Oil squirters and stock internals

[viprez586]

Okay, I've searched but need to know some answers from some wisemen.

Background: Bought engine from Karking and after break in had unusually low compression (125psi across the board). Couple months ago the engine overheated and warped the head so now I'm rebuilding it.

I'm going to be running .020" over-sized pistons, they are stock replacements made by rock pistons. I plan on running a E316G and ideally shooting for 300-350hp. I've been really good with keeping my coolant temperatures in check (203-206*F at all times). That's why you never let someone else drive your car.

Problem is Kar King, in their infinite wisdom gave me a N/T block with turbo accessories. It also has the balance shafts removed so i know this equals really high oil pressure.
Machining the block to accept the squirters is probably going to be ridiculously expensive.

Here are my ideas to combat the issue:

• Run External oil cooler with a fan to operate at all times(once up to operating temp of course) to keep the oil as cool as possible.
• Port oil filter housing relief valve mod
• Port cylinder head mod #1

I'm curious if this is why I've been having problems with low compression in the first place - thus not cooling the pistons enough and frying the rings in the process.

I guess my question here is what can I do on the budget side of things, or is the risk to great and should i either find a turbo block, or have them machine my n/t block to accept the squirters.

 

[viprez586]

Well I guess no one has any thoughts, ideas, or opinions here.
I decided to run without them and if I do have issues I will go with forged pistons.

 

[Maglin]

I'm curious if this is why I've been having problems with low compression in the first place - thus not cooling the pistons enough and frying the rings in the process.

I guess my question here is what can I do on the budget side of things, or is the risk to great and should i either find a turbo block, or have them machine my n/t block to accept the squirters.

First off oil squirters are their to cool off the piston. The rings are not cooled by the squirters. They may see very very minimal thermal transfer but almost all the heat goes into the aluminum piston and not the steel rings.

I would not sweat it. As far as the low compression that is something I would look into. I would do a dry and wet compression test. Then a leakdown test if a wet test doesn't bring the compression up over 155 PSI.

A leakdown test is the best way to go. Starter speed plays a hugh part in a compression test. So battery condition also is a large part. A leakdown test will show how much you are leaking and it if's 15% or less then you are golden.

 

[slowgsr]

go with a forged cheap weisco piston and an off the shelf eagle rod, it will cost less than $700 and you will be able to make lots of power. I wouldn't trust any 'stock block' parts, except the OEM mitsu stuff when it comes to pushing the stock block.

 

[CPHunter]

Rock Pistons Suck. Mine blew up on me after i did 18psi. They are lower then OEM quality. I don't know why KarKing keeps using them. thats why on there website it says if your gonna push over 18psi. this motor is not for you. to cover there ass

 

[TOONAH]

I agree. Good forged pistons, do not need oil squirters. There is nothing bad about high oil pressure, other than it can blow gaskets and seals. You should always use a good external oil cooler on any performance engine. I don't eat at Burger King and I do not buy parts from Car King!!