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Need help & opinions on engine rebuild

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Deathmug

15+ Year Contributor
117
1
Sep 20, 2004
Bremerton, Washington
I would really like to get a few opinions on this if possible..

Symptoms:
1. Poor idle (can hear sputtering),
2. Stuttering when accelerating between 2,500-3000 RPMs. After 3000 RPMs it runs strong.
3. Poor gas mileage. Oil getting burnt up real quick. It's spent by 2000 miles.
4. Hard start in the morning.

I had a local race shop check it out. The head mechanic said my throttle position sensor is bad. Also he believes two of my valve seals are shot. He says about the only thing I can do is overhaul the engine (the rebuild will cost $2,000 or so).

Do I have any less costly options to get it running strong? I've got the money, but I'd much rather put it into a new turbo & FMIC.
 
I believe the answer to your question is to get the head done, replace the valve guides, seals, etc, have a valve job done... then check your compression once it's back together, if you've got good numbers (150ish is alright) then you're done, if not, you probably going to need new rings at minimum, and should just rebuild the rest of the motor.
 
Instead of having it torn down and looked at. Why don't you look at some vendor sites for a new race head. It might be cheaper.
 
I'm in need of replacing my valve seals and such and my mechanic quoted me at around $1,100 and about 5 days without my car. I did some looking around and SBR has refinished stock heads ready to bolt on for $750 and if you return your head there's a $125 core credit. Here's some details from SBR's site:

2G Stock head • Hot tanked • Pressure checked • 3 angle valve job • New valve stem seals • New stock valves • New guides • Stock springs and retainers • Decked head surface • New exhaust manifold studs

When spring rolls around that's the way I'm going and if I can swing it I'll have my mechanic install my hopefully new Big28 and Evo exhaust manifold at the same time. All of that for me should be somewhere around the $2,000 mark *crosses fingers*.
 
Deathmug said:
The head mechanic said my throttle position sensor is bad. Also he believes two of my valve seals are shot. He says about the only thing I can do is overhaul the engine (the rebuild will cost $2,000 or so).

from my experience the TPS hardly ever goes bad. try to reset it to 0.9 K ohms when closed. it should be around 5k ohms when fully opened (mine is about 4.6k). Also, take a look at the link below to change your valve stem seals.

http://www.vfaq.com/mods/Valvespring-seals.html

as a last note, compression is overrated. a friend of mine has trapped over 110 on a small 16g with one cylinder below the service limit (his #3 was at 127 psi). I would definitely try resetting the TPS (http://www.plymouthlaser.com/tps.htm) and changing the valve stem seals before I dropped a buttload of money on a rebuild.
 
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