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Redneck garage presents: Painting your hood with duplicolor

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Spoolin4Ever

15+ Year Contributor
1,142
14
Apr 24, 2005
Moses Lake, Washington
Well as most people with a 1G probably are aware; the paint on these cars sucks, and tends to fade and crack really bad, especially on the top parts of the car, like the hood.

In my case, it was starting to look really nasty, mainly on the hood. I mean it was really quite noticeable.

I have owned a 1G in the past, and we rattle canned that one also (it was black), so I learned a few things from that experience.

Generally you have about 3 options when it comes to having it painted:

1. A professional shop; this will probably cost you at least $1000. Well this was out of the question; don't have the money, AND don't want to put that much money into the car.

2. Maaco; they do a so-so job, probably cost about $200 (just for the hood) with tax. Only problem is I really don't trust other people with my car anymore, and the quality of their paint is not that great.

3. Rattle can; cheaper, and at least if I screw it up, I only have myself to blame. Total cost including primer, color, and clear; about $60 (I already have some sandpaper, but add $5 for sanpaper if you don't).

My car is that medium color metallic blue. I found the PERFECT match for it, Duplicolor "Intense Blue Pearl", part number T359.

Here's how muuch supplies you need:

Primer: 4 cans (it seems to take quite a bit of primer, because you need to fill in the cracked exsiting paint).

Color: also about 4 cans, by the end of the 3rd can, it's pretty close to being done, and by the time you are half way done with the 4th can, it's hard to tell what areas need more, in other wards, it's pretty well done.

Clear coat: 2 cans (tghe more paint you have on the car, the less it takes). You can use more if you want additional coats.

Here's what you do:

1. Sand the existing paint using 320 grit sand paper. Do NOT sand all the way to metal. Just sand enought to get off some of the surface cracked paint, and get it feeling nice and smooth when you feel it with your hand.

Wipe off the stuff you sanded with a dry towel, then wipe it off again with a tack cloth (it is a sticky little towel you grt in paint sections.

2. Fill chips with glazing putty (optional). If you do this, use very TINY amounts on each chip. I used a little too much, and you have to sand that down, and if there is extra left on, it shows thru the paint.

3. Allow at least 30 minutes for that stuff to dry, then sand it down (I ended up sanding the whole hood again along with that for uniformity). I used putty, and in the end, I wish I would have just skipped it and left the chips in there. It's up to you; if you have lots of chips, or they are big, then you might want to use it. Otherwise, it's more woek then it's worth.

So you sand that stuff and then wipe the sanded material off with both towels again.

4. Prime it: I used "Filler primer", it's good stuff, really helps fill the cracks in the old paint.

Took 4 cans. That was about 2 full coats.

5. After at least one hour; sand it again. Nice and smooth is what you want.

Wipe off again, thoroughly. By the way, the tack cloth has bee's wax in it, so try not to press too hard when wiping; don't want that in the paint.

6. Color coat. Takes about 3 cans till it's a good full coat, the 4th will finsih it up.

7. An hour later, clear coat; be careful once it starts getting thick; it's really easy to get a run at this point, much more then the primer and color paint. Clear coat is runny. I got a few runs, because I got carried away. I will wait a few months, sand and hit it again.

It looks much better then the faded, cracked oxidized crap I started with. I will get pics as soon as I can; havin problem getting the pics from my phone to the PC.

Let me know if you have any questions.

Here's how I feel about it:
Looks great, but not sure how long it will last. I will wait a long time before a wash it, want it to cure a long time. Would I do it again? Yes!

Obviously, mask with newspaper and masking tape.

Also, don't paint when it's really humid, or if it's scoarching hot outside. Do not paint in direct sunlight either.

Apply all coats within an hour of each other (besides sanding in between). If a few hours passes, you need to wait a week; otherwise you will get wrinkle, orange peel look on it.

Everyone let me know if you have any questions.
 
By the way you can see I need to re-coat the clear. Basically I got annoyed with that run, so I stopped. Well I removed all the newspaper and tape I masked with. Just decided I will go back over it later. In a week or two.

Anytime working with enamel paint, each coat of the same paint must go on after 10 minutes, but before one hour. If you wait past one hour, you are supposed to wait 5 or more days.

