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porting my 14b, oldman, your needed

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staticbrainwash said:
when you guys are porting the turbo areas, it looks like you are fully pulling the turbo apart. i know it's just one clamp, but how bad are they to pull apart and then in turbo reassemble. I'd like to port my 14b when i go to put my 2g manny and o2 on. should i pick up a rebuild kit for it too while im at it?

well is it leaking oil, or seized wheel, or not making boost? if it is leaking oil and you want to port it then i would just take it out and do that then. and it is obvious if you are not making boost or anything, then you have to rebuild or replace the 14b. mine was leaking oil ever sense i bought the car, but i always thought it was the breather line drawing in more oil from the engine. i now have to change it because it burns lots of oil that comes out of my exhaust and covers the road with heavy smoke. so my answer to you is rebuild it if it will make the porting easier and it is due for a rebuild. other then that you can unhook you exhaust manifold, and downpipe. then you could unbolt that center clamp and gently take off the turbine housing. then you can port your hearts desire...LOL. just dont lose the centering exhaust pin like i did after a few hours of porting the turbine housing, :mad:.
hope this helps,
later
 
91-gsx said:
you said you ported the turbine outlet, what was it before on the evo3 16g, and how much did you port it to? or did you just smooth it out? this is very interesting and a lot of us are benefiting from this thread.
later


On the turbine outlet side I didn't do any major porting as the outlet is 2.5" to start with. All I did was remove the rough casting and make it nice and smooth :thumb:

As for taking the turbo apart they are pretty easy. The vband clamp holds the turbine housing on & then the comp cover is held on with a large snap ring. A good set of needle nose pliers works great for removing the snap ring. While taking the snap ring off can be done by one person, you'll probably need somone to help you put it back on. When you do go to put it back together, there is a locating pin to line up & take a look at the snap ring as there is a difference between the top & bottom. The top side is cut at an angle while the bottom has a square edge. If you don't install it with the right side up the ring won't seat properly.
 
Ok i just wanted to take the pictures for you to see before i completely took it apart.... I'm getting an external wg and mounting it on my manifold and then i got an o2 housing i can use. I wont have to weld the flapper shut either, because the o2 hosuing im getting doesnt have a tube there at all. But I am going to port more because i feel i could do allot more to inhance the spooling characteristis. Like completely elminating the step, which i didnt quite do.
 
good job laser craver, it looks a lot better. the area above the wastegate looks just like mine so if it does not eliminate the boost creep for you, then it won't do it for me either. nice job on the o2 housing as well, thats going to be hella loud...LOL. i am about done on my 14b rebuild and i will be posting pics of all the things i have done.
later
 
i have confidence that it will elminate it and if it dont illbe pissed cause ill have to weld my cat back in :(
 
well i would not weld the cat back in because that is not a solution to your problem when looking to make horsepower. if it does not work just port some more, this is the cheapest and easiest way you can rid yourself of boost creep and make more power due to having no restrictions in the exhause(ie. cat). this is just a solution for low boost on my 14b, but i still want to run 20-22psi on pump with my 14b, and dont forget, tons of timing. this is all very possible with the alcohol injection kit that i am going to buy. now that i have found a place that carries methanol, its time to set some new 14b records:sneaky: .
later
 
hey guys, these are some pics of what i did on the coldside of the 14b. all i did for performance on the coldside of the turbo was port and polish the turbo inlet in to the shape of a velocity stack, i basically did what 92awddsm said about radiusing the inlet, thanks for the tip 92awddsm, definately worth some rep points. and the other picture i took is of the locating pin i drilled out of the coldside of the turbo. this allows me to clock the 14b, now i can make it face down for a shorter fmic install i am going to be doing very soon. i will be posting more pics right now of the porting i did on the hotside of the turbo.
 

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these are of the hotsides turbine inlet and the outlet. i removed the step in the inlet while maintaining the cone shape that you need. you can also see that i removed a good amount of cast iron from the area above the wastegate inlet. i also ported the turbine outlet from the stock 2.25" to 2.5", now it perfectly matches my o2 housing inlet. i also ported the wastegate hole as much as i could, while making sure i did not remove soo much that the wastegate flapper would not seal. i then removed material from the area behind the wategate flapper so that it could open at a 90 degree angle. now it is time to put my 14b back together and try her out. i think it should perform considerably better over stock. i will update you on my progress once the turbo is put together.
later
 

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My inlet looks like I removed allot more material above the wastegate entrance then yours... So hopefully I have no more creep. I to removed some material in the actual w/g hole and made the wg open to about 80-85* not the full 90 because then id have to match the o2 housing to it....
 
oldman said:
Well did it work? :)

hey oldman, were have you been man? did you take a look at the porting that i have done? do you recommend either laser craver or i do a little more porting above the wastegate entrance? good to see your still here, thought you got too old for a second, if you know what i mean.
later
 
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