The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

prosport accuracy

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Air/Fuel gauges are nothing but a disco light show.
I've had some Pro Sport gauges and I've found them to be off by a bit (1-5 psi or degrees) plus they are slow to react to changes.

I'm replacing all my Prosport gauges with AEM.
 
Don't waist the money on A/F guages. I found that out the hardway. Spend the extra for a wideband.

Blurred, why do you say the prosport are not accurate? Are you saying that their Boost/vac guage is 1-5psi off? Are you sure its not install error? That is a pretty bold statement, and a very significant problem if they are this inaccurate. If your set to run 20psi, and its really 25, or opposite that could cuase some serious problems... How are you determining accuracy? I am on the fense between prosport and glowshift so if your saying these guages are garbage (inaccurate) then that should be made known through this site. Being accurate and precisie is a KEY importance of a guage, can it give the correct reading, with repeated results.
 
Don't waist the money on A/F guages. I found that out the hardway. Spend the extra for a wideband.

Blurred, why do you say the prosport are not accurate? Are you saying that their Boost/vac guage is 1-5psi off? Are you sure its not install error? That is a pretty bold statement, and a very significant problem if they are this inaccurate. If your set to run 20psi, and its really 25, or opposite that could cuase some serious problems... How are you determining accuracy? I am on the fense between prosport and glowshift so if your saying these guages are garbage (inaccurate) then that should be made known through this site. Being accurate and precisie is a KEY importance of a guage, can it give the correct reading, with repeated results.

Is this because they dont read correctly? Like do they give out false info or what.
 
They are based of a reading from the ECU. A wideband has a dedicated O2 sensor that is mounted on the downpipe. The signal goes to the guage and gives you an exact reading of the a/f in the exhaust. A regular a/f guage isn't getting information from a dedicated O2 sensor and typically when installed in the car just bounces around left to right, and that is why most call it the "disco" light.
 
Air/Fuel gauges are nothing but a disco light show.
I've had some Pro Sport gauges and I've found them to be off by a bit (1-5 psi or degrees) plus they are slow to react to changes.

I'm replacing all my Prosport gauges with AEM.

I had Prosport gauges in one of my previous dsms and found them to be just as good/accurate as the very expensive Apex'i gauges that i have. I had boost, egt, and oil pressure. I did find that the Prosports move a little slower than the Apex'is but it wasn't bad. Very nice gauges for the price of them. For a wideband though, i would go with zeitronix or aem becuase you can log with them.
 
I have all Prosport Gauges. They are accurate for me. I have tested the boost gauge, oil pressure, and fuel pressure gauge against Autometer gauges and the gauge on my compressor. Always read dead on.
 
Aem UEGO is pretty cheap, get that.

Like Knochgoon says, a Narrowband a/f gauge isn't good for any turboed car, If i hopped into a turboed car with a narrowband, I would straight up ask the owner what the point of that gauge is.

Go AEM/ or Autometer Phantom is 'decent'
 
I'm an Autometer fanboy. I haven't had any prosports, but I had a couple of glowshift tinted gauges.

The boost gauge showed up reading -3 vac and the auto temp senor was lower than it should've been, this was before taking them out of the box.
 
I have a Prosport boost gauge...ran it in my old DSM as well. Shit was accurate for me. MachV even said they are just as accurate as Autometer.
 
I wouldn't get Prosports A/F gauge but rather get something more proven like the NGK w/ NTK sensor. I'm using Prosport digital boost, oil and fuel pressure gauges. The digital boost gauge is accurate on boost pressure but not vaccum (using Omni 4bar and wastegate springs to compare). Both the oil and fuel pressure are also relatively accurate (using SW gauges I had before to compare).

I never look at these gauges going down the track to be honest. All my attentions are on steering straight and shifting. If you're going 0-60mph in <2.5s and 80-100mph in <1.5s, do you think you can look at all the gauges and know what's going on, while looking straight ahead and not miss a shift? LOL

I would suggest you get some reliable, logable sensors so you can log with available inputs using DSMlink. You will get a better picture of what's going on by looking at the logs than try to memorize your gauge readings.
 
Don't waist the money on A/F guages. I found that out the hardway. Spend the extra for a wideband.

Blurred, why do you say the prosport are not accurate? Are you saying that their Boost/vac guage is 1-5psi off? Are you sure its not install error? That is a pretty bold statement, and a very significant problem if they are this inaccurate. If your set to run 20psi, and its really 25, or opposite that could cuase some serious problems... How are you determining accuracy? I am on the fense between prosport and glowshift so if your saying these guages are garbage (inaccurate) then that should be made known through this site. Being accurate and precisie is a KEY importance of a guage, can it give the correct reading, with repeated results.

From my own personal experience. The boost gauge was actually off 2 or 3 psi (I can't remember exactly) and it was slow to respond (say when doing a WOT pull). I'm much more pleased with my AEM Tru Boost.
Don't even get me started on the cheap connectors the use on the wiring harness.
As for the install thing, it's not hard to install a Boost gauge. Power, ground, back lighting and then run a vacuum line to a boost source.

Honestly I've tried the whole cheap parts thing a couple times and not with just my DSM either. Every time it's come back to bite me in the ass. From now on I only buy quality stuff, sure it's more expensive but it lasts longer and works.

Autometer is fairly cheap if price is an issue for you.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top