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plz help im new

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flipjbm

Probationary Member
13
0
Mar 27, 2005
Oklahoma City, Oklahoma
Im pretty new to dsms and just bought a new car.
It's a first gen 6 bolt, has rods and pistons, 272 aftermarket cams, 16g big turbo.

I've read old posts of people doing this but never if it caused a big problem or how to fix it. The car was running fine until i vented the bov for about 30 minutes then hooked it back up again when i found out it was bad for the car. The car never had any problems till the next day when i turned it on and warmed it up then started to drive it. The car started to sputter real bad and the check engine light is on so i changed the plugs. It still runs really really rich and i have no idea whats wrong. When i get on it and boost hits it runs fine but in lower rpms it sputters real bad. The stock boost gauge wont read anything also. Can anyone tell me what they think is wrong with it and what i can do. Maybe a boost leak? if so wheres a common area to first check?
 
My first guess would be that you messed up the ECUs fuel trims by running open like that. Try disconnecting the battery to reset the ECU to it's base maps. The car may stall a couple of times until it re-learns all the trims and ISC settings to keep things going then see how it runs.
 
yeah i tried that after i posted my first post but i only disconnected the battery for a minute, but i still get the engine light, studder, and no readings from the stock boost controller, my aftermarket one works. Do you think i should just leave it off for the night?
 
their off now, does venting damage anything on your car besides making your car run rich? If its vented too much will it damage more then just your plugs and wires?.....After i let the car sit for a while should it reset all the codes be run like normal again?
 
It only takes a minute to bleed the power from the capacitors in the ECU and reset it. If you have an engine light something else is wrong. If you mean the engine has a light stumble, thats something different. I don't have the cams in mine so I can't say but, that might be the stumble you are feelaing if the engine RPMs are low and the Hot cams arn't letting the engine breathe correctly due to valve overlap. If the car is drivable I would see if the engine smoothes out after some run time as the ECU re-learns.
 
dang i hope its nothing serious because the engine light stays on. The car sounds the same at idle when it ran with no studders and no problems as it did before. Its just when i start giving it gas from 1,000-3,500 but once boost starts to hit the studder goes away....stupid mistake by me messes my car up
 
Go to a shop and let them check it out because a 50 dollar check up is better then blowing your engine or any other damage you can cause by running it with your check engine light. On the other hand check the engine light can come on for a bad gas cap, so it may not be that bad.
 
the stock boost gauge doesnt read anything even at full throttle, check engine light is still on after leaving the battery unhooked all night, no idea what to do...maybe a boost leak or something but if it was a leak would the check engine light be on?
 
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