Post your sputter, mis-fire, buck, stutter, etc...

[blcknspo0ln]

hello hangout thread for 6 years ago!

 

[Enforcer30]

Hello,

This is an old topic that has a ton of information, I want to see what you all think of the problem I am having.

I have 1994 TSI AWD, pretty much all stock. I do have boost controller, turbo timers and pilar gauges.

I am having a VERY random misfire problem that doesn't seem to have any good reason of what is setting it off.

It will run fine all day for example, then I will run into a store come out start the car and it acts like it is running on 3 cylinders. No power and the Air/Fuel mixture says it is leaned way out. The problem does not change at any rpm.

Once I get it home, start it up the next day and it runs fine. I am just starting to work on this problem so I have not changed anything yet..

Any good suggestions on where to start?

Thanks!

 

[ddpmj]

I have a 95 eclipse gs when it first started doin it would not go over 5000 rpms now it it does it in any rpm and tries to shut off its real bad i replaced the fuel filter fuel pump and the egr valve.im thinkin maybe coilpack or spark plug wires but im not sure so i need help guys

 

[kneipperk]

well i dont know how many years this thread has been around but i too have a misfire or fuel cut issue going on. i got the car and it ran good boosted 14psi but the throttle was sticking open, i took the tb elbow off and sprayed a gang of carb cleaner. got it pretty clean but now my shaft seals were leaking (car jerked hard when trying to boost). so i took the tb apart and did the shaft seals and cleaned the hell out of the tb while it was off. put it all back together and car ran awesome for the day. that night when i got gas the car started to run like crap when boostin was like 3cylinders or something and boost would only go up to 8psi. was almost positive it was bad gas, drained it all out and put in new gas, seemed to make a little difference but didnt solve my problem. replaced spark plugs and that seemed to give me more power (just made the car jerk even harder) the boost will go up to 14psi again but bad misfire or fuel cut. it seems to happen at any rpm and any psi of boost. would tps make this dramatic of a effect? does it sound like fuel related? going to check the ohms of tps and try to check the coil pack. fuel pump? fuel injectors? clogged fuel filter? i can give it full throttle but as soon as the boost builds up then i have problems. no boost leaks nowhere since i fix the shaft seals. oh yeah cel p0505ever since i got the car but it still ran good before...... would the iac or tps make the car run horrible under boost?

 

[brownfinger]

well i dont know how many years this thread has been around but i too have a misfire or fuel cut issue going on.
it seems to happen at any rpm and any psi of boost. would tps make this dramatic of a effect? does it sound like fuel related? going to check the ohms of tps and try to check the coil pack. fuel pump? fuel injectors? clogged fuel filter? i can give it full throttle but as soon as the boost builds up then i have problems. no boost leaks nowhere since i fix the shaft seals. oh yeah cel p0505ever since i got the car but it still ran good before...... would the iac or tps make the car run horrible under boost?

This thread is in the Hangout because it isn't really intended as a diagnostic tool. Use the search feature, and find-out what that code is. I have a 1G, I wouldn't know. If I were just throwing money at the problem, I'd start with replacing the coil, the wires, too. Maybe wires, then coil. See if you can borrow one from somebody to see if that's it. It seems like you haven't had the car long. You should replace the fuel filter anyway. And get a datalogger. Good luck.

 

[landrocket]

my car had same problem and it was the ignition control module. (referred in the haynes manual as the power transistor.) try that out.

 

[Achelea]

My Car suddenly decided to start dying at 10lbs. I wonder if the 15*F might be a factor.

 

[waterd]

after i put a new head on with different wires and intake. it sputtered bad while accelerating. replaced fuel filter. no change. tested tps. all good. hooked up mulitmeter to obd connector. kept getting fault code "14 tps". went on all data. one tech tip on there said to clear code then let ideal for at least 10 min to let the tps relearn it self. if still idleing bad clean throttle plate. I disconnected battery to clear code. while doing that i put different plug wires on for when i steamed the motor off it got worse. hooked up battery let idle for 10 min. runs great. never had this much power. I love it. thanks for all the notes and commets. this website has helped me fix some major problems.

 

[idkiliketurbos]

I replaced my spark plugs and wires with some new ngk wires and ngk bpr6es plugs and it runs perfect now. It used to buck when i would try and accelerate too much.

