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Rebuilding engine, what am I forgetting?

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Andrew7DG

15+ Year Contributor
162
0
Oct 11, 2004
Rosemount, Minnesota
I am getting everything together to rebuild/replace seals on my 90 GSX motor. I got sick of looking at oil leaks. It is killing alternators!
I am also getting smoke when it is at idle for a while. I believe it is due to the valve guides.
There is no smoke when it is running at higher RPMs. I am taking the head into a machine shop for inspection.

So I am trying to figure out what else I should do to the engine when it is out.
What I bought so far for the rebuild is
ARP head studs
Timing belt (don't know how old the other one is)
Gaskets/seals from mitsubishi dealer


My mods I that I will be adding or already have added are

255 fuel pump with FPR
650 injectors (haven't bought yet)
16G turbo exhaust ported
2g O2 ported
Evo 3 exhaust manifold ported
FMIC with hard pipes
MAF-T
AFC
Removed A/C

The car is a street car however not a daily driver, I will be happy with reliable 300-400hp and I don't have to worry if it will break when I am taking it at WOT

I am not going as far to replace the pistons and rods, I simply just don't have the money for them right now. However what else should I perhaps consider while I have the engine out?
What I know is that the engines are good till 400hp but what starts breaking at 400 hp (Also remember this is a 6-bolt block)? I am sure the ARP head bolts will help that.
What about ARP Main Crankshaft Bolts and ARP Connecting Rod Bolts, would those be worth the money also?

Should I invest in some new rings for the pistons?

Anything I should be thinking with the head? I plan on just having the guides looked at hand having the head cleaned and inspected for faults.

I am also thinking of balance shaft eliminator?...

It feels like I am forgetting something...
Thanks!
 
you said killing alternator's that would be power steering fluid leak more likely because is right on top, or high resistance from the tiny stock wires. this is what i did : rewire it with 4ga wire pos and neg .
if you trying to go all loud with this i would strongly recomend a alternator relocation kit .

fill your engine mounts with polyurethane or buy some .

balance shaft eliminator i believe $50, what the hell you already have it all apart ? i got mine removed .

new rings wouldnt be a bad idea if you have the head out but it all depends on your budget.
remember that u need a new hydralic tensioner $95 , idler pulley $35 , if you go with tha mls hg $95 , depending on milles water pump and oil pump doesnt hurt if your doing all that work , plus if you ever thought on a external oil cooller now could be the perfect time.
 
oh you can get a pair of brian crower cams for around $350 , that could be something to look into :thumb:
 
"you said killing alternator's that would be power steering fluid leak more likely because is right on top, or high resistance from the tiny stock wires. this is what i did : rewire it with 4ga wire pos and neg .

if you trying to go all loud with this i would strongly recomend a alternator relocation kit ."

I should loook at the shape of the powersteering pump. I replaced the O rings on my other Daily driver and it isn't that hard.
I don't think I am going to relocate the alternator...yet
I do like the idea of having it out of the way.



"fill your engine mounts with polyurethane or buy some."

I like this idea, I do want to do that.


"balance shaft eliminator i believe $50, what the hell you already have it all apart ? i got mine removed."

I also found a website where it explains how it can be done for free. I am thinking of doing this. I am not looking for cushy comfort in this car (however I don't want the thing stripped down to nothing also) However it may be worth just buying the kit and saving some time.

"new rings wouldnt be a bad idea if you have the head out but it all depends on your budget."

The whole engine is going to be out of the car and on an engine stand so it might be worth it. I will run a compression check to see the numbers.

"remember that u need a new hydralic tensioner $95 , idler pulley $35 , if you go with tha mls hg $95 , depending on milles water pump and oil pump doesnt hurt if your doing all that work , plus if you ever thoug"ht on a external oil cooller now could be the perfect time."

All adds up
however I am going with the stock Mitsubishi head gasket... is this a bad head gasket to go with? should I be looking toward another...?

Also back to the ARP, I have the head studs, does anyone else recomend buying ARP Main Crankshaft Bolts and ARP Connecting Rod Bolts? Or would the stock ones be enough... Remember I am going with stock components (pistons, rods)

Cams might have to wait for another day or untill I sell some parts I have laying around.

Thanks for the advice
 
If you are doing new rings, you will have the pistons and rods out, and if doing that you might as well do a full rebuild. Plus if getting new rings I'd get a hone for sure, so thats money there + labor for tearing the block all apart.


400hp I'd go with the mitsu MLS as well as the ARP head studs. I wouldn't do the other ARPs personally if you arn't revving past stock redline, but thats just me, others will chime in and say different.
 
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