no start

[dsmdriverjeff]

okay so I have been having problems with my car and I thought they were over but clearly not, I had another post about this http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/pac...sm/452183-no-spark-1st-4th.html#post153149305

So basically one night when I was driving home my car died come to find out my timing belt was missing teeth so it bent valves and my serpentine belt also broke, long story short I went through my whole car trying to figure out why it wouldn't start after I rebuilt the head, new parts include:
-ecu
-ignition control module
-ignition coil
-spark plugs
-camshaft postion sensor
-crankshaft position sensor
-alternator
-all of the belts
-battery
-and I also took out the stock air intake box and switched it with a filter


I am totally confused on why it is not starting now, when I turn the key it cranks and cranks and cranks and cranks and it almost starts up but it wont it just sputters a couple times and keeps cranking, I pulled the spark plugs and they were soaked in gas so I dried them off and I read something about holding the gas pedal to the floor while cranking will help get the car started, and it DID!!! but the problem is it'll only stay running if i'm holding the gas down, the moment I let off the gas it sputters out and dies, please someone help me I need this car for the winter time in the snow and its been dead for a year now just sitting!!! any ideas are appreciated!! thanks

 

[n0de]

Could be a massive boost leak, I had a similar issue after rebuilding my 1g auto. Turns out that I forgot to put my egr valve back on so there was a massive hole in my intake manifold. The car would be extremely hard to start but then after 1 million years and flooding the engine with gas it would then start. Search for leaks after the throttle plate.

 

[dsmdriverjeff]

Thanks i'll check when i get home, whats the egr valve?

Ok i'll check when i get home thanks, whats the egr valve?

okay so an update.... there are no leaks that I can personally see, but there is oil everywhere, by my air filter....my valve cover....even on my timing belt? I'm not sure what this means but I'm sure its not good haha also I can get the car started everytime i crank it if I hold the gas down but i need to make sure i'm constantly keeping it above 2rpm's otherwise the car will die... oh and also it makes a nasty sound unless I get the rpm's above 3 and a half and then the sound goes away? hope that info helps, but please I need help I dont know much about this whole system and I need the car running soon for winter how do I make this post more public so more people read it?

okay so even though no one seems to be responding I have another update.. I decided to reset the timing belt and after I did the car started up with no problems and a perfect idle, but once I revved it went back to what it was doing before and not staying running unless my foot is on the pedal, also I think I forgot to mention earlier my car is shooting oil everywhere... and I'm not sure where its coming from

 

[mattp_65]

Was everything Timed when you did the belt again? Sounds like a massive air leak especially oil everywhere. Maybe some kind of gasket leak (Valve cover, etc). Do you have all the lines that connect to Valve cover connected like the one to intake mani or to the intake tube?
Any pics of engine bay?

 

[blkgst97]

Where at in puyallup do you live? I may be able to lend a hand

 

[dsmdriverjeff]

I just got home so I'll go take pictures of the engine bay, I changed the timing belt and I think that this problem might be the auto tensioner, do I have to change that when I change the timing belt? because after the timing was perfect I had my girlfriend start the car while I watching everything going on in the engine bay and it sounded perfect, and then once I revved the car it went back to the same problem, would the old auto tensioner cause the timing to skip a tooth? as for the oil I'll do some more searching for leaks but I couldnt find any when I looked last time, thanks you too for the help, and blkgst97 I live off of 160th, what about you?

Alright so here's another update, I retimed the belt once again and tightned the tensioner pully super tight and then started the car and it runs great....idling.... I tried to see if it would move and it just barely creeps forward and has no power whatsoever, its very sluggish, it kinda sounds like a timing issue to me what do you guys think? also it quit spitting the oil everywhere I think it was so out of time that it was shooting oil places it shouldnt be hahaha

 

[mattp_65]

Yea the tensioner should be replaced along with water pump, BS & timing belts, etc.
Also make sure your oil pump is not out of 180 Deg.
And make sure your idle is at 5 deg

 

[dsmdriverjeff]

Alright so I figured it out, i fixed it cause it came out of time again because the belt was still loose, so I tightened it even more and now it runs great! but it is still sluggish so I had my buddy with an OB2 reader to hook it up and it threw the code P1600, this code comes up as "Serial Communications Link failure" what could this mean? I did some reading and it has to do with the TCM, so is there a relay I could check or do I just have to buy a new TCM and hope it works?