seriously need dsmwise man advice

[dsmcurse]

hey guys, i posted on here a couple weeks ago about how i rebuilt my engine and it wouldn't start by the key, and how it only had 75-80 psi compression. the regulars on here should remember me. so i did the tow start on the car with 450 injectors. the thing came right to life.

i let the clutch out in 2nd gear very nice and easy the truck was towing me only like 15 mph. like i said the thing came right to life started right up i was so happy. we stopped and pushed the car 20 ft back into my drive way in front of my shop. i only intended on letting car run for a few min cause the only belt that was on was the timing belt. the serp belt wasn't on so i had no alt or water pump. and yes the engine was full of water and oil.

the reason my serp belt was off was cause my water pump was leaking. the thing was really new when my motor blew last year. the water pump had maybe 15k on it so i re-used it on the rebuild and to my surprise the little weep hole thing just barley drips water out it. so this is why i had no serp belt on. the whole timing cover was off cause i intended on replacing the water pump the next day (which is now today of course).

the other thing is that my battery was VERY low. before i even did the tow start the volt meter only showed 10.8V. so like i said, i started it and ran it in front of my house barely 2 min and then the thing went CLUNK! and shut off. when this happened it was running at like 15-1600rpm. i thought the no battery juice situation killed my motor. you know low battery any how, with no alt. so i pushed car in shop and called it a day.

today i go to the shop after work with my new battery and new water pump and im SO excited to put the thing together and have my eclipse again. i easily pull the timing belt off cause like i said the cover was already off. as im working on the thing for what ever reason i grab the OIL PUMP GEAR with my fingers and im gonna turn it. THE THING IS SO TIGHT IT WONT TURN BY HAND! what the heck i think! it wasn't like this when i put it together. it has the B-shaft eliminator kit. it wasn't homemade like some people do. when i put it together i used assembly lube on the two small gears inside of it. it turned fine when the motor was on the engine stand.

so i think the CLUNK that shut my engine off was not do to a no battery thing. i think it was cause the oil pump got tight. it turns but i have to use a wrench to turn it. i emptied the oil out a pan no shavings. im gonna pull it apart tomorrow after work im to overwhelmed to do it today. WHAT THE HELL HAPPENED? i know you guys aren't telepathic mind reading miracle over the internet engine fixers but dang. sorry for the long post and thanks for reading. i really wanna know if any one else has had their oil pump get tight for some un-know reason. what the heck happened? my next thing that i did was called NAPA to ask how much a new 1990 eclipse turbo oil pump was.

Guy's, they wanted to know if it was auto or 5speed. what the hell i said. what diff does that make a oil pump is a oil pump tranny is complete other side nothing to do with oil pump i said. i know these guys just fill in the blanks on the computer, but he goes on to tell me that there is indeed a difference. and that the auto pump is $159 and the 5spd pump is $290. holly hell! over a hundred dollar difference. why is this. it was late and i didn't have time to call a different parts house to confirm this but i shouldn't have to NAPA is the most reliable place in this area. shucks and autozone have high school kids working there. napa has machine shop with old grey haired been there done that mechanics. please some one tell me the difference in auto pump and 5spd, if any. again sorry so long and really really mean thanks to any intelligent answers

 

[5150DSM]

When you rebuilt the motor did you re-use the old oil pump? If so, did you check the side clearance and examine the case for grooves? The standard side clearance for the oil pump is as follows:
Drive gear: 0.08-0.14mm(.0031-.0055") Driven Gear: 0.06-0.12mm(.0024-.0047") If you are outside of these specs, then the oil pump needs to be replaced. I am not aware of any difference between the auto and manual oil pumps. You can get an OEM pump from OEM Mitsubishi Parts for $193.00

 

[justinschmiidt]

I also agree there is no difference In the oil pump auto vs. manual.

You say you didn't use a homemade BSE kit, is it safe to assume you used the oem components then? If so did you torque the stubby shaft to recommended specs? And did you use atleast red loctite on the stubby shaft bolt?

I have had the gears be too tight to turn by hand after I over torqued the stubby.

Good luck hope I helped.

 

[rush2252]

The explanation for the question about the pump is simple. Human error. I worked at autozone Oreillys and Napa for a breif period of time. For some unknown reason it would link you to the N/T oil pump whenever you selected Auto as opposed to manual. I can only assume this is the issue. There is NO difference in the oil pump on the auto vs manual to my knowledge.

 

[96eclipzGsT]

I had this happen to me with a brand new oil pump. Where the end of the balance shaft goes into the oil pump it locked up somehow and also ripped about 6 teeth off my timing belt. It would still start, but would barely run.

 

[brian9397gsx]

if you used a cheap kit i could see you having problems. i recently did a bse kit for a guy he bought some cheapo kit the stub shaft barely fit through th back of the housing. point being some of those cheapo kits are not worth using. also if your timing belt was to tight it can cause oil pump failure

 

[MOTOR-RX]

I just went in shop and looked. I have two motors on stands one auto and one i just pulled yesterday manual. and both oil pumps look to be the same. even though one i in 2 pieces due to blown motor

 

[dsmcurse]

thanks for the advice. and could you elaborate on if the timing belt is to tight it could ruin the oil pump? i have never even considered that befor. when i instal my t-belt i make sure all marks are perfect of corse, then i slip belt into place. you know the adjuster puley, not the ideler one that cant move but the one that the tensioner pushes on? its hole is off set and when you loosen the bolt on it with a 14mm wrench you can move that wheel around. i always push that thingg super tight makin the belt tight. then i pull the little allen wrench out (lil staight through pin that holds tensioner compressed when puttin belt on). my t belt is always pretty tight. ive always done it like this. could this of ruined my belt?

 

[rush2252]

I believe the timing belt calls for like 1/4 in deflection. If its overtight it can damage the oil pump

 

[malibu80]

Is it possible you could hook up a mechanical pressure gauge to your oiling system to double check you get oil pressure? Restriction to cooler? Nasty filter? worn bearings? are you leaking oil anywhere? Just some thoughts...