The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support Kiggly Racing
Please Support STM Tuned

Running a Capacitor

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

mikelv

15+ Year Contributor
566
10
Jun 17, 2006
Columbus, Georgia
I am currently in the middle of a large re-wiring project.
I came across an old Stinger 1 Farad Cap I had kicking around and got an idea.

What would the benefits/consequences be to run this thing in series with the alternator? I understand the initial purpose of the Capacitor with a larger stereo system in order to maintain voltage within the car's electrical system, but I'm not going to run a large stereo.(Or any radio for that matter).

If I ran this in series, if it would actually help the alternator, would I run it after the alternator fuse, or hard wire another fuse?

Guess this might seem like a silly question or pointless idea, but just wondering if it might help the electrical system in general. Thanks for any input from the electrical gurus.
 
Well, you wouldn't want to run it in series. You would get no current out of it. :)

A capacitor is really only going to be helpful if you're planning on having large transient loads. That's why it helps with a large stereo system. When you get a large load (bass note that draws a lot of current to move a large sub) the cap will act as a battery, being able to deliver current to the sub without having to demand all that current from your alternator. If you aren't planning on having large loads over a short amount of time, the cap won't really do you much good.
 
Ha ha, yeah silly me. Just a thought, was wondering if it would help keep the electrical systems steady under load. Such as a large horsepower application.
 
It does have an impact on your electrical system. You know when people complain about there lights dimming out and there stereo is up real loud, a cap save the coponets. What a Cap does is it stores like a charge in it, say for instance you have some booming bass not only will you get better sound out of it but it won't draw power from your other electrical coponets. If you need help wireing it up just let me know and I'll help you out. I habe one for 2 12's on the stock batt and alt and have no issues what so ever.
 
Try it out. If anything it will drown out electrical noise. Your fuel pump will probably be the only thing seeing performance gains though. It should help keep your voltage from dropping at higher rpms when your alternator is out of its efficiency range.
 
Thanks for the information. Yes I understand the purpose of a Capacitor, just wondering if it would help when the engine systems are drawing larger currents to keep the alternator from losing power. I'm not running a stereo or anything, just looking to keep the engine's electrical system from having a voltage drop under heavy load. Sort of a stop-gap if ever needed. Actually I don't have a radio at all in the car.

I only brought it up cause I had this nice Cap kicking around and wondering if I could put it to use.
 
I look at it this way, other than a small weight gain, and an extra component to shock the crap out of you, it's not going to hurt having it in system. I imagine the consistancy your fuel pump would see would have some benefit.
 
Well it looks like it's a go then. :thumb:
I'll write something up on it if it turns out well. I'll post my hospital admission form if it doesn't.
 
If you want to keep your lights from dimming then just reground your car, and if you want more power consider a Saturn alt.
 
I will be running a Jegs battery relocation kit mounted in the hatch with 2 guage wire, and use 0 guage wire for grounding the battery. I also have a Stinger distrubution block that I will be wiring on the firewall that will be used as a grounding unit for all engine grounds. They will all be consisting of 0 guage wire as well.

I would like to run this Cap in the trunk off the battery just to ensure no power loss anywhere in the electrical system under heavy load. I have also hardwired my fuel pump with 8 guage wire that will go right to the battery.

Does someone have the links to where all the engine grounds are?

EDIT----

Okay I'm going to try and explain the wiring setup as best I can because I suck at drawing pictures on the computer.

Okay, first I will run a 2 guage power cable from the alternator to the fueable link (fuse box) From there I will continue to run the 2 guage wire and make a linked connection (solder) to the starter motor. That's how I will link everything that needs power under the hood. From there I will run the 2 guage wire to the trunk down the passenger side to a kill switch (125A) from Jegs. I will then continue to run the 2 guage power cable to a power distribution block. From the power block, it has three power outputs. I will run those three power outputs to 1) The battery, 2) the fuel pump 3) The power Cap. The battery and cap will continue to use the 2 guage wire I have and fuel pump will be using the 10 guage wire out of the distribution block.
All three units will run grounds of 0 guage wire into a distrubution block which will be grounded to the frame with 0 guage as well.

What am I missing here??

Thanks for all the replies guys!


EDIT--- I don't think it really matters but I will run the battery positive terminal to the center input of the distrubution block. Other than that everything should be the same. Including the seal box with kill switch and ventalation tube.
 
That sounds good. i was also thinking of doing :)the same thing. i think when your at a light and your have your brakes and headlights on your voltage wont drop and it will be steady.
 
Just thought I would give some info. I recently put a 1 farad capacitor running to the battery and its helpd out my light dimming problem greatly my rpms don't drop at all anymore . I have my fan running on a switch that's on all the time so when I turn the switch my lights would dim and rpms drop . Now with the capacitor its all gone. And I think my light have become brighter now.
 
run it from your battery or alternator they are both connected to each other at the positive post what you can do is rewire your fuel pump to the capacitor because the capacitors voltage is much more flexable than your battery this will exspecially help if your running dual walboros, external fuel pump or any other kind of high current drawing fuel pump just something to think about that you can use it for and yes it does work
 
Damn you'd have to run 2,200 capacitors to equal a battery. Its worthless then the time it takes to install one.
 
I hope you realize a cap is just a band-aid, We used to do a big 3 upgrade. The upgrade include's upgrading to larger gauge wire on all the grounds. This is one of the proper ways to fix voltage PROBLEMS. I realize what you are trying to do, but IMO it's pretty useless.

Darren
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top