advice of people in the stores. One is called "LOCTITE SUPER GLUE CONTROL GEL", the other is called "PERMATEX BLACK ADHESIVE SEALANT".

Does anyone know if these are ok to use for this, or can suggest something else (or where to get the "LOCTITE 410 BLACK TOUGHENED INSTANT ADHESIVE")?


(2) Similar question regarding sealant to use on the sunroof attachment screws. The manual says to use "LOCTITE SMALL SCREW THREADLOCKER 222 or equivalent". Once again I could find no such thing as named in any store. I ended up buying "LOCTITE TITEN FOR SCREWS". I am pretty sure this is ok as it is just generic stuff for keeping screws tight when subjected to vibration but would like to know if anyone has other suggestions or warnings regarding this.

THANKS for any hints!

P.S. I think I screwed up one of my drainage hoses trying to check it for clogs. I forced a piece of steel cable in there and it snagged on something (I assume the rubber edge). So now I have to take the headliner off too to check things over.....sigh....

 

[SeaveeDSM]

Had another question(s) regarding replacing the seal:

(1) I bought a new seal and am hoping to pick it up tomorrow, work on it this weekend if possible. I have the sunroof manual PDF printed out and in there in mentions putting an adhesive on the "splice joint area" where you are joining the 2 ends of the rubber seal strip together in the back.

The adhesive to use as mentioned in the manual is called "LOCTITE 410 BLACK TOUGHENED INSTANT ADHESIVE or equivalent". I have gone to several hardware stores and nobody has that or knows what it is. I bought 2 different things which may or may not work on the advice of people in the stores. One is called "LOCTITE SUPER GLUE CONTROL GEL", the other is called "PERMATEX BLACK ADHESIVE SEALANT".

Does anyone know if these are ok to use for this, or can suggest something else (or where to get the "LOCTITE 410 BLACK TOUGHENED INSTANT ADHESIVE")?

I used Permatex Black Weatherstrip Adhesive Item #81850 for the joint where the two ends of the weathertrip meet. Apply it to the last inch of the inner part of the weatherstrip at each end and to the same spot on the metal lip itself. Let it sit a couple minutes to start to get tacky then press in place. Got it at Advance Auto Parts.

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(2) Similar question regarding sealant to use on the sunroof attachment screws. The manual says to use "LOCTITE SMALL SCREW THREADLOCKER 222 or equivalent". Once again I could find no such thing as named in any store. I ended up buying "LOCTITE TITEN FOR SCREWS". I am pretty sure this is ok as it is just generic stuff for keeping screws tight when subjected to vibration but would like to know if anyone has other suggestions or warnings regarding this.

THANKS for any hints!

P.S. I think I screwed up one of my drainage hoses trying to check it for clogs. I forced a piece of steel cable in there and it snagged on something (I assume the rubber edge). So now I have to take the headliner off too to check things over.....sigh....

Blue (medium strength) loctite is fine for the torx style screws holding the glass in place.

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When taking off the headliner be careful removing the trim plate around the sunroof opening switch. There are two screws and then couple of tabs (not visible from the bottom looking up) that need to be sqeezed together to get it to pop out. Those tabs break easily (ask me how I know).

If you can find a wrecked 2G Eclipse, Avenger or Sebring 95-99 with an OEM sunroof at a u-pick style junkyard you may want to go to town on it just to see how it all goes together before doing yours.

 

[slipkid]

Thanks a ton again SeaVee, your info in this thread is invaluable.

I've researched things further and it sounds like that Permatex seal stuff you used will definitely be better than what I bought. Problem for me again is trying to find the stuff. Have tried more hardware stores/home depot today and no one has that either. I see it on-line though. Also found the original Loctite stuff on-line too. But I am going to hit some car parts places tomorrow in addition to other hardware type stores as I see I need some more stuff, also am going to hit a nearby junkyard & see if I can find a usable sunroof piece as a backup, as am now afraid that I may have more complications with putting on my new seal. I inspected the roof more thoroughly and I see I have a big "tumor" in the old seal in the back near where the 2 pieces join so I must have rust in there, which complicates things, needing to possibly go the ospho/rustoleum/etc route in all this too, which adds many complications for me, since working with that I think may require leaving things out overnight to cure/dry b4 I can even attempt putting the new seal on, and I do not have a garage to store the car in the meantime while that is going on....plus will be raining here next couple days....

 

[SeaveeDSM]

The sunroof problems have been a pet peeve of mine. I have my 98 GST and my wife used to have an identical black '98 GST. Between the 2 a total of FOUR OEM sunroofs rusted.... We sold her GST a few years back. In spite of the issues, I LOVE my sunroof (Miami's good for that) and use it almost every time I drive. I was determined to figure out why these have such a propensity to rust. It seems for sure its two main vulnerabilities that precipitate the rusting - 1) the weathrstrip does not quite seal well, not just at the joint but even where it lays flat on the glass and 2) the metal frame the glass is "glued" to is poorly painted. the metal itself is flimsy and together are not very rust resistant from the factory. Time will tell if the protective measures I did will slow or even better stop the rust from happening with my brand new glass.

If it turns out your existing sunroof glass frame is badly rusted try to find a better condition used one from a donor car before trying to fix yours. Again, any 2G Eclipse, Dodge Avenger, Chrysler Sebring 95-99 will fit. Unfortunately it is hard (if not impossible) to find a used glass that does not have the rust issue...

I had a good friend who works fiberglass look at my old rusted glass. The bad news is he said it would be very, very difficult to truly repair it from its rusted state - and this is from someone with skill doing this.... If yours is already badly rusted you might improve it and slow the progression but its likely it can not be stopped now. Sorry for the potentially bad news. This is why I bit the bullet and got not one but two new OEM glass assemblies from an online MOPAR parts dealer. Expensive as heck but I'm keeping the car very long term and can not risk Dodge/Chrysler's supply of these also running out. Mitsu ran out over a year ago and it won't be long now for mopar.

Did you say you bought a new weatherstrip seal? If so you can see just by roughly laying it around the perimeter of the glass it should be quite a bit longer than you'll need. You can then cut the last 1/2" off or so (make sure to leave plenty still to work with) to see how the inner part of the W/strip has the metal backing and why a razor, snips, etc. will not work well.

Good luck to you.

 

[slipkid]

Did you say you bought a new weatherstrip seal? If so you can see just by roughly laying it around the perimeter of the glass it should be quite a bit longer than you'll need. You can than cut the last 1/2" off or so (make sure to leave plenty still to work with) to see how the inner part of the W/strip has the metal backing and why a razor, snips, etc. will not work well.

Yup, I can see that metal inside the new strip, just looking at the ends.

THANKS again.