Serious problem after rebuilt head

[boostedgst2984]

ok i bent all the valves and i had the head completly rebuilt. i reinstall head and everything set the timing. i rotated engine through 6 cycles and everythign lined up. i go to fire up the engine and it starts up then after 3 min the crank bolt comes out and the harmonic balancer rubs the frame and stops the engine. so i fix that recheck timing and reset it. then i get to fire it up. it starts runs for 5 -10 sec then dies imedatly. Then i reset the ecu and start it and it starts up fine and runs for 5 min then i shut off and try to start same problem starts runs for 5- 10 sec then dies. Then i reset the ecu then and it started then i had it running. It was running a little rough because of no balance shafts and ticking because of new head. but when the revs got to 2000rpm the engine smoothed out and idled at 2000 fine. Then about 15 min or idling it stops and it wont start back up. What could this be please help me.

 

[boostedgst2984]

please anyone

 

[dls93tsi]

Are you gettin any CEL's?
When it dies does it deisel at all or does it just shut off?
are you sure all your plug wires are on right?
are you 110% sure you hooked everything up perfect?
CAS set correctly?

just some things that come to mind, maybe it will help

 

[boostedgst2984]

i know i have my cas hooked up right cuz i tried to hook it up differently and car wouldnt start.

No the car just shuts off out of no where.
the cas shouldn't be off 180 degrees if it ran for 15 min you think or what??
yea i have the plug wires on right and i dont get and cel's i

i have a 92 motor is there any sensor down near the crank shaft??

 

[boostedgst2984]

ok update yesterday when it died after 15min of idle she wouldnt start back out almost saounded like back fire. now today i tested the cas and i think i dont get any voltage from the signal wire. Then i try to start it for shits and she starts back up runs for 5-10 sec and dies so i am thinking its the cas. Can anyone help me confirm it before i go out and buy this part

 

[boostedgst2984]

is there anyone in the md area that is willing to come out and help me with this problem

 

[boostedgst2984]

ok figured somethign else out i am not getting spark or fuel to cyl 1 and 4 what could cause that

 

[luv2rallye]

Bad coil, power transistor, or ECM

 

[boostedgst2984]

how does the ecu/coil go from good before the swap to after the swap i checked the ecm and it looks good no busted capicators but how you check the coil or other thing you mentiioned

 

[luv2rallye]

Well stranger things have happened - things get bumped/vibrated loose, wire connectors fail, voltage spikes blow ECM's, etc.

If you for sure are not getting spark on 1&4 but for sure do on 1&3, there are only 4 possibilities: Bad 1&4 coil, bad power transistor, faulty ignition wiring/connectors, or bad ECM. And if for sure you only have injectors 1&3 firing (use stethoscope on them to check) and not 1&4, then it sure sounds like a bad ECM since that is the only one thing that could produce all these effects. ECM's can go bad for more reasons than just bad capacitors in them. You can't tell by just looking at them. I would first unplug the ECM and check/clean it's connectors, and retry it. Also make sure each pin in each connector is "locked" in place so that it doesn't get pushed in when the connector is put on. If still no go, try/borrow another ECM.

There is another current post on here as to how to ohm a coil pack (for a 1g but 2g is similiar) if you want to test it (but that wouldn't stop your injectors - only the ECM or wiring can do that).

 

[boostedgst2984]

well i took the spark plugs out of cyl 1 and 4 and i had no fuel comming out in a mist when i crank it over a few times. and when i remove the wires from 1 and 4 the idle doesnt change

 

[boostedgst2984]

some one please help me out i am willing to pay for someone's services if they come out and help my fix it

 

[boostedgst2984]

man i dunno what to do anymore and i dont have the money to buy the componets and them not to be it. does anyone live in the baltimore dc area

 

[luv2rallye]

Let's see - all expenses paid from Mpls to DC would be....

As I said with no spark coming from 1&4 it can only be bad 1&4 coil, bad power transistor, faulty ignition wiring/connectors, or bad ECM (which is the most likely considering your lack of fuel in the same cyl).

Here is how to check the coil, power transistor, spark plug wires but you will need a multimeter (eg. from Radio Shack). I don't know of any way to test the ECM other than try another (you could try emailing this guy for ECM ideas: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=116585 ).

This is right out of my 99 GST Mitsubishi manual and should work for your 2g turbo car (pardon the amateur photos but it's all I can do).

 

[boostedgst2984]

i need someone to come over experienced with dsm to give me a hand with this electrical stuff

 

[luv2rallye]

No you can test these things. Just follow the spark plug wires to the coil. The power transistor and connectors are right next to them. My pics are for a 2g motor however.

