Strange Electrical Problem

[98spydert]

Maybe someone has had this happen before and can give me a quick fix (crosses fingers). I drove around fine all day yesterday then right before dark, I was cruising about 30 mph with my head lights on and (stock) stereo on. Something made a crackle electrical sound and my head lights and gauge lights shut off. The car ran fine and everything works except the head lights, high beams, tail lights, parking lights, fog lights, and gauge lights. The wierd thing is, my battery light came on along with my e-brake light. The brake light is on but slightly dim and when I do put the e-brake up, the light just brightens. My TT reads about 1v higher than normal. The car keeps running after I remove the battery. For reference, the only modifications to electrical parts are the TT and an aftermarket amp, eq, and sub in the trunk.

 

[98spydert]

Had a little bit of time today so I went through and disconnected all of my aftermarket stereo stuff and the turbo timer just to rule them out. No change. New news though, when the key is turned on to power (without starting it) there's a wierd buzz from the engine bay. I can't turn the key on and stand next to the engine at the same time so I can't pen point it sence it only last about 1 second or less. The bad thing is I don't even know if it was there before my problem. It also buzzes very quickly when the key is turned off so I used the TT to give myself time to get to the engine bay. It's somewhere near the throttle body. I thought the ISC turning on and off but I can't tell yet. I'll have to get someone to power the key on while I'm standing near the engine.

 

[98spydert]

Is there a fuse for the head/tail lights somewhere that I'm missing? I see the relays in the fuse box under the hood...

 

[spooner_dee]

did you check the fuses under your dash? on the driver side to the left under the steering wheel is your fuse box, im pretty sure the headlight fuses along with the others are down there, take a look at them if u havent already see if u blew them fuses. As to why it happend im not exactly sure, could of been a power spike, ive had a few weired ones like that, but never enough to make things go out.

 

[Aikouka]

The ISC does vibrate if you give it power. If you want to see if that's what is making that noise, try manually giving it power with a 6v battery as described in the service manual or the chilton's manual.

I know in the 1gs, if you get the three lights coming on (coolant, amp and brake) that means there's a problem in the charging system (alternator). It's worth a look .

 

[98spydert]

I'm starting to think it is the charging sytem. Like I said, the voltage reads higher than it used to now. It's at 14.8 today and that's where ever the TT gets it's power, not at the alternator or battery. The ignition under the steering wheel I think. I'm gonna go around the corner to Sears tomorrow and get them to test the alternator and battery.

As for fuses, I didn't see any fuses under there for lights or radio or anything. I'll go pop em all out and check them anyways. I'm almost positive it's a single fuse now because the only problems are ALL related to the same head light switch; i.e. head lights, tail lights, parking lights, fog lights, and high beams. Every other electronic part in the car works just like it should

The two lights, brake and battery, are confusing though. Thanks for some feedback.

 

[luv2rallye]

Check the green 40 amp fusable link in engine fuse box (middle row left marked headlamp). It runs all those lights. Head, tail and fog also have separate relays in same box.

 

[VR-4Galant767]

I had similar problems once my fusible link for the alternator went out on my 2G talon. After replacing the fusible link I was good to go.

 

[RamenPride]

I'm starting to think it is the charging sytem. Like I said, the voltage reads higher than it used to now. It's at 14.8 today and that's where ever the TT gets it's power, not at the alternator or battery. The ignition under the steering wheel I think. I'm gonna go around the corner to Sears tomorrow and get them to test the alternator and battery.

It's been my experiece that the TT reads about 1.5V less than what the battery is actually seeing. I have a voltmeter reading directly from the battery and the readings are consistently 14.4V or so while the TT only reads in the low 13V range. As was mentioned before there's a possibility that your alternator is bad (ie. voltage regulator is shot and putting out too many volts causing fuses to blow)

 

[98spydert]

Ok I found out it was the fusable link for the headlights. I replaced it and the battery light and brake light went out on the dash and all the headlights and everything worked normal again while idling at Sears. The voltage went back to normal on the TT also. They tested the alternator and battery worked fine and tested good. Voltage output at the alternator was about 15v they said and amperage was good. I drove home and about a block from my house I flipped on the lights and pop, instantly blew the fuse again. Bought another and everythings great as long as the lights don't get turned on.

What should I check now? Where should I look for shorts?

