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Radiator's transmission cooler for engine oil cooler [Merged 3-9]

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If you are doing all that, you need to reasearch IPT. for a inline tranny cooler and need end clutches and a shift kit.! I wish I had the cash for that.Oh, and you will need a rebuild while you are at it and a new t/conveter, if your racing the Talon. What kind of set up are yoou going with with the engine.? Import performance transmission....IPT
 
I don't know of any automatic transmissions where more cooling isn't a good idea. If you go with the Tru-Cool from IPT, it does its own temperature regulation by its design.
They are simple to install, you just put them in series with the factory cooler, in the return line.
 
I have 1999 Eclipse RS and I am thinking of getting a transmission cooler and I was wondering what would be the best cooler to get; how is the install is it hard to do?
 
Stock auto have an integrated tranny cooler in the radiator.
Many people when installing an tranny cooler usually just bypass the stock setup. And mount the new cooler on either side of bumper airducts or infront of the radiator. Which ever is easier and convenient for your set up.
I would expect for it to be a pretty straightforward job. Theres only two lines. You would have to rig something up to secure the cooler.
You can try onlinesummit, or various online auto. O'reillys and autozone carry some. Hell I even pick up a decent size one from the junkyard off of some car.
 
I was talking with a local mechanic that will be rebuilding my transmission and mentioned using a tranny cooler along with the one in the radiator. Would this be ok?
Thanks
Chris
 
for an aftermarket trans cooler(auto obviously) check out IPT they sell Tru-cooler trans coolers in all different sizes, i used it on my gsx and they are great! also the tru-cooler comes with mounting brackets and hoses/clamps to make for a simple install.
 
I have one from autozone that is rated for mobile homes and 10,000 lb. towing, but stock a/t turbo 2g's did not have the cooler in the rad. I had to make some brakets to make it fit in the stock smic location. But, yes, a second cooler along with the stock one in the rad. is a good idea.
 
Cool, but has anyone used both a cooler and the one in the radiator?
Thanks
Chris
 
Yea, most people who have a cooler in the radiator will still use that one plus an aftermarket cooler, but, if it was me, i would make sure that the aftermarket cooler is getting the already pre-cooled fluid from the rad. cooler.
 
This would be what I have in mind. I would like to install the cooler in front of the radiator, how would I run the lines then?
Thanks
Chris
 
For the feed line, you need to tee into your Oil pressure sending unit. This is located in the back of the black, right next to your knock sensor. Do a quick search for specifics on the location. Once you tee into this, you will be able to hook up a SS line to route the pressureized oil with. Connect this to your inlet on the cooler.

I'm not sure if you could rig up the trurn line without tapping into your oil pan for the oil return. Someone may be able to chime in and help out there...

My buddy Thom on 2GNT (Malenko) uses one of the coolers. His is A/T so I'm sure it would yield more benefits then a M/T. When we pulled his bumper off it was in the upper left corner, directly in front of the radiator.

Whoa whoa... tranny fluid and motor oil stay in two, separate closed systems. The aren't the same thing, and they don't intermix whatsoever. Don't touch the oil pan or OPSU.

A/Ts have two ports on them that lead to rubber hoses that connect to the stock cooler. Adding a cooler is as simple as plumbing it in with more rubber hose (make sure the hose is oil resistant, and capable of withstanding heat and pressure). Coolers aren't unidirectional; there's no specific "in" and "out," so plumb it any way you like.

You can run the stock cooler in series with the new one, but that's probably overkill. It'll just add headaches to the project, and possibly compromise flow.

A/Ts need tranny fluid to help lubricate everything, and also to act as a sort of hydraulic fluid to actuate all the internal mechanisms. Acting as a working fluid puts the relatively non-viscous fluid under a lot of stress, and thus heat... so A/T fluid needs to be cooled.

