Slow Acceleration/Bog Help

[TSIHero]

Car Specs:

95 TSI FWD Automatic
Mods:

Air Intake /w K&N
Upper IC Pipe /w 1G Bov
Joe P Boost Controller
Blitz Turbo Timer/Boost Gauge

With that being said on bad tires I pulled this time:

0-60 mph 5.7
1/4 14.23 @ 102 mph

So basically I took it home one day and decided to do some maintanace. I took the air off and retightened down all the clamps and everything and put it back together. I turned the boost down because it was close to 17 psi and I rolled it back to like 14. I took it out a few days later and my 0-60 was in the 7's now. So I turned the boost back up and it never got any faster. It's alot slower and this was like an over night occurance.

I did a boost leak check and had two leaks. One on the LICP clamp and one on the BOV and fixed them both. It didn't fix it though.

What is happening in the car is it is spooling alot slower. I used to watch my gauge (kpa) and when it hit .35 (about 5 psi) i'd launch the car. It would take off like a bat out of hell. As it sits now when I power brake it it spools slower than before. So if I drop it at .35 kpa there isn't enough boost pressure under it to make it launch like it did before. I now have to drop it at .40 or .45 to equal what it used to be.

Now I tried a run last night and dropped it at .45 and what happened you ask? The car sat still and didn't move. It revved, I slammed the gas and dropped the brake and the car sat there for a second, not moving. And then it started moving like there was a HUGE amount of turbo lag. I think it took me 10 seconds to hit 0-60 that is how slow it was moving.

Just to let you know, I changed the plugs and the wires a few days ago just to see if that would fix this problem and it didn't obviously.

Me and my buddies are totally clueless as to what would cause this almost overnight drop in speed.

Just to sum up:

-Car has very slow acceleration when you launch it
-Drives normal any other time. If i'm on the highway and punch it, it takes off. It's not AS fast and pulls slower than it used to but its still driveable.
-Boost Leak test done and fixed/new plugs and wires capped correctly.
-Don't have a logger to check the ECU.
-I checked the engine over at least 10 times and there is no lines off anywhere.

Any Ideas?

 

[WMU DSMgirl]

Sounds like a similar problem I had when my MAS wasn't plugged all the way in. If CEL is on, check the MAS. If it's not that try and get a hold of a logger. Don't know anyone with one? Take the car into Autozone, they'll diagnose for free. Good luck!

 

[oldman]

Any Ideas?

I did a boost leak check and had two leaks. One on the LICP clamp and one on the BOV and fixed them both. It didn't fix it though.

A boost leak test isn't complete until it's able to hold 20 psi for at least 30 seconds.

 

[TSIHero]

Can you be more specific. I followed the instructions here:

http://www.vfaq.com/index-main.html

I removed my air intake, disconnect the MBC. That left the BOV open since there's no recirculator pipe on it anymore. We put in 20 psi at first nonstop air stream and it ended up blowing off the tester. We turned it down to around 12 and it held fine and then started looking for leaks. The excess air was coming out the open bov.

The only two leaks I had I fixed and they don't leak anymore. Now you were saying it's not complete unless I can hold 20 psi for 30 seconds or more?

How should I go about doing that. Put 20 psi in, take the air supply off and see if it drops? Should the BOV be open or should I put something over it?

 

[oldman]

I did a boost leak check and had two leaks. One on the LICP clamp and one on the BOV and fixed them both. It didn't fix it though.

My bad, I thought you meant the attemp on fixing the leaks was unseccessful but I understand now.

The only two leaks I had I fixed and they don't leak anymore. Now you were saying it's not complete unless I can hold 20 psi for 30 seconds or more?

That is correct.

How should I go about doing that. Put 20 psi in, take the air supply off and see if it drops? Should the BOV be open or should I put something over it?

Since it's well known that the 2g bov will leak at about 12psi, it would be a good idea to seal the bov. I remember helping someone whom used a D size battery some how.

I took the air off and retightened down all the clamps and everything and put it back together.

In reading your post again, I have a question about what this mean?

If the problem only just started immediately after last work done, the problem should be related to the work done. Complete the leak test and post back if problem persists so we can run other tests.

 

[TSIHero]

If you look in my original post, I swapped the 2G BOV out for a 1G BOV.

But:

We put a constant 12 psi pressure into the car because when we'd take the pressure off it would leak out of the car via the leaks. I think the BOV (1g) was leaking out the extra air we were putting in actually. You could feel the air coming out. I assume this was due to the fact that were putting in a constant 12 psi nonstop that it needed to get rid of it somehow and did it via the BOV.? If I taped it off, would it still be safe to do it this way?

I guess my other question about doing a leak test is:

1st one: what did you do with the BOV, leave it open or tape it.
2nd: What do you do with the turbo nipple and wastegate (where I run my MBC).. I unplugged the line that goes to the turbo (from the MBC) and capped it. That line I just left open. It goes to the MBC then to the wastegate. Thats okay right? The wastegate doesn't leak air through its nipple does it?

Okay then I do my leak test. And everythings fine now. But still has the slowness factor. The only thing that happened were:

I took the air intake (word I forgot, sorry) off. This consists of the air filter, tube and I took off all the clamps and put them back together to fit better. I wasn't happy with how they were sitting. I put it back on and turned down the boost. The next time I went to run the car, it started running slow. So something happened between when I got home from running it and this.

I will check the OBD2 this weekend. First I went to autozone and they were like "we won't check it because your check engine light isn't on." So I was rather mad and went to advance and they gave me a tester. Now correct me if im wrong but on a 2g, is there a way to reach the OBD2 connector WITHOUT taking the dash apart? I looked under the wheel and didn't see a panel or it sticking out anywhere like in the 1G.

This is a frustrating problem indeed.

 

[TSIHero]

I think I fixed the problem somewhat.

I took the air intake apart again and remember that when I initially did it I reversed the rubber piece because I thought the one end that gripped around the turbo was too large and it might be cause a leak. Well I flipped it around again and got it clamped really well. Made sure the Mass Air Sensor was connected properly and put it all back together and went for a run. It's no longer bogging down when I drop it, its spooling alot fast and really pulling hard at 16/17 psi.

So I think I found the cause but I still don't understand the reasoning. With that being said, at least its nothing major and just a clamp issue. Wish I had a g-tech handy.

 

[oldman]

Good deal, you found the problem before I responded. Like I've mentioned above, problems started after work done is usually related to the work done.

So I think I found the cause but I still don't understand the reasoning.

Because you were pulling un-metered air.