The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

SS Brake Lines interfering and a strut has SLIPPED

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

cine135

Probationary Member
18
0
Feb 24, 2005
Los Angeles, California
Hello all,

My name's Joe, I'm basically a lurker here.
Let me take a minute to thank every moderator and expert for contributing thier valuable time to help the rest of the community out.

I've been in love with the 2G ever since I first laid eyes on it.
I started out with a GS and after a number of years of drooling after the turbo models, I bought one of my own. Please check out my list of mods for details.

So I finally got around to putting the gsx calipers on my car and while I was ordering them I bought some ss brake lines advertised as specifically for the eclipse.

Well, they fit, but there is an issue.

Basically the lines are about 2 inches too short of ideal.

Please refer to these images:

http://www.cinematicpictures.com/do..._brake_line_is interfering_and_stretching.JPG

http://www.cinematicpictures.com/do...rut/left_side_brake_line_proposed_bracket.JPG

As you can see the brake line is fitted to the caliper and solid line, but the location of the bracket midway through makes the route the line must take potentially dangerous.

The red circle shows the interference, and the green shape is a proposed bracket redesign to allow the line to make a beeline of sorts to the caliper without having to bend around the wishbone the long way.
If the line were routed behind the wishbone, everything would be happy.
I'm equipped with a mig welder and was going to go buy some strip steel and weld up a new bracket tomorrow before I put the wheels on.

Can someone please tell me if it's ok to run the line behind the wishbone?
From what I can tell it should be just fine.

Also, is it really necessary to have a bracket midway between the two points?, this SS line is pretty stiff by itself.

Here are some additional pictures of the line, and the right side install as well.

http://www.cinematicpictures.com/do..._brake_lines_and_strut/right_side_caliper.JPG

So please, any thoughts?

Can I just go ahead and fab up some brackets.

The reason I've replaced the calipers is (besides the upgrade) because the right side caliper was dragging like crazy, and when I finally puled it off to install the newer one, the brake line it was connected to was dry., I know for a fact my car has been stopping when I apply the brakes. But I didn't know it was only using one side.

Has anyone had a similar experience? Is this common?


So that was problem #1

Here is problem #2

I've noticed the that left side (drivers side) of the car had bumper damage from scraping the ground. upon inspection of the wheel well, it is apparent that the left side strut has slipped from it's base attachment and has interfered with the CV boot, so I'm facing a ruined CV joint (potentially) and at the very least some strut issues.

Please refer to this pic:

http://www.cinematicpictures.com/do...s_and_strut/left_side_struct_has_slippeed.JPG


Here is a pic of the strut on the right side of the car:

http://www.cinematicpictures.com/do...d_strut/right_side_strut_proper_clearance.JPG

Notice how there is some room above where the knuckle member joins to the strut tip.
I'm now afraid that will also slip and the right side CV boot will be ruined.

I've drawn a red circle where the left side strut tip touched the left side CV boot.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/images/attach/jpg.gif
I've also drawn a green square where I'm think a steel spacer could be slipped to prevent this from happening again.

Maybe a piece of gas or water pipe, I'de rather use aluminum but don't know where to look. I'd do this on both sides as insurance against CV boot failure, by interference.

Could someone please tell me what's happened to my left side strut?

Thank you all!
--Joe
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Well, your pictures are kind of big for us dial-up people, so I'll just go by the text... :)

I have SS lines on my '95 GSX, and I've noted that the fronts are very tight from the caliper to the mid-point bracket. However, they're not TOO tight. From there on up, they're a perfect fit. My problem was (is) with the rears... They're about 2 inches too long! They loop around and rub on the frame (even with the suspension at full droop)! I put some duct tape around them at the points of rubbing so that they'll slide easier across the frame, and I can keep inspecting it for any signs of rubbing through (none yet in 4 years).

Anyways, about those fronts... The mid-point bracket helps keep the lines from floating around, rubbing on things, or catching on something. If you modify that in any way, you need to make absolutely certain that there's plenty of extra room in ALL wheel angles and suspension compressions. I still can't recommend changing it though. Your measurements could be thrown out the window with different wheels/tires, etc. The safest way is to maintain the stock routing exactly.
 
Thanks for your quick reply.

I can't even turn the wheels fully in either direction. Looks like I'll have to re route the lines.
Simple eniough, and I'v been hoping to weld something on my car.

I'll be careful to inspect the line routing all full turn for both wheels and make any adjustments. Should be simple enough, I'll post back here if it's sucessful.

I still can't figure out why, the strut slipped down, please see photo of slipped strut interfering with the CV boot.

Any thoughts? Would a spacer work?

Thanks
--Joe
 
I still can't figure out why, the strut slipped down, please see photo of slipped strut interfering with the CV boot.

No clue... You'll just have to take it apart and see what's "different" from one side to the other. I'm not sure exactly what even holds it in place. If it's just friction, then perhaps it was just loose. Could be a broken tab or lip or something too. Dunno...
 
Hey,

So I went ahead and fabbed up some brake line holders from the original holder.
Just cut off the end that had the fingers and welded a 4 gauge thick nail to the bolt on portion, then bent it to where the line should be suspended, clamp end with the fingers back on, weld, and presto:


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


I'll post an install pic soon, probably going to paint them orange to match the caliper.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Last edited by a moderator:
All done!

Whew...

Ok, it's all done, all four discs and pads changed, new calipers are installed.
I stumbled on a dust and dirt issue regarding stainless steel brake lines.

Apparently plenty of people have had line failures due to dirt abrasion between the braids and teflon tubing. Not if I can help it.

I grabbed some of the 5/16" ID tubing I'd bought for bleeding, cut to size for the lines, slit it down the middle, slipped them on, and wrapped it up tight in electrical tape.

Now my lines are happy and protected, there's no danger of sudden brake failure due to suspension components yanking the lines.

Here are my install photos.


First the installed holders

Left side:
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Right side:
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Now the completed setups

Left side:
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Right Side:
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Here's the dust and dirt proofing I added just to be safe.
I'm only showing one side for brevity

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Here's the closeup of where I left it bare for flexibility/sliding purposes:
You must be logged in to view this image or video.



So there, even with shorter than comfortable brake lines, and without the plastic coated feature, you can easily (almost, it took 3 hours) put together a solid setup.

Now to figure out what the hell went wrong with my strut....
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Last edited by a moderator:
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top