If you can take the hood off, it's easier. And if you hang it up on something, that is the best, because pointing down with the spray cans sucks.

Myself, I did it on the car, and outdoors. Yeah it's a kinda tough ut oh well.

Any way, right by the hump, on the inside part of the hood; I need more clear. But it looks pretty good IMHO.
 
Oh yeah I painted the front wheels about 10 days ago with duplicolor wheel paint. And yes I used primer first. I say always use primer first. Otherwise it will flake off too easy. Also helps with a uniform finish.

OK I'm post-whoring my own post ;)

Chime in folks let me know how it looks and any questions/comments (2G owners exempt)
 
Well I'm a 2G owner but I'll still give you my 2c. I think it turned out really well, the compression/lighting of the pictures doesn't lend itself to a thorough critique...LOL, but it looks really good, especially for a bomb can.

Good Job!
 
Thanks man. Yeah the lighting is uneven in the shade. And sure it isn't perfect but it gets the job done. The test is how long it lasts. I here dup with chip pretty easy, until it cures (maybe a few months). So I will try to be gentle with it for a while.

Yeah I said that about 2g cause they usually can't relate; they don't have the crappy oxidizing paint. Tha seems most prevelant in 92-94. At least the 90 we had was not like that. But then again it was white.

Suprisingly it's all 2g guys replying...well I am just glad somebody is anyway. After all that work hehe.

And with the huge number of 1G's with bad paint, I'm suprised none of them are checking in.
 
that looks good, my father did an entire ford bronco in spray cans once...and it looked like a professional laquer paint job (after 2 months)(though he painted cars for 15 yrs..) never under estimate spray paint...just your willingnes to sand all the inperfections...But geat job, I wouldn't have guess it canned,specially cuase you found such a close color match:thumb: .... now then you respearked my desire to have my hood looking right.
 
Doesnt look bad at all, i sprayed my last car with spray bombs took 24 cans, that looks pretty good though.
 
RiceKiller_TSi said:
Not bad. My Talon is white so it should be a lot easier when I paint it using rattle can. LOL.

I've actually heard from a painter that white is the hardest color to paint, as there are so many different shades of white. I also attended a car show once where I spoke to the owner, as he had just had his car repainted. It was last repainted about 2 years ago, he still had the same color code, and recently had it re-sprayed. Long story short, color didn't match, even though he went to the same place and used the same color code, and even used a paint chip off his car.


Anyways, hood looks good, seems kinda uneven though, most likely just lighting. I know 95-96 DSM's have trouble with paint, mostly on trim/mirrors and pieces like that. Well, I know atleast I do. Eventually I'm going to pull off all of my trim and mirrors and re-finish them with duplicolor :cool:
 
Ok, im not the best painter, but there are some steps i that i think i should pass down.

-I don't think that its stated about the notes. USE wet sander paper, if your unsure of what that is, go to a local paint shop and ask, doesn't hurt.

-prior to painting clean the surface with painter thiner with a "white" rag. This avoids discolorization from the rag to the surface.

-finally, clean the area before you paint really good, then wet the floor, so dust doesn't stick to hood(er, whatever your painting).

well, thats what i do.
 
Um why not buy a decent paint gun. And learn how to paint on some shitty cars or metal?

Why rattle can, if I was to DYI paint my hood its not going to be some rattle can job.

Get a spray gun and have fun/
 
you could always look for good advice, when joey posts.

i agree with joey, but you didn't have to be an ass about it. its not a bad job, for a first time paint. Give positive advice not crap.
 
Hey sorry I didnt mean to come off like a asshole at all, Im just really picky with my car and if I do somthing im anal and it has to be done right.


Sorry if anyone takes offense I didnt mean to come off like that...
 
My buddy bought a decent spray gun, and spray his fenders and a few other things and it came out really good.

Befor thta he rattle canned and it was really crappy, but when he used the decent gun it looked damn good..
 
yeh joey usually does have good advice but does joey want to pay the 200 bucks for the origonal paint from a factory..or the 275 from some other place. Cause rattle cans are cheap but paint on its own isnt. Show me a good site with cheap paint that you can buy and its good paint and i will be amazed. Paint is NOT cheap and sure as hell isnt from a dealer. Plus white is the hardest to paint like someone else said.
 
White isnt the hardest really, black is really hard.....


