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Redneck garage presents: Painting your hood with duplicolor

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Spoolin4Ever

15+ Year Contributor
1,142
14
Apr 24, 2005
Moses Lake, Washington
Well as most people with a 1G probably are aware; the paint on these cars sucks, and tends to fade and crack really bad, especially on the top parts of the car, like the hood.

In my case, it was starting to look really nasty, mainly on the hood. I mean it was really quite noticeable.

I have owned a 1G in the past, and we rattle canned that one also (it was black), so I learned a few things from that experience.

Generally you have about 3 options when it comes to having it painted:

1. A professional shop; this will probably cost you at least $1000. Well this was out of the question; don't have the money, AND don't want to put that much money into the car.

2. Maaco; they do a so-so job, probably cost about $200 (just for the hood) with tax. Only problem is I really don't trust other people with my car anymore, and the quality of their paint is not that great.

3. Rattle can; cheaper, and at least if I screw it up, I only have myself to blame. Total cost including primer, color, and clear; about $60 (I already have some sandpaper, but add $5 for sanpaper if you don't).

My car is that medium color metallic blue. I found the PERFECT match for it, Duplicolor "Intense Blue Pearl", part number T359.

Here's how muuch supplies you need:

Primer: 4 cans (it seems to take quite a bit of primer, because you need to fill in the cracked exsiting paint).

Color: also about 4 cans, by the end of the 3rd can, it's pretty close to being done, and by the time you are half way done with the 4th can, it's hard to tell what areas need more, in other wards, it's pretty well done.

Clear coat: 2 cans (tghe more paint you have on the car, the less it takes). You can use more if you want additional coats.

Here's what you do:

1. Sand the existing paint using 320 grit sand paper. Do NOT sand all the way to metal. Just sand enought to get off some of the surface cracked paint, and get it feeling nice and smooth when you feel it with your hand.

Wipe off the stuff you sanded with a dry towel, then wipe it off again with a tack cloth (it is a sticky little towel you grt in paint sections.

2. Fill chips with glazing putty (optional). If you do this, use very TINY amounts on each chip. I used a little too much, and you have to sand that down, and if there is extra left on, it shows thru the paint.

3. Allow at least 30 minutes for that stuff to dry, then sand it down (I ended up sanding the whole hood again along with that for uniformity). I used putty, and in the end, I wish I would have just skipped it and left the chips in there. It's up to you; if you have lots of chips, or they are big, then you might want to use it. Otherwise, it's more woek then it's worth.

So you sand that stuff and then wipe the sanded material off with both towels again.

4. Prime it: I used "Filler primer", it's good stuff, really helps fill the cracks in the old paint.

Took 4 cans. That was about 2 full coats.

5. After at least one hour; sand it again. Nice and smooth is what you want.

Wipe off again, thoroughly. By the way, the tack cloth has bee's wax in it, so try not to press too hard when wiping; don't want that in the paint.

6. Color coat. Takes about 3 cans till it's a good full coat, the 4th will finsih it up.

7. An hour later, clear coat; be careful once it starts getting thick; it's really easy to get a run at this point, much more then the primer and color paint. Clear coat is runny. I got a few runs, because I got carried away. I will wait a few months, sand and hit it again.

It looks much better then the faded, cracked oxidized crap I started with. I will get pics as soon as I can; havin problem getting the pics from my phone to the PC.

Let me know if you have any questions.

Here's how I feel about it:
Looks great, but not sure how long it will last. I will wait a long time before a wash it, want it to cure a long time. Would I do it again? Yes!

Obviously, mask with newspaper and masking tape.

Also, don't paint when it's really humid, or if it's scoarching hot outside. Do not paint in direct sunlight either.

Apply all coats within an hour of each other (besides sanding in between). If a few hours passes, you need to wait a week; otherwise you will get wrinkle, orange peel look on it.

Everyone let me know if you have any questions.
 
Great feedback everyone, thanks all.

In regard to white and/or black. Yes there are many shades. But most people probably won't notice if it's off a little. It's still better then crappy oxidized look ;)

As far as mine being uneven; you are correct. It looks uneven for 2 main reasons. I was working outdoors, and a slight breeze was pulling the paint away into the air. I literally had to hold the can about an inch or 2 above the hood to get it onto the hood. Makes it look like lines kind of.

Time constraint and laziness and not enough paint kept me from sanding the new blue paint (that would help even it out). Also, I became over confident on the clear, and ended up with a run or two. I decided I was tired, and stopped at that point, even though there were some areas not completely covered with clear. I mean the whole hood has clear, but not all areas got a thick enough coat to be shiny. Those areas have a grainy appearance. But that just goes to show you; even a half ass rattle can still can look OK. I was blessed by the fact that I started out with a pretty nasty hood anyway; almost anything would have been an improvement.

I think if I would have been in a garage, 4 cans of blue would have been perfect. But that slight breeze made it where I had to hold it real close. It was a biotch, but I am fairly pleased. Hard to say if some of the little dust and insects that landed in it will screw it up or not. Some people say it will. I will update with pics in 6 months or a year from now to see how it lasts.

I will sand and recoat with clear later.

jari8378"-I don't think that its stated about the notes. USE wet sander paper, if your unsure of what that is, go to a local paint shop and ask, doesn't hurt."