 

[neilb]

is it a full moon tonight, mine did this exact thing tonight (except no blown lights) has yours been OK to drive without the lights as I can limp to and from work tomorrow if I have to.
fuseable link eh I tried switching 'em around but prob still persists. I did wash the car tonight, could a little bit of H2O in a light cause this?

cheers

 

[luv2rallye]

Does the fuse blow when you turn on the lights with the engine running or not running? This may be a clue. You obviously have a short when you turn the lights on. First I would temporarily replace the fuse that blows with a small 12 volt light bulb (temporarily wire it in). If you have a short (in that circuit to ground somewhere) the bulb will lite when you turn the light switch on. Then start removing the light relays, lights, bulbs, everything that is on that circuit (all the stuff that doesn't work when the fuse blows) one at a time until the bulb goes out. When it does that's your problem.

 

[98spydert]

Everthings fine when driving around during the day. As long as the lights don't turn on, everythings perfectly normal.

I just went out and flipped the lights on and POP, another $3 down the drain Anyways, yes it blows without the car running. I'm not following your light bulb test... I just woke up If theirs no fuse, the 12v light and the headlights, are going to stay on as long as the headlights are toggled on, even if the short is still there woudn't it? The only thing shutting the lights off and killing the circuit is the fuse. Maybe explain it a little better please, I just don't get it.

 

[Black_Stalon]

why dont you try disconnecting the headlights themselves, then turning on the switch.. thatd tell you if the short is in the headlights themselves or the wiring.

 

[luv2rallye]

If there's a short (to ground) somewhere in that circuit after the fuse (possibly when turning the light switch on), then temporarily (for testing only) replacing that fuse with a small 12 volt light bulb should make it lite (since the circuit is now complete back to the battery negative thru the short). The short would keep the headlights off but the test light on. Then you can start removing/disconnecting things until the light goes out which means you removed the short (so that circuit/item has the short).

 

[Black_Stalon]

First I would temporarily replace the fuse that blows with a small 12 volt light bulb (temporarily wire it in).

and defanitly dont do that

 

[luv2rallye]

and defanitly dont do that

I disagree. The small 12 volt light is just for testing to find a short. You don't leave it in. It's the easiest and the standard way to find shorts. But I agree disconnecting the headlights is the first thing he should try (along with light relays). I assumed he already tried this and everything else he can think of or he wouldn't be posting here. So he's looking for a way to locate a short when out of ideas or completely baffled.

 

[98spydert]

Ok, a few more notes. With the relays pulled nothing blows, with just the parking lights/tail lamps on, nothing blows. Low beams and high beams BOTH blow the fuse. Just pulling the turn signal lever foward while leaving the actual head light secection knob off so the high beams flash on blows the fuse. So what's between the fuse/relays and the bulbs? Just wires?

 

[98spydert]

Could running those "white" bulbs be doing this to me for some reason? I've had them for almost two years. My wife wanted them when she drove this car while I was in the Marines but there's never been a problem with them.... I should try and track down the stock bulbs or buy new ones

 

[98spydert]

And at the expense of yet another fuse (a 50amp I had laying around) it blows a fuse with the light bulbs all taken out so I guess it's not the stupid white headlights *sigh*

 

[luv2rallye]

So what's between the fuse/relays and the bulbs? Just wires?

Yup just wires. Unplug the headlights and try it. If the fuse doesn't blow, you've got a short in your headlight. If it does, the headlight relay is likely bad or there is a short in the wiring. Test the relay/wiring by trying one of the other ones of the same type (taillamp, fog, horn). White bulbs won't make any difference.

 

[98spydert]

I took the actual bulbs out and the fuse still blows. Is there a plug before the headlight assembly for the whole assembly? I didn't see it...

 

[luv2rallye]

The left headlights plug is gotten from under the car up behind the light. The right one is above the intercooler duct and can't be reached without removing it or removing the whole headlight assembly itself. If you removed all 4 bulbs from their sockets and still blow the fuse (when switching them on), then your short is either in the headlight relay or the wiring from that relay to the headlights. Try removing the headlight relay and plugging one of the other relays (taillamp, fog, or horn) in it's place as a test. If it now works, the headlight relay is bad. If fuse still blows, wiring has a short - check wiring and connectors to see if they are damaged and shorting to ground or to themselves (other wires in the plug).

 

[98spydert]

I ruled out the left head light and the relay. I couldn't get to the bottom bolt on the right headlight so I gave up. I'll have to try that one later (I followed the tech article but I just didn't see the bolt in there ). I opened up the bottom of the underhood fuse box and found the biggest rats next of wires I've seen in my life. I'll get back at it and let you know what I find. Thanks for all of your help.

 

[98spydert]

I managed to stick my hand all the way up above the intercooler by removing the foglight and using that hole. Waste of time anyways. Took off both fog lights and nothing. Finally I shreaded the harness after the fuse box and found a small wire way deep inside that had rubbed the wrong way and shorted out against something... Anyways, taped it up and all the wires around it and it's fixed now. I hope to God that doesn't happen again, it was the worst week in my cars life . Thanks for all of you help man.