One thing bothers me - your listed as having a 95 (2g) yet you said you put a 92 (1g) motor in. Did you put a 92 motor in a 95 or do you have 2 separate dsm's? If 92 in a 95 I believe you will have major problems if you didn't swap ECM's to match and even then I doubt the wire harness will match. Also, turbos use different ECM than N/T [see ECU part #s for 1g turbos: http://www.vfaq.com/FAQlocator-index.html]. So do you have the correct ECM?

 

[boostedgst2984]

well all the sensors were swaped form the 95 enigne to the 92 engine and i have the 95 harness and 95 ecu. my erngine ran fine before the swap fully boostin and everything no problems with the ecu or anything else. i didnt do the swap. the guy i bought it from did the swap. it ran fine till the timing belt snaped

 

[boostedgst2984]

is there anyone out there willing to help me out please

 

[luv2rallye]

well all the sensors were swaped form the 95 enigne to the 92 engine and i have the 95 harness and 95 ecu. my erngine ran fine before the swap fully boostin and everything no problems with the ecu or anything else. i didnt do the swap. the guy i bought it from did the swap. it ran fine till the timing belt snaped

I'm still confused as to what you've got, had, and when what was done to which engine. You first had a 95 GST with the 95 original 4G63 turbo engine correct? Then you say you bent valves and rebuilt head. Was this due to the timing belt snap? Was this on the 95 engine before the 92 engine? Or did you put in a 92 engine and it ran fine until the timing belt snap? Is the 92 engine the 4G63 turbo? If you have a 95 (2g) car with 2g harness and ECU, why did you put in a 1g engine and expect it to work? ECU's are different between the two (I believe 1g engine requires a 1g ECU, 2g requires 2g ECU). Also the 95's are all California emissions compliant where the 92 will not be unless originally made for California (so they will have different ECU's). And the 95 has two O2 sensors, the 92 does not (so again 2 different ECU's). There also have been ECU code changes between 92 and 95. You say you swapped the 95 sensors to the 92 - how do you know they are even compatable since the ECU's have changed? I'm not an expert on a 2g to 1g engine change but I sure have suspicions about compatiblity of the ECU, harness, and sensors. I would recommend PMing Doug99RS (Chysler mechanic) or crankbender about this. Does anyone out there have knowledge about 2g to 1g engine change in a 2g car?

 

[boostedgst2984]

arrrrr I had a 46g3 in there to begin with 6 bolt 92 engine in my 95 gst brand new completly fresh rebuild everyting new. and i had about 5000 miles on it when this happened. And i am where i am today. Thier was never the orginal engine in this car since march of this year. It has had the 6bolt in it since then and ran fine until then

 

[boostedgst2984]

Thier was no problems what so ever when the swap was done. i have all the 2g sensors on this engine for the most part. And i could careless about ca emissions as i live on the other coast in MD and emissions doesnt concern me. I have the 95 ecu and the 95 harness and i had no problems what so ever until the timing belt snaped.

 

[luv2rallye]

ok sorry - now I understand - I think. You always had the 92 engine and it ran fine until TB snapped. After replacement (and I assume that's when the head/valves were redone) it ran about 15 min. but now it doesn't have spark/fuel in 1&4 and won't run at all. And you appear confident that the coils, power transistor, and ECU are ok. Just guessing (and honestly trying to help with suggestions) could it be that your crank angle sensor has gotten intermittent, damaged, or perhaps worked loose? Crank angle sensors have been known to sometimes get damaged on the 4G63 when the TB snaps since they are right next to it on the crankshaft sprocket. (I know the cam angle sensor is used for spark timing but I've always suspected that the crank angle sensor must also be there - perhaps without it the ECU gets fooled and only fires 2&3). Remove the bottom TB cover and check it (to see if it's all there, in proper position, and tight). The electrical connector for it is just rear of the upper TB cover. Let me know if this helps.

 

[boostedgst2984]

i would like to know where the crank angle sensor is cuz i dont have one on the engine at all. or i just can't find it. I guess im dumb or its hiding from me. A pic or where it would be would be nice to see if anyone has one cuz i looked for it and couldnt find it

 

[luv2rallye]

You can't see it from the outside. It's inside the bottom timing belt cover next to (about 2:00 oclock position) the crankshaft spocket that the timing belt goes around. The crankshaft sprocket has a sensing blade attached that rotates thru the crank angle sensor. Look just rear of the middle TB cover and you will see the 3 wire plug coming up that goes to it (thru the lower TB cover). To get the bottom TB cover off you would have to (somewhat of a job) remove LF wheel, lower left engine splash shield, all accessory belts, the water pump pulley, A/C compressor tensioner bracket, and the crank pulley first. Then 9 bolts hold the cover - comes out the bottom.