Need wire schematic.

[DJ Raydiate]

Tom, Did you ever figure this out? I just recently got a key fob for my keyless entry and noticed tonight that my map lights flash when arming/disarming the alarm. It flashes once when you disarm and flashes twice when arming. If you could splice into the map light +/-, and run it to the LEDs in the headlights, it should work!

 

[spyderdrifter]

No, I ended up taking a break from it. Haven't figured it out yet as a result. However, I no longer have map lights. I removed the factory rear view mirror and installed an auto-dimming mirror that doesn't have map lights. Never liked them anyway. I thought about tapping into the floor lights as they operate in the same fashion you mentioned for the map lights. But it didn't work out right. I even tried tapping into the connector plugged into the ETACS box, but nothing conclusive evolved from it. I did get one of the pins to flash as I wanted when I had a test LED hooked up, but when I piggybacked the headlight LEDs, it didn't work the same way. Since then I haven't had any sound ideas to complete the mod.

 

[DJ Raydiate]

Awww I see. I didn't notice my floor lights because I made some LED arrays for the maps and they over power the brightness of the floors Once I move down to FL in 2 weeks, I'll have more time to mess with my car so I'll try and help figure this out.

 

[spyderdrifter]

Sweet. That would be much appreciated. I now have more time to work on this too. I decided to quit my dead-end technician job, so now I have down time til I get a new one.

 

[DJ Raydiate]

Well if you figure it out before I do, please let me know. I think it would be a cool little lighting mod beings that I will be baking a set of headlights open soon and could slip a LED or two in each.

 

[spyderdrifter]

Not a problem, will do.

 

[DJ Raydiate]

Hey Tom, did anything come of this yet? I haven't forgot about this. I've been busy after the move to FL, and I am just now able to touch my car here and there.

I have some questions first. How are the LEDs wired into the car? Are they on the parking circuit or on their very own switch. When you had them wired to the floor lights, did you try switching the wires around to make sure the + and - leads were right for the LEDs? Lastly, did you have any diodes in place anywhere?

The reason I ask is because I would like to try and mimic your set up and go from there. I have some LED strips that I use for testing different circuits to make sure that the circuits that I build will work for the arrays that I build. If you let me know how the LEDs in your headlights are hooked up I will be able to jump on this and help figure it out.

 

[spyderdrifter]

Sorry for the delay, I forgot you commented again. I haven't had a chance to continue with this due to my hectic work schedule and sleeping on the weekends.

My headlight LEDs are wired to the circuit running the corner lights in the bumper. Then I wired the turn light circuit to the corner lights. So now my headlight LEDs are the normal running, non-blinking lights and the corner lights are the turn signals.

 

[DJ Raydiate]

OK, when I get a chance later this week I will hook up my test strips to the side markers and see if I can get them to flash with the key fob. I might be able to try it tomorrow or Wed. and let you know.

 

[spyderdrifter]

Sweet, sounds good.

 

[DJ Raydiate]

Well, this is all sorts for jacked up. I can get the strips to work with the parking light. I can get the strips to work and flash with the floor lights. When I go and try to combine the two, all sorts of craziness happens. I think it has something to do with the fact that the door circuit and the light circuits have different types of switches (or the alarm). What I mean is, one has a positive switch and one has a negative switch. I could be wrong. I tried wiring it several different ways and right now I am stumped.

I can have both grounds hooked up and the door positive hooked up (with doors closed) and the LEDs light.

I can have both positives hooked up and the parking negative hooked up with the light switch off and the parking lights come on inside the headlight.

I will do some research to find out what I can do to get them to work how then need to.

 

[spyderdrifter]

That's the same problem I had when I was actively trying to figure this out. This is all due to Mitsu's wiring. I had the idea of wiring into the floor lighting since those lights turn on when the unlock button is pressed. I did get this to sorta work. However, when having my tester LED connected, it worked. When I hooked it to the floor lighting, it didn't. I had these tests tapped into the security alarm module bolted behind my rear seat. I thought about tapping into the lock switch circuit itself, but never got that far.

 

[DJ Raydiate]

Hey man, I may have a solution! I posted what we are trying to accomplish over on HIDPLANET and the issues that we are running into and one of the senior members over there had this to say

"satrya

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Senior Member HID MASTER

If I were to do this, I would take the connections that you individually tested to work and use them as signal inputs to relays.

Take the 2 leads from the parking light wires. Connect these to the signal side of a 4 pin relay. Call this relay "R1".

Take the 2 leads from the footwell wires. Connect these to the signal side of another 4 pin relay. Call this relay "R2".

Connect the ground end of the LED to chassis ground.

Connect one of the power pins of R1 to the battery positive.

Connect the other power pin of R1 to the positive end of the LED.

Connect one of the power pins of R2 to the battery positive.

Connect the other power pin of R2 to the positive end of the LED."

I don't have any 4 pin relays lying around but I have some 5 pins. I am waiting on a response back from him to see if the 5 pins will work or not. Once I do, I will either use the 5 pins or go and get some 4 pins and try this out. If you happen to have any 4 pin relays around, feel free to try it out.

