QUick SAFCII Q plus IDLE Q

[Crazyjoker77]

okay so I have finally finished braking my motor in so now its time to start tuning at WOT anyway my first question is that on my car my safcII displays knock is this number accurate at all i was under the impression 2g cars had no way of seeing knock. Also, i am having a slight idle problem when i start my car up it idles fine but once it gets to operating temperature the idle goes up to about 1100 rpms and stays that way till i let it cool down. Now i talked to the shop that put the engine in and they told me it was normal for a new engine to do this.

also my car is getting some hesitation at high rpms 5500+ would this be caused by not having a upgraded exhaust. I'm running a rs49t @ 15psi and 660cc with 190lph on stock cams. If the exhaust is not causing this what could be.

 

[ArticNemesis]

Also, i am having a slight idle problem when i start my car up it idles fine but once it gets to operating temperature the idle goes up to about 1100 rpms and stays that way till i let it cool down. Now i talked to the shop that put the engine in and they told me it was normal for a new enigiine to do this.

Usually, when a car is cold, the ecu pushes the idle up a few hundred RPM's to keep a consistent idle. As it warms up, it drops the idle back down. Something isn't right there.

Have you done a boost leak test yet.? If not, check for boost leaks, and report back here.

[edit]
And no, the SAFC knock count is not right. Ignore it.

 

[95blackGsTurbo]

Sounds like you need either more/less fuel in the upper RPM area. 5500+ is about where the fuel-cut starts on 2g's and you can change that with the SAFC II but you have to know how to do it. As for the idle, all cars do that. They kick the idle up a little bit to circulate more air and coolant to cool the car down. Depending on how hard you had been driving it.

 

[Mist3r Spool]

I'd get your car dyno-tuned. As for the knock option for the SAFC-II...it's a waste of existence, period. If you don't feel like spending the money on dyno-tuning, you might want to try LEANING out your settings on the AFC. I played with mine for about an hour to get the car running smooth. As for an exhaust, any turbo-equipped car will benefit from having a free-flowing exhaust. If you don't want to spend a lot of money on an exhaust system you can at least have a local muffler shop remove the resonators (and replace with straight-through piping) and get a downpipe...that'll help a bit.

 

[Crazyjoker77]

okay thanks for clearing up the safcII knock thing for me but I'm still stumped as to why I'm having these other two problems. I was always under the impression when you start the car the idle should be higher then go to where it is suppose to. Mine is doing the opposite by idling at 750-800 when i first start it up but after about 5min it jumps up to 1100-1200 and stays there till i shut the car off. also i know a bit about tuning and have both pocket logger and a safcII i have my low tables set correctly LTFT stays at 0 and the short term cycles between -3 and +3 but mostly stays at 0. now i have started to do a couple WOT pulls but everytime it starts bucking really badly around 6000RPM and i have to let off. I am running 660 injectors and have the safc at -15% across the board. and the TH points at 30/70. and just another thing would a boost leak cause this bucking at high RPM. I highly doubt that there is a boost leak as it only got out of the shop 500miles ago and they told me the pressure tested it to 20psi. also iv include my 2 WOT logs

LOG 1

RPM........timing
3020.......28
3176.......27
3340.......24
3516........22
3736.......21
3952.......17
4172........16
4420.......15
4652.......14
4800.......13
5016.......14
5160.......14
5384.......16
5492.......16
5636........17
5672........19
5860........20
then it starts to buck

log 2
2572....26
2772....28
3000....27
3248....26
3520....23
3816....22
4132....19
4462....16
4788....15
4904....14
5188....15
5360....16
5580....17
5688....18
5960....20
and again it starts bucking...

from these logs i can see I'm getting knock right around 5k

but should i be taking away fuel or adding it as i think -15% is rather rich for 660 injectors??

 

[95blackGsTurbo]

SAFC does not work well with anything over 550's. Anyone will tell you that. I've seen a few rare cars with 650's get a decent tune but I hear it's really hard to do. If you are bucking and getting knock it's because you aren't getting enough fuel. Hence why it's call fuel-cut. Just keep adding a little more fuel at a time to get it to run better. It's really hard to tune with an SAFC and 660's unless you have some sort of wideband to check you A/F ratio.