 

[boostantix]

brand new plug wires and plugs (NGK and NGK coppers), car shoots to 2.2k rpm when cold starting, then about 10 sec's after firing, the idle tries to come down, and then dies, this happens about 4 times before the car will idle on it's own. once it idles, it seems like its struggling to stay alive, idle is at 750-850, but it will idle low enough to turn the batt. light on, and will SLOWLY pick back up and the light goes out. all the time at an idle, it seems like an occasional misfire, exhaust doesnt really smell rich, once it warms up. also, to start the car it takes about 12sec of cranking, it will sputter, and then fall, keep cranking it and eventually it starts screaming to 2.2k RPM, only when cold though, starts fine when warm, but idles horribly. throttle response for free revving is sluggish, but over 1500 RPM the engine is smooth as could be, and pulls nice and hard, no sputtering on shifts or anything, all the way to redline. was thinking my TPS? or ISC, any ideas?

oh, i had a code of P0505 once, cleared it weeks ago and it has yet to come back.... all comunication with the ECU is still good with my scan tool, it shows me all readings of every sensor that can give feed back under the hood.

 

[decalguy]

Hi my wife has a stock 94 Talon DL, 1.8L 5sp. manual fwd. it starts and idles just fine, after driving for anywhere from 2-4 miles it starts to buck, then it will start to stall, gauges drop like the key was shut off. It gets progressively worse until you have to coast over and let it cool for awhile. After it cools it will start and drive for anywhere from a couple hundred feet to maybe a couple miles depending on how long it sat. There is no engine light on. A mechanic said he could diagnose it, we dropped it off and he let it run then drove it for maybe 20 miles, nothing. My wife took him for a ride, nothing ran like a scalded cat. Next day, bucking and stalling again. I was told to clean the maf sensor with sensor safe cleaner, I did, still the same. When it stalls you can hear the fuel pump relay cutting on and off under the dash. I've been told that it can't be hooked to a computer because it's too old. I just want to get it running and sell this thing. I'm sorry if this has been covered in another forum that I didn't see. I just found out about this website a couple days ago.

 

[brownfinger]

Hi my wife has a stock 94 Talon DL, 1.8L 5sp. manual fwd. it starts and idles just fine, after driving for anywhere from 2-4 miles it starts to buck, then it will start to stall, gauges drop like the key was shut off. It gets progressively worse until you have to coast over and let it cool for awhile. After it cools it will start and drive for anywhere from a couple hundred feet to maybe a couple miles depending on how long it sat. There is no engine light on. A mechanic said he could diagnose it, we dropped it off and he let it run then drove it for maybe 20 miles, nothing. My wife took him for a ride, nothing ran like a scalded cat. Next day, bucking and stalling again. I was told to clean the maf sensor with sensor safe cleaner, I did, still the same. When it stalls you can hear the fuel pump relay cutting on and off under the dash. I've been told that it can't be hooked to a computer because it's too old. I just want to get it running and sell this thing. I'm sorry if this has been covered in another forum that I didn't see. I just found out about this website a couple days ago.

Sounds like classic leaky-caps-in-the-ECU. Try to find a used ECU for a 1.8, open it, check/replace the caps, throw it in and see what's up. Also, open your ECU and check it. It's behind the radio, it's easy to get out.

89-94 Capacitor Replacement

VFAQ Site - Visual Frequently Answered Questions

 

[decalguy]

Where do I find these 'caps'? I have a hard time finding parts for it as it is, . I went to the local Mopar dealership looking for a fuel pump relay, they couldn't find it, didn't know if it even had one and told me to call Mitsubishi. I did, they said they needed a Chrysler part number even though it is stamped with the dsm logo.

 

[decalguy]

Ok, I pulled the ecu and opened it up. I'm not sure what bad caps look like but these look ok and there's no smell. The board looks ok too. There is some streaking but it's above them in the top third of the circuit board. I don't see any signs of leakage or corrosion. Can the caps be bad and not show it? and can it be checked by someone? It was suggested by a mechanic here that it might be the ignition coil, any ideas on that? Thanks.

 

[brownfinger]

Ignition coil wouldn't make any clicking sounds in the dash. The guages going crazy is the part that is 100% a hard-core flashback to when my ECU blew. Ha! Your car has a distributor! If you can find the FI relay, just read the MB or MD part # off the relay, to the mitsu parts guys. But, you really should be using used parts on this beast. Especially when you aren't sure what's wrong. You can read this cars computer, but not with the OBD II machines they have at autozone. You need a datalogger. It's a $30 palm IIIc PDA from ebay, and a $25 cable.

try these guys for an ECU or relays:
DSM Graveyard - Your #1 Source for DSM Parts!