Umm..well the 320 grit works better dry, i tried it wet first, but it didn't work that good, then tried it dry and that was better. With 600 and higher, those are better wet. The water helps keep them from getting clogged.

Joey A "Um why not buy a decent paint gun. And learn how to paint on some shitty cars or metal?

Why rattle can, if I was to DYI paint my hood its not going to be some rattle can job.

Get a spray gun and have fun/"

Yes I agree, however I live in apartment, and I did this in an empty parking lot! That's why it's redneck garage. Although trailer trash garage may have been a better description LOL ;)


No you did not come off as an asshole. It's all good. I had some compromises I had to make, as we all do.


curt-10 "1st- and VERY inportant. wash hood with soap and water, follow with wax & grease remover. (if you like to use armor all type products, do this 2 times) to do this u need 2 clean lint free towels, wet one well with remover, wash about 1/4 of hood, while remover is still wet, dry with other dry towel, repeat on rest of hood"

Yes I washed the car at the do it yourself, and I put alot of pressure on it. I only used a small amount of soap, and I rinsed it an extra long time. During the rinse, I put the sprayer really close to my hood, to get as much contaminants out as possible. I then sanded it and primed.

And just too cheap and in a hurry to deal with some of the extra steps you mention. It's always a matter of how much money and time you are willing to put into it. But I agree the above sounds good.

"2nd I would use 400 wet sandpaper, not 320. 320 is ok but 400 a little better for this job."

320 is what duplicolor currently recomends, and I think there was no 400. I only used 320 on sanding the original paint down, and on the primer. That is way too course for sanding the new paint or clear coat. I decided I didn't want to sand in between new coats because of time constraints, and working in an open parking lot :O

If you want to sand in-between coats, use 600 then 800 IMHO. I did not. But it helps get a more uniform, smooth look if you do.

"4th- let primmer dry at least 24 hours 48 even better."

Good point; I forgot to say I actually primed it one day, then did the rest the next day. It was about 12 hours wait. I mentioned 1 hour as a minmum. I did my write up right after finishiing, I was a little winded, so it was very "off the cuff", and just kinda throwin it out there. I should have been more prepared.

Everyone should just read the directions on the can, and along with advice here; you will determine what you think you want to do; depending on time, location, and budget.
 
I wish I had before pics. My hood actually was past the whit oxidized look. I had previouslt sanded it once hoping to get it to look better. While that did get rid of some of the white oxidized clear, over time the hood became blacksh/brownish stained looking (nasty). Probably contaminents. That's why I held the sprayer real close when washing, I wanted to get rid of that stuff. Hopefully the sanding and primer will help keep it from ruining the paint. Time will tell. And I will repost to let everyone know how it holds up.
 
Spoolin4Ever said:
This is why I originally said 2G owners exempt. And I don't give a ### what YOU would have done. Noone else here cares what you think either BTW.

Don't be hatin.

Not all 2g owners are bad.

I personally think that's the best rattle can job i've ever seen.:dsm:
 
My car is that beige-tan color and in general the car has 16 yrs worth of minor dings, but the hood just looks like someone wire brushed the tan and cleared it over, but I'm sure its just the paint ageing. This winter I might have the car done glass black, you know where they put like 3/16" of clear over perfectly worked out smooth deep black, after All the dings and such are fixed. :thumb:
 
Awesome, I need to re-do my spoiler this year and I could never find a good matching color. I may have to rattle can some stuff this winter as my car's the exact same color. Might even do the front bumper too.
 
wret said:
I've done a fair amount of rattle-canning in my time, but it seems I can never get a good shine. Questions: How many color coats? How heavy? How much time in between?


I think it depends alot on what kind of clear coat you use, I've used several different types, some fairly expensive but have found the stuff from Canadian Tire work the best (guess you guys in the states are SOL). I usually put about 3 coats or so on & to get a good shine you need to put it on fairly heavy. The trick is to not get it so heavy that it will run. A trick I have found to work is to do one coat then once your done the panel go back and do another coat. This way you still get a nice thick coat but donesn't seem to run as easily. Not sure the exact time I wait between coats, usually have them all done within an hour. I've done quite a few jobs on different cars and can usually get as good if not better shine then the factory.
 
Could you double check that number, I'm not getting it to pull up anywhere on Dupli-color's site or elsewhere.

Edit: n/m finally got it to show up by looking up matching paint for a 1999 dodge ram. I'll have to call my buddy down at NAPA and have him order a few cans.
 
mavisky said:
Could you double check that number, I'm not getting it to pull up anywhere on Dupli-color's site or elsewhere.

Edit: n/m finally got it to show up by looking up matching paint for a 1999 dodge ram. I'll have to call my buddy down at NAPA and have him order a few cans.

Yeah I got some from NAPA.
 
Bump because I found this while searching, good info here. One thing everyone forgot to ad, or at least in my state of highness from the spray paint - please wear a respirator or some sort of air intake filtration for your body. Ya one can isn't very scary but what just shocked me is spitting into the sink and red (color im currently painting) in my spit. I don't want to know what my lungs currently look like or the inside of my nose but I'm sure the next few days will suck. Bump!!
 
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