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New ISC reads 0 on dsmlink

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dragrush

15+ Year Contributor
187
2
May 1, 2004
North, Louisiana
Having idle surge, trying to figure out why...
DSMlink says the iscpos is at 0, but from what I heard its supposed to be 30. I have a new, never used ISC tested with ohm reader and is in specs. I tried different ISC and they still give me surge, not sure what the other ones read on dsmlink though.

When I unplug the maf the idle surge stops and idles at 750rpms steady and the iscpos reads 75. Adjusting the BISS does not effect the surge. No boost leaks
Anyone know what the deal may be? Will these readings mean my ISC is bad?
 
Yeah it still did it with the new ISC, I got a block off plate to eliminate the FIAV and ISC and it idles fine now

I did my own delete plate..No water in TB..No ISC motor.. and the car run like s**t Cold start up is around 2.5-3k rpms..(biss screw not working)..Once it warms the car hold sometimes 1500rpms..sometimes 1000rpms(thats what I want..)sometimes want die:ohdamn:
So I went back with ISC and Water lines to TB..idle is better it holds 1000rpms but engine surging like PIG doesn´t matter its warmed..I can´t move with throttle sloowly in low rpms(motor wants die/rpms drop)..within 3k rpms...after 3k its okay.. Iam :banghead: of it..Iam using my car in city..Could it be my BIG 1.06AR hotside?? I think people running Big T4 on 2.0l..Is there any DSMlink setings..??I can make short vid for you to understand what I mean;)
BTW howmuch should be on DSMlink for ISC..32 ???


THX
Venca
 
I have the same problem with my ISC. Dsmlink read 0 I Test it works :confused:

You could do the same thing that I usually suggest. Delete that shit, run ISC emulation in link and forget about that pain in the ass once and for all.

I do believe STM still sells the block off plate although ebay is a lot cheaper.
 
Try tightening the BISSS screw while the engine is running and warmed up. You should eventually see the number start to raise. You want it to be at ~30 when warmed up and idleing at your set idle speed. If not it could be a poor connection, leak at the ISC, or possibly a burnt up daughter board in the ECU (but I doubt that).
 
Try tightening the BISSS screw while the engine is running and warmed up. You should eventually see the number start to raise. You want it to be at ~30 when warmed up and idleing at your set idle speed. If not it could be a poor connection, leak at the ISC, or possibly a burnt up daughter board in the ECU (but I doubt that).

Look at my log and video.I tried many things but I can not adjust Idle run correctly
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/432555-ecmlink-v3-sd-idle-problem-please-help.html

You could do the same thing that I usually suggest. Delete that shit, run ISC emulation in link and forget about that pain in the ass once and for all.

I do believe STM still sells the block off plate although ebay is a lot cheaper.

I tried to block off ISC but idle problem no fix

Video on bad or good ISC ?
Idle Problem bad or good ISC - YouTube
 
Last edited:
Revving this thread having a problem with iac and narrowban I know narrow ban is bad it's stuck at .20v but the iSC is throwing me off with it doing some weird stuff I tested ISC it seems to be just fine all points woth an ohm measurement with car off 8j link ISC reads 102 when I turn car on (is at 190d so yes car is warm) it jumps down to 29 then falls down to 0 and I adjust biss and all does nothing can't get car to idle less then 1100-1200 also will surge when warming up some but quits when warm.. can a narrow ban being bad cause this? Or is ISC bad too... just did fresh rebuild on entire motor and their is no boost leaks at all so please don't suggest it tps is adjusted to .63v afr is good every thing is good I dono what else to try I've adjusted idle switch too so I know it's in also this is a 1ga rebuild with evo 3 ported intake and ported head and ex mani any advise is appriciate I can up load log if needed but I'm explaining it pretty clear airflow perrev isn't far off either
 
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