not boost leak.. so???

[darkiller_666]

So i changed from my stock manifold and 02 housing to a tubular mani and atmospheric dump 02 housing. When i floor it the car builds boost fine until around 4500k rpm then it hits a brick wall and makes a violent jerk. I did some reading and made a boost tester. The car had bad boost leaks from the TB. I tried replacing the shaft seals still leaked. So i bought one from the classifieds. I put it on ran boost test from the intake side of the turbo and capped the IC piping before the TB. Held as much boost as i could pump with the bike pump im using, no leaks. Put it on the TB elbow to pressurize the the TB and IM. Held boost perfectly. Put it all back together and ran the boost test from the turbo all the way through the TB and IM. No leaks. all sorts of excited i got in the car went around the block, same problem. Tried using my SAFC to raise or lower fuel, no differences. I am at a lost. If its not boost it has to be fuel cut or spark problems. got brand new spark plugs gapped at .028. I have a td05h 16g. I dont know if the injectors are stock or the fuel pump. the fuel pump has a red wire that looks like an amp power wire running to it. I dont know if thats normal or if its an aftermarket pump. if i hold the throttle at half way the car will run through the gears but still jerky not as violent but a lot more, less violent, jerks. Any hel would be greatly appreciated!!!!

 

[stefanOst]

How much boost are you running?

I dont know if the injectors are stock or the fuel pump.

BTW, in your profile it says you are running 550cc injectors.

If the injectors or fuel pump are stock, it might be fuel cut you are getting.

 

[thiazole]

Does it still do it if you turn your boost down all the way? If not then it is probably spark related. You probably wouldn't get fuel cut at half throttle anyway, so I kind of doubt that is your problem. Spark plug wires can cause these problems as well.

 

[darkiller_666]

All i have is my stock boost gauge. My BCS is removed. My wastegate runs straigh to a T in my BOV line. I bought a boost controller and installed it and turned it all the way down. I think the way i have it runs it at as low PSI as poosible. I think the wastegate is at 9 maybe? So i dont know exactly what im running. It did not have this problem before the new MANI and 02. The old mani had a bad crack in the bottom side that i didnt know was there, probly been there sence i bought the car. I was assuming it had upgraded injectors. the fuel pump is probably upgraded too. I dont see why someone would of got a SAFC without having upgraded fuel system.

 

[CanadianTSi]

So you have no Idea how much boost your actually running?

I would stay out of boost until you get a boost gauge in there so you can see whats going on.

 

[stefanOst]

Not to sound like a jerk, but finding out exactly what parts you are working with is probably a good idea before you play around with the safc. That way you can know type of stuff you are dealing with. A real boost gauge is also a must, the stock one tells you nothing.

Also, most people will tell you that teeing into the BOV line for your boost controller can cause some problems, messing up the signal to the WG.

 

[someguyonline]

friend of mine had a open dump o2 housing that would make the knock sensor go crazy and pull timing?? do you have anything to datalog with?

 

[darkiller_666]

Is it possible to tell the injector size by pulling them out??? and i dont know how to find out about the fuel pump. I know i need a boost gauge but i cant afford to buy one for a car that i cant even drive.... id like to fix this before speding more money. I am planning on having a vacuum source put on my J pipe but i dont hvae one yet so i have to deal with it. and i have nothing to data log with, sorry for lack of info but the help is greatly appreciated. any suggestions would help me to atleast narrow down my problem. any suggestions for narrowing it down to fuel or spark???

 

[snowborder714]

You can either tell by the color top on the injector (blue, green, black, etc.) or if they're aftermarket, they may be marked with the size.

You should be able to tell if it's an aftermarket fuel pump if you pull it out and look at it.

I would look at getting a boost gauge, even if it's a cheap one from the classifieds or eBay for now. Anything is better than the stock POS. You don't need a vacuum source on your J pipe to install the boost gauge. Just tee into the FPS line for the source.

 

[Jeff99GS]

Check your timing Marks, Your belt mave have skipped a tooth?