M/Ts use a thicker type of lube that only lubricates the moving gears. It doesn't get as hot. Also, there's no pump in an M/T to circulate the fluid, so cooling an M/T is out of the question.
 
Im not sure if I understand what your talking about. Why would I want to tape into lines when I already have the lines going into the radiator on my A/T.
Thanks
Chris

He's mistaken, disregard the post.
 
I thought something didnt sound right. So I am understanding that I could use both, the stock and the aftermarket one? VelocitaPaola, you mentioned it would be overkill, which would be better then?
Thanks
Chris
 
VelocitàPaola;151207753 said:
Just use the aftermarket one.

Agreed. The aftermarket cooler alone should be plenty for you. Unless you regularly abuse the thing on a road course, or use your 2gnt for towing the camper everywhere. :shudders: In these cases, overkill may be appropriate.
 
Sounds Great, appreciate it everyones input on this.........Thanks
Chris
 
"The most often asked question is should I bypass the radiator cooler when I install a auxillary cooler.
Most cooler manufactures and automobile manufactures information we have read, recommends installing the coolers In-Series with the factory radiator cooler for maxium cooling efficiency.
So unless the manufactures who have spent 1000's of hours testing different installations are wrong, the suggested cooler installation is in-series......
Transmission > Radiator cooler > Auxillary cooler > then Back to the transmission.
If you must bypass the radiator because the cooler tube is leaking or for other reasons, be sure to increase the size cooler you install by 1 to 2 sizes. "
http://www.bulkpart.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=2&Category_Code=cooler-info

The Tru-Cool stacked plate design is the hot tip. The graduation in the plate stacks makes it self-bypassing when it's cold out.

A quick Google will find many pages of cooler installation procedures. The make and model of the car are virtually immaterial.
 
Thanks Defiant for the good information. I think I will run both. If I understand this right fluid from the transmission should go through the radiator cooler first then the cooler and back to the transmission. Sounds good.
Thanks
Chris
 
I am having trouble trying to figure out how to mount the Hayden transmission cooler I bought. I want it in-series with the stock cooler, does that mean I should take out a section of the steel return line and put the new cooler and rubber line in its place? How do you even cut steel line? Which line is the return and which is the feedline going to the stock cooler?
The directions have confused me further, as they gave me a fitting and told me to connect it to the radiator.
 
I'm not to sure you sould run both coolers, when the guys at IPT did mine, they took out the stock one and replaced it with there own in just about the same location. Hope this helps.
 
Double check with IPT to be sure the Hayden you bought is adequate for your application. I don't recommend running it in series with the stock. Your radiator does not have a hookup for the trans, if it did you would not have an external cooler. Anyhow, I cannot remember which line is the feed and which is the return. Since your just going to a cooler it does not matter. If you want to know, what I did was run 4' rubber hoses off the feed and return into a bucket and started the car for 20 seconds and then shut it off. When you take a look at the hoses you can tell the wet one is the send and the dry is the return.
Don't worry at idle the fluid comes out like maple syrup, well not really but slow anyway.
 
I would not run two cooler due to the pumping losses that you would get. Just replace the stock one with the upgraded cooler and that should be more then enough.
 
Ok, I'll just replace the stocker with the new one. Its much larger and is rated for trucks and class c mobile homes, so I'm sure its an upgrade to the stocker. Thanks guys
 
"The most often asked question is should I bypass the radiator cooler when I install a auxillary cooler.
Most cooler manufactures and automobile manufactures information we have read, recommends installing the coolers In-Series with the factory radiator cooler for maxium cooling efficiency.
So unless the manufactures who have spent 1000's of hours testing different installations are wrong, the suggested cooler installation is in-series......
Transmission > Radiator cooler > Auxillary cooler > then Back to the transmission.
If you must bypass the radiator because the cooler tube is leaking or for other reasons, be sure to increase the size cooler you install by 1 to 2 sizes. "

http://www.bulkpart.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=2&Category_Code=cooler-info
 
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