spongy brake

[TalonTSIYHL]

i recently changed my back rotors and calipers/pads and also the front rotors and pads. i bleeded the brakes out of order when i installed them, and just bleeded them again today but in the right order. the brake pedal is still spongy, the first time i accedently let the reservoir get real low so do i need to bleed the master cylinder? what else could cause the spongy pedal. also is it normal for me to hear the pads against the rotors - like a ringing sound
thanks for the replies

 

[AWDPetmitsu]

Try bleeding it a few more times to get all of the air out of the system. When you bleed your brakes, don't press the pedal all the way down until it stops or you'll risk ripping the seals in the master cylinder. As for the ringing noise, I'm not sure what you're talking about, but you might hear a bit of grinding when you first use your brakes as the protective coating is being worn away. Also, it's a good idea to bed your pads and break them in properly.

 

[TalonTSIYHL]

ok thanks ill try again today,
"bed your pads and break them in properly?"

 

[AWDPetmitsu]

Yes. Take a look at this: http://www.hawkperformance.com/faq.cfm#Q2

 

[TalonTSIYHL]

so bedding is just making sure the applications are commpatable . . . say using Raybestos PG rotors with PG pads?

 

[TalonTSIYHL]

after spending all day sunday bleeding, the pedal is still spongy. when the car is running and im at a stop, i pump the brake to see if it will get hard but it doesnt, it keep the same amount of resistance. does anyone know wat could be the culprit?
thanks for the responses

 

[AWDPetmitsu]

Are you sure you're using the correct procedure to bleed the brakes and doing it properly?
How low did the fluid get in the master cylinder? You must have sucked an assload of air in.

 

[TalonTSIYHL]

when i bleed them there are very small bubbles, almost cant see them. ive been pumping the brake slow 3-4 times then opening the bleeder, i am using a piece of wood to wedge the pedal down while i open the screw. once fluid is flowing, i pump a hand vac to draw the fluid out. do i need to do something special since i have abs? is the synthetic valvoline brake fluid -that exceeds dot 3 and 4- ok? sometimes the screw is as air tight and the pump starts pulling air threw the threads but then i do the brake thing again. i tried using teflon tape but the brake fluid desolved it. im gonna check that the rubber brake lines are on tight.

 

[AWDPetmitsu]

I would suggest that you use the two person brake bleeding method. I think your method is letting air back into the system. I don't think it's necessary to bleed the master cylinder from what you described, but again, I don't know how low you let the fluid get in the reservoir. The procedure used to bleed ABS brakes is the same as a non-ABS system. The fluid you described is fine, as long as it's not DOT 5 spec. Again, using the two person method should solve your soft pedal.

 

[AWDlaserRS]

You know You can easily make a tool that will allow you to easily bleed the brakes yourself, because I agree that your method may be letting air in and also it sounds like a pain in the ass, Just take a length of vaccum hose and attatch it to the bleeder screw and run it into the bottle of brake fluid and just keep pumping the brakes until you think all the air is gone. Id fill the bottle. Obviously check the resovoir too while you are doing this. This way air can get out but not back in.

 

[TalonTSIYHL]

i bled the brakes without the hand vac and the pedal feels way better, not as good as a shops work but acceptable. it would prolly be better if i had had another person to help, but my pvc pipe did the job. thanks for all of your guys' input