Oil question

[ktgurl87]

Ok... so I've done a couple searches for a direct answer to my question, and I haven't found one, even in the basic maintenance thread.

For a '96 4g63 motor... does it need synthetic oil? On the computers at work it calls for conventional 5w30. Says nothing about synthetic. We've been using Castrol High Mileage 5w30 and 10w30. Please let me know so while this car is down so I can change it. (gotta drain the oil anyway for the new turbo). I'm just looking for a straight answer "yes it needs synthetic oil and you need to use such-and-such weight." "no you don't need to use synthetic, conventional is fine." Thank You in advance for not giving me crap about the oil. I've almost about had it with this car.

 

[MattUnderwood]

I've always been told to use Full Synthetic. I have a 1g but I dont see why it would change that much for 2g and I always run 10w-30.

 

[OneBad2L]

It's all preference. Conventional is perfect synthetic is perfect too. If it's high milage and you've been using conventional I would not switch. Winters comming so a 5w30 of your choice will suit you just fine.

 

[westcoast]

If your engine has more than 75K miles I normally refrain from using Synthetics. Conventional Oil or a "Blend" is a wiser choice for 90% of the daily driven DSM's. Especially since a good Synthetic is much more expensive than your quality conventional.

Now if your engine was just rebuilt, I would recommend a Synthetic. And as stated, the coming Winter is approaching and a 5w-30 conventional oil would be an optimal choice.

Good Luck

 

[ktgurl87]

Thank You all so very much

 

[scott91370]

You don't need synthetic. I have run it in my 2g since about 10k miles and I currently have 136k. The only thing I have heard is if the car has high milage do not switch to synthetic because you can start to have leaks. True, I don't know. Why, I don't know.

 

[Fusionworks]

Another thing to keep in mind is your turbo likes synthetics vs conventionals.

 

[ktgurl87]

from what i've told about synthetics... once the oil starts to break down, it's not bouncing back. with conventional oils, once it cools down, then it is the "same as it was yesterday" is actually what i was told. i've talked to a couple different folks (who all know something about cars, and one who used to race) and the one used to race actually told me it's not necessary. he says that since we've been putting conventional high mileage oil in it, then to keep conventional high mileage in it, and that the motor actually wouldn't do well with an oil switch like that.

 

[dsm03]

You don't need synthetic. I have run it in my 2g since about 10k miles and I currently have 136k. The only thing I have heard is if the car has high milage do not switch to synthetic because you can start to have leaks. True, I don't know. Why, I don't know.

The reason behind that is, If you may have a leak or tiny hole, synthetic is a lot more of a thinner oil, vs Conventional its thicker and does not run down as smooth so in a way it sort of.. keeps the areas that may leak patched. One thing why I have heard on why one should try not and switch oils and keep running what the car is used to is because off what I have already stated and what the engine is already used too.

 

[Devilman]

a good conventional 10-30 all year round
unless your seeing -20 degrees and below 10-30 is thin enough for start up in the winter
u have a turbo car, they like to get hot!

but what do i know, my dsm only sees vr1 20-50 anymore...

 

[DSM1G90]

When our DSM's came out, synthetic oils were a bit on the rare side to find and very pricey - is why you see listings for conventional oils.

You can use dino oils, just have to keep up on the oil changes more sooner since the molecular structure breaks down a lot sooner than synthetic oils do and lose anti-friction qualities.

And that's nonsense that synthetic oils are thinner and will leak. That's a bunch of camel-poo! For that would contradict in recommendation on using synthetic oils for turbo motors ....

-DSM

 

[SHaman]

Go to bobistheoilguy.com, and look in the UOA section for your car/engine. If you have oil dilution problems, the synthetic will be better for your car, because it can take care of problems better than conventional. But, if you are not experience injector or coolant leaks, and aren't track racing it with oil temps sustained at 225 plus, you won't really experience a difference unless you extend your oil drain interval.

 

[floader]

I do wonder what the sustained oil temps are on these cars? has to be at least coolant temp (190-200 on my car) and may be higher on if you have a oil cooled turbo.

 

[DSM1G90]

oil temps are around 250 to 275 degree mark when block is fully hot in normal driving-and these are actual recommended tempertures for effective lubrications. Too hot and the oil begins to break down and this is what the oil sump is for - like a cooling area to get the oil temp down some before heading back into the block.

Turbos do run hotter why we have either air or water cooled oil coolers to get the temp back in the range mentioned.

I've seen finned devices that wrap around the filter to aid in oil cooling.