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Snapped a turbo mounting bolt... what to do?

Posted by pneumagger, Sep 19, 2009

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  1. pneumagger

    pneumagger Probationary Member

    27
    0
    Joined Sep 13, 2009
    St. Pete Beach, Florida
    Well, my head removal quest continues. When I pulled off the top heat shield bolt I immediately noticed the back drivers side turbo bolts was not only loose, but only a few turns from removal - I think the heat shield was keeping the bolt in there. Also, the front passenger side bolt was not a mitsu OEM bolt but a regular hex bolt.

    3 of the four bolts came out easily but the drivers side front bolt snapped. It took some ummph to break it free and then after about one turn it became difficult to remove. I worked it in and out a little bit and then tried to continue bolt removal when it snapped. It snapped right about where the threads begin on the bolt, so I can't imagine there's a whole lot of stud sticking out of the turbo.

    The other 3 bolts are dry so I doubt antisieze was used when the new turbo went in (only 20k miles ago) and since the other drivers side bolt was basically removed, I'll bet the combination of no AS and more stress F'ed up that bolt.

    Would a fastener removal kit work once I get the manifold off the head/turbo - or should I drill the the little shit out to about 9mm and chase the threads?
    I'm thinking some pb blaster and large removal bit might work since it was broken free about 1 turn before it decided to break.

    How much would it cost a shop to remove it for me if I cant?
     
  2. viprez586

    viprez586 Proven Member

    1,007
    16
    Joined Aug 10, 2006
    New Berlin, Wisconsin
    Drill it out to the appropriate size and use drill extractors - they are reverse drill bits you use by hand. I believe you should use EX-3 or EX-2. They're made by Irwin.
    You will want to use a combination of PB blaster and a blow torch, hell even use a oxy/acetylene torch would make things easier. The bolts are hardened so good luck. May want to consider sending it out to professionals who see that kind of stuff day in and day out. Probably cost you at most $20 and save you a headache.

    Upon putting the new studs in, use OEM bolts, toss the stud, and use 3M copper anti-seize on the threads. The silver stuff will melt away fast and gall the threads next time you take them out.
     
  3. TFFC

    TFFC Proven Member

    134
    1
    Joined Apr 9, 2005
    Chino, California
    Put some Map Gas or Propane heat to the housing, and let it get warm. Then if you can get vice grips on it, clamp on tight and turn it out....If its in the housing you can use a punch/chisel and hammer and try and spin it out. Has worked for me several times, Its better to try, than to just start drilling and possibly make a bigger project
     

    497  0

    1991 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX
    automatic · 1G DSM
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  4. pneumagger

    pneumagger Probationary Member

    27
    0
    Joined Sep 13, 2009
    St. Pete Beach, Florida
    I got a look at the bolt in the housing... it's ooly just barely sticking out... Maybe 1mm or so.
    Certainly not enough to grasp onto.

    I could probably dremel a slot into the top of it, hit it with som ePB blaster and a torch after a little while.
    But I doubt a screwdriver will back it out.

    If the drill/extract method doesn't work, I'll just have to keep stepping up drills until I drill out the bolt and then chase the threads out. :|
     
  5. viprez586

    viprez586 Proven Member

    1,007
    16
    Joined Aug 10, 2006
    New Berlin, Wisconsin
    Usually that's whats your going to have to do. Just make sure your centered good. Eventually you can get to the point where the bolt is so thin you can get a fine tip punch in there and knock it out without screwing up the threads.

    Breaking bolt's on my dsm made me very proficient at the whole dilemma.
    Learning when to stop before you break the bolt off.
    Spraying PB before hand.
    Use heat.
    Slightly tighten the bolt before you try loosening it to break off the initial rust.
    Almost use the bolt as a tap - un-tighten until you feel resistance, then chase it back in to clear out the rust.
    Drilling the bolt out without ruining a drill bit.
    And lastly tap the threads and apply copper anti-seize.
     
  6. Imback

    Imback Proven Member

    1,148
    21
    Joined Nov 8, 2006
    Elmont, New York
    It would cost you about 15 bucks to have a machine shop do it for you if that. But if your set on doing it your self a oxy/acc torch is your friend.
     

    697  0

    1995 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    manual · 2G DSM
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  7. tomrjones

    tomrjones Probationary Member

    11
    0
    Joined May 23, 2009
    Cocoa, Florida
    I would do what viprez586 said in his first post. I know you have to take your time and drill it out, but if you make a mistake the worst thing you would have to do is tap the hole again.
     

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