 

[darkiller_666]

you said i should run it from the FPS? im not sure which line that is. Mine has all the vacuum lines removed beside the one from the IM to the BOV/WG and one from the IM to the Fuel rail. a boost gauge would be nice but i dont think that alone will fix my problem. i will look into getting one cheap though. i checked the timing and there is two marks on the Gears but i cant get them to line up next to each other to see if its off... wouldnt the timimng be off affect the car more then just a boost leak/fuel cut feeling? i would think it would idle and cruise funny too.... i will try and figure out my injector size and fuel pump but onmce i have that info how will that fix my problem???? should i be able to tune my SAFC to make it stop??? i have it all at 0% correction just becuase i dont know what im working wit yet, besides a bigger TD05H turbo.

 

[snowborder714]

Then you would use the vacuum line that runs to your FPR.

I would not touch the S-AFC until you know which injectors you have and also until you get a logger. Tuning blindly is a bad idea (especially if it's not needed).

 

[darkiller_666]

I didnt plan on messing with it until i got my car running right, would the SAFC being at 0 perhaps cause this problem?

 

[SpiralOut]

No i would leave it alone.

 

[thiazole]

If a person was covered in blood and you couldn't tell where the bleeding is coming from, would you put a band-aid on that person? That is the equivalent to making adjustments to your SAFC right now. You don't know what injectors you have so adjusting it is like throwing bandaids randomly on the person in the example and hoping you cover the wound.

 

[darkiller_666]

i understand ## clever analogies which is why i had it at 0% correction. but my point to this thread was to maybe get some suggestions on problem diagnosis, not suggestions on what i shouldnt do. Im glad we are all on agreament that the SAFC should be left alone. But leaving it as it is is not fixing my problem. Maybe i should try a new thread and word it differently, idk im just trying to find out what ways i could figure out what is causing it, or ways to maybe try and fix it. It did not do this before, and im sure all you DSM'ers understand the frustration of having ## car not running and having no idea how to fix it. If anyone has had similiar problems any suggestion is welcome on things to check or fix, im going right now to check my injectors and fuel pump.

 

[darkiller_666]

Ok, i removed my injectors. on one side they say "941 inp-018" the other side says "MDL 450" Im assuming that means they are stock 450's. They are black on top with an orange o-ring seal and green on the bottom. i also removed my brand new spark plugs i put in with the new mani, they are covered in black..... they are gapped correctly at .028. some ideas im having is, Bad fuel filter, bad spark wires, bad ignition. I am highly confident its not boost leak related.... help is greatly appreciated. I also noticed that my haynes manual says to set my firing order a certain way. if i put it in the order my haynes manual says it just turns over the backfires badly.

haynes way................ My way
_____________ ..........__________
|.....|....|.....|....|............|...................|
|.4..|.1.|.2.|.3...|...........|.2..4..3...1....|
|__|___|__|___|..........|__________|
................................................
____________.............___________
|....................|.............|..................|
|4...3...2...1..|..............|.4..3..2..1....|
|__________|............|__________|



I also noticed that the BOV is letting a very small amount of pressure out of it.

i also noticed a repeditive clickin noise when i start the car for a second. is my ignition bad???

 

[stefanOst]

Ever find out what fuel pump is in there? Possible that it is a 255lph, and with no FPR to regulate it, it might be causing the car to run mad rich, which could be the cause of the blackened spark plugs.

Don't take my word on this, but a clicking noise as you start the car makes me recall things I've read about fried capacitors on the ECU, might be some other material to read into.

 

[darkiller_666]

well after a long day of tirelessly tinkering with my car. i think i stumbled across my problem. So i figured, its not boost so its either fuel or spark. ill start with spark, it half maintance anyways and a lil on the cheaper side to narrow down. i checked where the clicking sounds was coming from and it sounded like it was coming from the ignition coil. So at idle i pulled the spark plug wire off the spark plugs one at a time. cylinder 2 and 3 both made clicking and electric arcing when i held the wire directly above the spark plug in its hole. Cylinder 1 and 4 mad no clicking or electric arcing. And there wasnt to great of a difference between plugged in and not, where as the other cylinders it made noticeable differences. So i followed the wires and they both go to the driver side of the ignition coil. I noticed that there were two different pieces for the coil, so im assuming my one side has somehow gone out. i bought one for 40 bucks hope it will be here soon. in the mean time is there any wiring i should follow or relays i should check???