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1G Question about replacing torn front outer driver's side CV axle boot

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XC92

5+ Year Contributor
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Jul 22, 2020
Queens, New York
It looks like the other boots are fine, front/rear, driver/passenger, inner/outer. I understand that to replace the front outer driver's side boot I don't have to remove the entire axle, just the outer part to the left of the carrier bearing assembly that bolts to the (block?).

I'm just a bit confused as to how to do this. Yesterday I tried to remove the TJ case and outer axle from the carrier bearing assembly, but it wouldn't budge. Then, re-reviewing the FSM and VFAQ, it looks like the TJ case remains in the carrier bearing assembly (to remove it you need a press or tool, apparently), and you have to instead remove the inner boot, and then I can pull out the entire outer axle. Is this the case?

If so, can I reuse the inner boot if it's fine, by removing the clamps, or do I have to cut it out per the VFAQ and install a new one? And if I can reuse it, can I also reuse the clamps, or do those have to be replaced? I'm ordering a clamp tool to help with this, this one:


Will this clamp allow me to non-destructively remove and reinstall the inner boot clamp? I don't mind using new clamps or even a new inner boot. They're not that expensive. I just want to know if I need to do that, so I can order them. But if I can reuse one or all, even better.

Oh, and are these the correct replacement boots:

Front driver's side outer: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=495063&cc=1103094&pt=2284&jsn=3574

Front driver's side inner: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=495089&cc=1103094&pt=2284

Finally, if I do have to replace the inner boot clamp, can I use correctly-sized hose clamps, or alternately metal zip ties? Or do I have to use proper boot clamps?

And, yes, I know, I should probably just replace the axle itself, the outer part that is, as they're not that expensive and it's cheap insurance. And I might do that instead. But I still have to know how to remove it. However, when I removed the axle from the hub, I didn't notice, hear or feel any grinding and such, so it might still be ok.
 
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I'm not sure why the VFAQ write up says to remove the carrier and axle. If replacing both boots just separate the inner boot and take the rest of the axle out. If you want to replace just the outer boot I have been able to grab the axle shaft with a vise grip and wedged the vise grip against the control arm and hit the outer joint to pop it off the axle. (Put a piece of wood against the joint before hitting it don't just hit it with a bare hammer)

It is possible to re-use the cv boot clamps but I wouldn't recommend it. You'll need an ear clamp plier like this to re-crimp the clamp and it if hard as hell to get them back on. When you remove them you need to spread the crimp back out flat. I really would just recommend new clamps tho.


I have replaced many CV axle boots and as long as it wasn't run dry or the grease isn't full of debris you'll be fine. It is way cheaper to re-boot than to get a new axle.
 
I'm not sure why the VFAQ write up says to remove the carrier and axle. If replacing both boots just separate the inner boot and take the rest of the axle out. If you want to replace just the outer boot I have been able to grab the axle shaft with a vise grip and wedged the vise grip against the control arm and hit the outer joint to pop it off the axle. (Put a piece of wood against the joint before hitting it don't just hit it with a bare hammer)

It is possible to re-use the cv boot clamps but I wouldn't recommend it. You'll need an ear clamp plier like this to re-crimp the clamp and it if hard as hell to get them back on. When you remove them you need to spread the crimp back out flat. I really would just recommend new clamps tho.


I have replaced many CV axle boots and as long as it wasn't run dry or the grease isn't full of debris you'll be fine. It is way cheaper to re-boot than to get a new axle.
Are you saying that I can keep the shaft in the car (meaning don't touch the inner boot or TJ case on the inboard side of the outer axle) and just replace the outer boot, by removing the BJ case outward, by basically hitting it with a hammer (protected by a piece of wood)? Or did I misunderstand you and I have to remove the entire outer axle?

As for the clamps, if I'm not touching the inner boot then the new outer boot kit comes with new clamps, so no problem there. But if I need to remove the inner boot and replace the clamps, do I need actual boot clamps, or are hose clamps or metal zip ties ok?

And is that tool I linked to above not the correct one?
 
Are you saying that I can keep the shaft in the car (meaning don't touch the inner boot or TJ case on the inboard side of the outer axle) and just replace the outer boot, by removing the BJ case outward, by basically hitting it with a hammer (protected by a piece of wood)? Or did I misunderstand you and I have to remove the entire outer axle?

As for the clamps, if I'm not touching the inner boot then the new outer boot kit comes with new clamps, so no problem there. But if I need to remove the inner boot and replace the clamps, do I need actual boot clamps, or are hose clamps or metal zip ties ok?