 

[decalguy]

I've had the fuel injector relay off of it. It has a part no. that starts with E. When I told the Mitsu dealer parts counter they told me they can't look it up because it doesn't start with M. He said I had to get a Chrysler part number, except that Chrysler said he couldn't find one listed or a picture of one. The noise under the dash isn't a rapid clicking. It's a metallic sounding 'tink' when it stalls, then again when/if it kicks in and starts to run again. I checked the ohms of the relay as it said in the Haynes manual. It was higher than what it is supposed to be. Haynes said around 95, it had approx 122 cold, and 133 warm.

 

[974g63t]

I have a 1997 GST that I just put the head back on after slipping timing and bending all my exhaust valves. I completed the car a week ago, and it runs great. The only problem I'm having now is that it lopes at idle and makes and arcing sound around the injector area and or the valve cover area. I haven't added any performance parts except a 3" downpipe which was added before the timing slipped. Does anyone have any idea why it lopes and arcs at idle?

 

[brownfinger]

Bad insulation on some wires? Seems like a no-brainer.

 

[974g63t]

The timing was slightly off, but haven't changed it yet

 

[colbyc]

Ok, as i was driving down the road one of my safc2 wires came unhooked the solder broke somehow, drove for about 5 more min. and parked it and kept it out of boost the whole way, well it was bogging real bad and running rich after this happened, so i get home take out the safc2 and put my eprom with dsmlink v2.5 in, now the CEL's are gone but now only on warmup about 10 min before it warms up decently it bogs down like really really bad around 1500-2500 rpms and after it gets past that it runs fine top end wise, then after it warms up real good it runs great...I'm thinking tps, maybe, or another sensor, any help would be appreciated

 

[nothingfiction]

2G Naturally Aspirated 420A

Mods: Engine
01: Megan Racing air intake
01: Spectre Performance air filter
02: Megan Racing cat-back exhaust
03: Pacesetter high flow cat
04: Megan Racing exhaust header
05: Howell Automotive 55mm Throttle Body
06: Ported Intake Manifold (bored inlet to 55mm)
07: Crower stage 2 camshafts
07: AEM cam gears
08: Howell Automotive AFX underdrive pulley.

More mods are on my profile.

Poor video but you get the jist...
But hey! it has good audio!

Take a look and let me know what you think and what i can do to solve my low idle.
Any other things you motorhead gurus can pic up just from sound please let me know. i am kinda tone deaf at engine sounds.
Thanks for your time and any responses.

NOTICE!
This is the 420A engine! Not the 4G63
Notice, there is no CEL on

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[gage333]

whats up guys, just wanted to add to this thread about my problem that im having after doing a 6 bolt swap on a 95 talon tsi awd. I started the car and had to step on the gas or else it would die. At first it would rev all the way up to 7k but after a couple seconds it wouldnt want to accelerate past 3500 rpmWTF. Now this is the part that confuses me, when i have the TPS hooked up it does the 3500 rpm thing, but when i disconnect the TPS and start the car, its fine for a few minutes then it sticks open at 4500 rpmWTF. Im still trying to figure out whats going on. As soon as i figure out the problem im gonna post it. I hope its soon

 

[sighless]

after months of searching and throwing money at the car, i found that my car just needed a fuel pump re-wire done..

after 2 hours this morning and alot of sweat.. the car runs awesome again...

the parts i put on before were, fuel filter, new injectors, cleaned the MAS, new wires, new plugs, new coil, new transistor, new alternator, new battery.. checked ecu for caps..

turned out to be just a fuel pump re-wire.

 

[Pirrofab]

Ive had a 92 fwd that just needed good qaulity plugs and wires and a few boost leaks fixed to solve a random hesitiation and bucking issue that would actually cause the boost to spike up about 5-6 psi over my settings. ( used factory heat range ngk plugs and taylor 10.4mm wires)

On my 90 tsi I had a misfire and hesitiation getting into boost due to running 9.3AFR's. running that rich was just simply to much fuel and would cause a rich miss. Leaning it out was all it needed. ( ecmlink version3) Uses taylor thundervolt 50 wires and factory ngk plugs.)

My fiances 96tsi also had a bucking issue getting into boost and cruising after i degreased the engine. I found that wat4er got down under the plug boots and was laying in the spark plug well. After the water dried up the problem went away. I went ahead and put in new plugs and wires anyway as they were original. ( uses carquest wires and factory ngk plugs)

 

[izzone913]

1990 Eagle Talon all stock. Idles like a dream but as soon as I touch the gas pedal it boggs up to 2k and will rev between 1600-2000 rpm's. If you hold down gas it will bogg up to like 2500-3000 but come right back down to 1500 1600 and go right back up to 3000.