You know you can buy dupli color in larger pints etc they dont only come in spray cans.
 
I just said I had a friend that canned his car, it didnt turn out as nice. He waited scraped up some cash got a hook up on paint and got a cheap used gun and it ended up coming out nice.


Geez
 
Ok guys I am a 20 year pro. 1st- you can get a beautiful paint job out of a can. It will not be as durable as other paints, 2nd- do not, do not, do not, wipe your car down with paint thinner. there are solvents made for that, such as prep sol. or wax and grease remover ect. If you want to do this, the color match will be your biggest problem. A quick run down.
spoolin did a great job with his step by step. follow that with just a few changes.
1st- and VERY inportant. wash hood with soap and water, follow with wax & grease remover. (if you like to use armor all type products, do this 2 times) to do this u need 2 clean lint free towels, wet one well with remover, wash about 1/4 of hood, while remover is still wet, dry with other dry towel, repeat on rest of hood.

2nd I would use 400 wet sandpaper, not 320. 320 is ok but 400 a little better for this job.

3rd- use the glazing puty, dab it in the chips, then (right away) scrape off with a razor blade. after its dry sand smoth, u may have to do large chips 2 times.

4th- let primmer dry at least 24 hours 48 even better.

5th- before your last coat of color, take some 1200 wet sand paper, and denib, (denib=lightly sand any dirt specks or inperfections) now apply last coat of color.

you can wash your car after a couple of days but do not wax for at least a month.

i am not say that u can get as good a job as a shop could do but with a little care it would look better than it did before.
 
I have Rattle canned 5 Bumpers in my life and I think if you know what your doing, it comes out well. You DEFF have to paint it indoors though. Outdoors will just ruin the paint. Yours came out well. It would have been perfect if you did it indoors and added 1 more even coate of paint.
 
curt-10 said:
Ok guys I am a 20 year pro. 1st- you can get a beautiful paint job out of a can. It will not be as durable as other paints, 2nd- do not, do not, do not, wipe your car down with paint thinner. there are solvents made for that, such as prep sol. or wax and grease remover ect. If you want to do this, the color match will be your biggest problem. A quick run down.
spoolin did a great job with his step by step. follow that with just a few changes.
1st- and VERY inportant. wash hood with soap and water, follow with wax & grease remover. (if you like to use armor all type products, do this 2 times) to do this u need 2 clean lint free towels, wet one well with remover, wash about 1/4 of hood, while remover is still wet, dry with other dry towel, repeat on rest of hood.

2nd I would use 400 wet sandpaper, not 320. 320 is ok but 400 a little better for this job.

3rd- use the glazing puty, dab it in the chips, then (right away) scrape off with a razor blade. after its dry sand smoth, u may have to do large chips 2 times.

4th- let primmer dry at least 24 hours 48 even better.

5th- before your last coat of color, take some 1200 wet sand paper, and denib, (denib=lightly sand any dirt specks or inperfections) now apply last coat of color.

you can wash your car after a couple of days but do not wax for at least a month.

i am not say that u can get as good a job as a shop could do but with a little care it would look better than it did before.

I've done a fair amount of rattle-canning in my time, but it seems I can never get a good shine. Questions: How many color coats? How heavy? How much time in between?
 
kawboy said:
I've actually heard from a painter that white is the hardest color to paint, as there are so many different shades of white. I also attended a car show once where I spoke to the owner, as he had just had his car repainted. It was last repainted about 2 years ago, he still had the same color code, and recently had it re-sprayed. Long story short, color didn't match, even though he went to the same place and used the same color code, and even used a paint chip off his car.


Anyways, hood looks good, seems kinda uneven though, most likely just lighting. I know 95-96 DSM's have trouble with paint, mostly on trim/mirrors and pieces like that. Well, I know atleast I do. Eventually I'm going to pull off all of my trim and mirrors and re-finish them with duplicolor :cool:

I disagree. My car has been in an accident before and was repainted white and unless you wear a visor like Geordi from Star Trek I doubt you could tell the difference. Also I'm not concerned with a "perfect" factory white. As long as the entire car is painted with the same batch of white paint at the same time I'm sure it will match up nicely. Mind you I've rattle canned with white paint before. But the next time I think I will invest in a spray gun and some better paint.
 
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