And is that tool I linked to above not the correct one?

Yes keep the shaft in the car and grab the axles shaft with the biggest pair of vise grips you have as tight as you can. You have to get the vise grip tight against a spot on the frame/suspension of the car as well and shove the axle inwards before grabbing the axle so there isn't tension on the inner boot. Then place the wood against the inside of the outer joint and smack it with a hammer. The idea is that the vise grip holds the axle from moving while you hit the joint to pop it off.

I've used hose clamps in a pinch before but I would use the metal tie (Band Clamp) ones if you have to replace them which the tool you linked is made for. The tool you linked above will not work with ear clamps. Ear clamps look like this. Either ear clamps or band clamps are acceptable to use in my opinion.
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Yesterday I tried to remove the TJ case and outer axle from the carrier bearing assembly, but it wouldn't budge. Then, re-reviewing the FSM and VFAQ, it looks like the TJ case remains in the carrier bearing assembly (to remove it you need a press or tool, apparently), and you have to instead remove the inner boot, and then I can pull out the entire outer axle. Is this the case?

The drivers side axle will split between the intermediate shaft/carrier bearing assembly and the TJ but I've only done it with the whole thing out of the car. There is only a split ring holding them together but it takes a few good wacks on the TJ case while holding the intermediate shaft to get them apart.

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I don't think that tool will help with the Oetiker clamps on the CV boots. I forget which Oetiker clamp pliers Marty at Raxles suggested when I did mine, but it looked like the one in the VFAQ.

The outer CV only has another spring clip holding it so you can pop it off like
97egl said.
 

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Unless I'm not understanding something it looks like I can do this without removing either the entire axle, or the half axle that goes into the carrier bearing, or even the inner part of that half axle and boot that goes into the inner "TJ" case.

Instead, I can just remove the outer boot and clamps and carefully hammer the outer "BJ" case off the outer part of the half axle (avoiding either marring the case by using a block of wood or pulling the axle out of the "TJ" case by using vice grips).

Then I just clean everything there, inspect for damage, and if it looks ok apply fresh grease, install the new boot and clamps, reinstall the "BJ" case, and I'm good to go.

Is this correct?
 
Unless I'm not understanding something it looks like I can do this without removing either the entire axle, or the half axle that goes into the carrier bearing, or even the inner part of that half axle and boot that goes into the inner "TJ" case.

Instead, I can just remove the outer boot and clamps and carefully hammer the outer "BJ" case off the outer part of the half axle (avoiding either marring the case by using a block of wood or pulling the axle out of the "TJ" case by using vice grips).

Then I just clean everything there, inspect for damage, and if it looks ok apply fresh grease, install the new boot and clamps, reinstall the "BJ" case, and I'm good to go.

Is this correct?
Yes you are correct. The only part of the axle that will come off with that method is the outer CV joint. I believe you are referring to that part as "BJ"

Do be careful to avoid knocking debris in the grease once you have the boot off. If the grease is contaminated (which may be the case depending on how long it was ripped) you will have to remove the cage and ball bearings from the joint to remove all the grease and install new. If this happens make sure to mark the side of the ball cage that is facing you as it is not symmetrical but can be installed backwards.... ask me how I know.

Also if you don't have to remove all the old grease don't put all the new grease in that comes with the CV boot or it will leak from having too much.
 
Given that it's been torn for who knows how long, I think it's safer to just remove all the old grease, clean everything up, and pack it with new grease. This also gives me a chance to inspect the parts that make contact and move to see if they're worn or damaged. The Beck/Arnley boot kit I'm ordering comes with fresh grease.
 
I believe you are referring to that part as "BJ"

That's the correct abbreviation. The outer joint is a Ball Joint (BJ) and the inner a Tripod Joint (TJ). The tripod joint allows the axle to move in and out to account for the change in length as it sweeps an arc.
 
That's the correct abbreviation. The outer joint is a Ball Joint (BJ) and the inner a Tripod Joint (TJ). The tripod joint allows the axle to move in and out to account for the change in length as it sweeps an arc.
Learn something new every day. Thanks!
 
That's the correct abbreviation. The outer joint is a Ball Joint (BJ) and the inner a Tripod Joint (TJ). The tripod joint allows the axle to move in and out to account for the change in length as it sweeps an arc.
I was just going by the FSM, but this further explains it.
 
Sorry, just to make sure, what style clamps are these and what kind of tool would I need to tighten and secure them properly? Aren't they band, not ear clamps, and if so wouldn't a decent set of pliers be sufficient to do the job? They're what come with the Beck/Arnley boot kit.

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