 

[spyderdrifter]

Hmmm, sounds like a viable idea. I know I got spare 5 pin relays from DSMs. Not sure about 4 pin though, will have to look through all my stored parts. Thanks for sharing

 

[luv2rallye]

4 pin relays have 2 pins for it's coil to activate the relay (usually connect to signal and ground) and 2 pins for the circuit you're trying to control (ie. to turn on - these 2 get connected together when relay is activated) one of which is called the "common". 5 pin relays are the same with an additional pin that is "normally connected" to the "common" when the relay is not activated and disconnects when the relay activates (in case someone wants this feature - most of the time this pin is not used). So you can always use a 5 pin relay in place of a 4 pin one with the proper hookup. The coil pins can easily be identified because there will be resistance there in the 40-100 ohm range - usually around 70 ohms. The "common" and "normally connected" are easily identified because there will be continuity (< 1 ohm) there when relay is not actrivated. That leaves the other pin as the "normally open" one which gets connected to "common" when the relay is activated.

 

[DJ Raydiate]

4 pin relays have 2 pins for it's coil to activate the relay (usually connect to signal and ground) and 2 pins for the circuit you're trying to control (ie. to turn on - these 2 get connected together when relay is activated) one of which is called the "common". 5 pin relays are the same with an additional pin that is "normally connected" to the "common" when the relay is not activated and disconnects when the relay activates (in case someone wants this feature - most of the time this pin is not used). So you can always use a 5 pin relay in place of a 4 pin one with the proper hookup. The coil pins can easily be identified because there will be resistance there in the 40-100 ohm range - usually around 70 ohms. The "common" and "normally connected" are easily identified because there will be continuity (< 1 ohm) there when relay is not actrivated. That leaves the other pin as the "normally open" one which gets connected to "common" when the relay is activated.

Thank you for the info wiseman! This helped a lot and between this and a little bit of othe research I have a better understanding of how to wire in relays. I kind of knew how they worked but as for just "hey lets wire in a relay" I never knew what went to each pin. I now do.

TOM!!!! As for this issue, you can now close it. I have confirmed that this works. I went ahead and made a harness today and when my wife got home from work, I went and installed it and tried it. Works 100%.

The way that I wired everything is:

Battery + to pin 30. \
Floor + to pin 86 \ Relay 1
Floor - to pin 85 /
Power to LEDs pin 87/

Battery + to pin 30. \
Parking + to pin 86 \ Relay 2
Parking - to pin 85 /
Power to LEDs pin 87 /

ground to LEDs.

I made a "Y" for both of the wires going to the + of the LEDs with diodes so that there would be no conflict between the two relays.

The only thing that I found with this is the relay for the Floor circuit will buzz like a mofo when you close the door due to the fading effect for the interior lights.

 

[spyderdrifter]

So your light now flash when you lock and unlock the doors?

 

[DJ Raydiate]

Yep, as well as come on for the side markers. It will also come on when you open the door(which I think is kind of cool). With the use of the relays this way, you are changing the way that the circuits work and are able to have them work as they should (parking lights and door/alarm lights) without the hassle of them conflicting like they were. I don't know if the use of diode were necessary or not but I put them in for good measure.

Now that I have the harness already made up, I was going to see if I could get the low beams to flash with the alarm. I have a friend that lives across the street from me that has a 96 RS that is willing to let me borrow his headlight to try out (mine are aftermarket and have h3 and h1)

Edit: I used the 5 pin relays that I had lying around and just left 87a open with nothing on it.

 

[spyderdrifter]

Awesome. This is awesome. I should be installing my fmic this weekend, so I may just tackle the is as well. I appreciate you working this mod out, and of course sharing. I may be doing a write up for this to post on the forums with pictures for everyone, but will give you the research credit and what not. Do you have a picture of where/how you mounted the relays?

I'll also draw up a wiring schematic to accompany the write up.

One other thing, are the 5 pin relays you used the same ones on our cars from the factory?

 

[DJ Raydiate]

Awesome. This is awesome. I should be installing my fmic this weekend, so I may just tackle the is as well. I appreciate you working this mod out, and of course sharing. I may be doing a write up for this to post on the forums with pictures for everyone, but will give you the research credit and what not. Do you have a picture of where/how you mounted the relays?

I'll also draw up a wiring schematic to accompany the write up.

One other thing, are the 5 pin relays you used the same ones on our cars from the factory?

No I don't have any pics of it but I can if you want. I just did a crude install of the harness and everything. I just wanted to make sure that it would work. I even had my window rolled down with wires hanging out of it coming from the floor lights to the relays and wires hanging out of the side marker hole in the bumper to the relays . Now that I know that it works, I will be making a better looking harness and install it way better than everything just hanging out and about.

I bought the relays from O'reillys for a sequential tail light circuit that I was tying to work on but it didn't work out. I still need to try to redo it to get back to another member here on tuners. I don't know if they are the same or not but it may work the same. If they have the numbers on the bottom by the pins, just follow how to wire everything up and see.

 

[spyderdrifter]

Lol. Sounds good then. I'll share my results this weekend

 

[DJ Raydiate]

I will work on a crude schematic on how I had everything and pm it to you so you can have a little something to follow other that text.

 

[spyderdrifter]

Sweet, that sounds great.

 

[DJ Raydiate]

As promised, Here is the schematic. I figured that I would just post it here for others as well beings that the text is here too.

Battery + to pin 30.
Floor + to pin 86______Relay 1
Floor - to pin 85
Power to LEDs pin 87

Battery + to pin 30.
Parking + to pin 86 ____ Relay 2
Parking - to pin 85
Power to LEDs pin 87

Ground to LEDs.

I made a "Y" for both of the wires going to the + of the LEDs with diodes so that there would be no conflict between the two relays.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Hope this works for you.

 

[spyderdrifter]

Hell yeah that should be more than enough. I'll start on it today.