Routing coolant lines.

[matt98eclipse]

Hey guys im deleting pretty much all my coolant lines and not sure how i should plug or route the lines. I have deleted my FIAV,Heatcore and coolant lines for stock turbo since now i will be running a oil cooled turbo only.

So how should i run or cap all my coolant lines?

 

[snowborder714]

You don't have to do anything to the FIAV nipple. I personally pulled mine and welded them shut, but that's not necessary. You do have to do something with the nipple sticking off the water pipe that led to the FIAV. I tried to cap it with a rubber coolant cap, but that blew. So I got it welded up. Same thing with the FIAV nipple in the thermostat housing - it's welded shut.

You have to loop the heater core ends with a 1g setup (2g is not required).

Not sure what to tell you for the turbo lines since I haven't messed with this.

 

[Flash]

It's best to weld it shut. You won't face any problems with it down the road. I did that on my car for a few coolant feed nipples.

 

[matt98eclipse]

Awesome guys so my best bet is to just weld all the holes shut.

 

[BoostedTalonTS]

I just ran a small hose from the thermostat housing directly to the lower heater hardline nipple for the FIAV coolant bypass initially...

Having also gone to a dry center section 50 trim some time ago, you could go hit the wrecking yards & find any 1g NT thermostat housing & coolant hard pipe... Neither of these have the coolant line connections for a wet center section turbo.

 

[Boosted98gsx]

I looped the two lines that would otherwise go to the FIAV. You have to remember, these are normally allowed to free flow, just flow through the FIAV so it can reduce idle when you car warms. It is probably best to loop them, so that you can reduce backpressure on your water pump while the tstat is closed.

 

[matt98eclipse]

Awsome guys thanks for the help. Does anyone have some more pics oh how they routed there water lines.

 

[need2boostpsi]

guess i'm looking for the same advice. I bought some heavy duty vacuum caps and ran them for a month well today i noticed that they are starting to harden and crack. was wishing someone new of some heavy duty coolant plugs that could withstand heat and pressure. I don't really want to weld them shut because A) i suck at welding, B) all i have is a 1978 Lincoln ARC welder, C) i dont want coolant, instead i would rather have some leak out while swapping caps.

 

[snowborder714]

I bought caps specially made for blocking off coolant ports and the one still blew open. I didn't personally weld mine, but instead bought spare parts, had them welded, and am now swapping them on my engine.

 

[matt98eclipse]

Hey guys do you know were i can buy a plug for the water pipe. I wanna plug the hole for the coolant line on the water cooled turbos but cant seem to find the what type of thread it is on the water pipe.

Thanks.

 

[turbosax2]

EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts - Water Pipe Bolt Plug : Mitsubishi Eclipse 90-99 Turbo

 

[Auto RS T]

After doing some searching on the actual size of the bolt to plug the water pipe, I came up with all kinds of answers in the forums from npt, to spt, to bpt, to 14x1.5. Now, it can't be them all, so this is what I gathered.

It seems that the 1G and 2G water pipe have different sized threaded ports going to the turbo from the information that I did get. However, I don't have a 2g pipe to confirm. (please see post #13) Thanks Turbosax!

The 1g waterpipe is actually 16mm x1.5. To confirm the sizing on the 1g pipe I threaded a banjo bolt from a 90 oil cooler housing into the pipe (16mm x1.5). It went in with ease. Here's a picture that shows a 16x1.5 tap threaded into the waterpipe for the visual.

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[turbosax2]

2g's have different water pipes than 1g's. The turbo water line goes to the block:

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The banjo bolt threads into this fitting, which threads into the block:

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The banjo bolt itself is 14x1.5x27. The fitting that goes into the block is 3/8" BSPT.