Rear brake install help

[theycallmedalgo]

Im sitting outside on my tire right now because im stuck with my rear rotor/pad installation.

I have the car jacked up, both rotors and pads off the car. I compressed the piston with a large c clamp but it didnt seem to stay down.

So my question is how do I compress the piston and keep it down? Im at a loss here and its getting dark.

by the way I searched and nothing helped me with rear brakes only fronts.

thanks guys

 

[oldman]

The rear calipers needs to be turned in, not pressed in. Take a pair of needle nose pliers, secure the tips on the pattern of the piston then push and turn CW.

 

[theycallmedalgo]

ok thanks oldman, do I need to open the bleeder at any time?

 

[oldman]

ok thanks oldman, do I need to open the bleeder at any time?

No, but you do need to use caps at the beginning of a sentence though.

 

[theycallmedalgo]

Ha sorry, anyway I got it compressed and the pads in but Im haing clearance issues. The rotor would barely, if at all fit between the pads, so I decided to abort so I can drive the car home and then continue there. Do I need a special tool to get more space? The piston is compressed all the way but its still tight.

My hands are frozen forgive my grammar

 

[oldman]

Ha sorry, anyway I got it compressed and the pads in but Im haing clearance issues. The rotor would barely, if at all fit between the pads, so I decided to abort so I can drive the car home and then continue there. Do I need a special tool to get more space? The piston is compressed all the way but its still tight.

My hands are frozen forgive my grammar

Are the rotors vented? I forgot which year came with vented rear rotors (it's been a while), but if your new rotor is vented, it won't fit your 90'.

 

[theycallmedalgo]

Its a solid piece, there's no air space in the rotor. So I am stumped as to why the rotor will not fit in between the alotted space.

My pads are akebono rear disc fitment and they are pretty thick, but everything should still fit in there.

It seems that even if I got the rotor in there it would be grinding against the pads all the time.



anyway...I just drove the car home and if I figure out how to get more space i'll try thise again tomorrow. If not i'll have to take it to a mechanic

 

[theycallmedalgo]

O yea I did open the bleeder to relieve pressure but I don't think that has anything to do with fitment does it? (its closed now)


dsm rear brakes=

 

[oldman]

O yea I did open the bleeder to relieve pressure but I don't think that has anything to do with fitment does it? (its closed now)


dsm rear brakes=

I don't think it will affect fitment but it does mean you should bleed your brakes.

 

[AWDPetmitsu]

There's a chance you may have damaged your rear calipers by compressing them with a C-clamp.

 

[theycallmedalgo]

I don't think it will affect fitment but it does mean you should bleed your brakes.

Effect or affect? Where's an english teacher when you need one jk

This is true though, I will tackle that IF I actually get the rotors and pads on correctly.


Again, is there a way for me to get more space between the pads?

 

[theycallmedalgo]

There's a chance you may have damaged your rear calipers by compressing them with a C-clamp.

They worked fine when I drove home right after. Also, that wouldn't change the amount of space I am in need of.


There has to be a way to spread the caliper apart so theres more room for the pads/rotors.

 

[oldman]

Effect or affect? Where's an english teacher when you need one jk

Indeed, where's that English teacher. affect vs effect.

Again, is there a way for me to get more space between the pads?

Without physically looking at them I'm out of ideas besides the piston not being retracted completely or you bought the wrong pads.

 

[theycallmedalgo]

Thanks oldman, Ill try to take pictures of the caliper tomorrow morning when the piston is compressed and the pads are in. I might try to stick the rotor in as well and snap a few.

These are the pads I bought (rear fitment, and they fit except for those metal clips in the way)
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brak...S+Turbo&autoYear=1990&autoModClar=&perfCode=P

Also what holds the actuals pads in the caliper? I think I remember yanking out some clips today because they got in the way of the pads, do I need those?! If I pulled those out my pads are just going to be bouncing around aren't they ?...


Anyway, it seems I just keep causing myself problems. Im going to go through the whole process again tomorrow, so if anyone has any tips/solutions feel free to chime in

 

[oldman]

You need those clips to hold the pads in place, without them the pads will rattle around. You can pick up a new set at an auto parts store, if re-using the old ones, make sure you bend the edges of the clips back to it's original positions so they clip on nice and tight.

 

[theycallmedalgo]

ahh jeeze allright thanks. I'll hed over to advance auto tomorrow and pick up a set (If they don't have them I'll shoot myself)


Anyone know the part number for these?

 

[oldman]

Carlson Quality Brake Parts, part#13283. If memory serves, this includes front and back but you should ask to be sure.

 

[MrBoxx]

Indeed, where's that English teacher. affect vs effect.

Here I am. Sorry I'm late. It's "affect".

Only reason I stopped into this thread is because I'm just having the local Mitsu dealer put my slotted/cross-drilled rotors and my own pads on; I'm just paying for the labor. After breaking a bolt on my front caliper bracket and having my car down for over a week while the part was in transit, I'm done doing my own brakes and just wanted to know how much of a PITA I'm saving myself by having the dealership do them. And hopefully the little scraping noise I'm hearing every so often will be fixed.

 

[oldman]

What kind of wiseman pays for a brake job?

Seriouly though, I suspect that the infamous DSM rear brake grinding noise has some to do with them clips, I still get them right before the pads run out but much less so than before I replace all the clips, make sure the stealership change them or at least re-shape the old ones to eliminate any pad play.

PS You're paying for a brake job.

 

[MrBoxx]

I'm paying for a brake job, but saving myself from breaking parts, which would keep me from being able to drive my car, ergo keeping me from getting to work, a job which I need to pay for..... my brake job. I'm fine with that. They're also adjusting my e-brake, which currently allows my car to roll backwards if I'm parked on any incline at all. I have no clue how the rear brakes and e-brake all work, so I'm more than happy to let someone else more experienced deal with it.

I just hope it's not something else, like my rear diff, drivetrain/u-joints, axles, suspension parts, etc.

 

[oldman]

I just hope it's not something else, like my rear diff, drivetrain/u-joints, axles, suspension parts, etc.

If you're talking the grinding coming to a stop, something I have been trying to solve since 95' , it's coming from the brakes not the rear diff. I have tried pretty much everything over the years and was only able to minimize it. I know for sure it's the brakes because I can sometimes see pad skid marks on the rotor almost like anti lock brakes but in longer intervals. I have pretty much given up and learned to live with the noise.

 

[AWDPetmitsu]

ahh jeeze allright thanks. I'll hed over to advance auto tomorrow and pick up a set (If they don't have them I'll shoot myself)


Anyone know the part number for these?

I got the rear clips at Pep Boys. They were Raybesto's brand.

 

[theycallmedalgo]

Sweet im going to head over there right now and see if I can get some for a deecent price. Thanks for all the help guys, I will probably be posting in a few hours if I run into trouble with the install again


Somehow I can't see a DsmWiseman going to the dealer

 

[theycallmedalgo]

I got the left rotor on with one stock pad and one aftermarket one, but had to go to advance to get the metal clips. They made me come back like 3 times which was totally lame....

Anyway I'm going to try and get the right rear done tomorrow morning and I will post up the results.


PS:. I used a large wrench with a metal rod through the end to turn the piston clockwise because for me it worked better than pliers.

 

[bodcus]

The rear calipers needs to be turned in, not pressed in. Take a pair of needle nose pliers, secure the tips on the pattern of the piston then push and turn CW.

Can someone please psot the actual steps for changing the rear pads and rotors. Used a c-clamp also, but the calipers wont stay compressed. then i unbolted the outer part also, and took the caliper off as one peice with the use of a hammer. All the while the pads were biting the rotor.