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Need help from those with GT30r experience

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projekt1

15+ Year Contributor
436
2
Nov 21, 2006
NorCal, California
I need some help from those of you that run, have ran or with knowledge of the GT30r.

I'm getting ready to install the turbo setup but I have some questions about the fitment and the hardware needed. The turbo has a mitsu BEP hotside (IINM) and will be going onto a JMFab recirculated o2 housing with a Tial 38mm external WG. I'm already running an FP Mani and a clipped Megan DP (clipped for a better fitment due to the angle on my current EvoIII o2).


1. Should I get a new DP?
2. What water line setup did you use, stock, AN fittings or what? If you ran into issues with it, how'd you fix them?
3. For the oil, did you feed from the head or OFH? With a restrictor or in-line filter?
4. Did you have any fitment issues?
5. Does someone have any maps close to my setup that I could piggy back off of for running? I HAVE DSMlink, rebuilt stock bottom end, BC272's, PTE880's, FP Mani, GT30r, JMFab recirc o2 housing with EWG and MR turboback exhaust. The rest is in my profile.
6. What o2 housing gasket did you use? I have three different gaskets but neither of then line up perfectly with the hotside. Did I just grin the gasket?

Thanks in advanced.

Edit: Added one more question.
Edit 2: Added Pictures

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I've had 2 types of GT30r's. The first one was the fp3052 which was a bolt on and was used with the stock manifold. I used FP's vband 2.5" o2 housing and a 3" downpipe. This setup was cool because you can use any 3" downpipe for a DSM.
I ran 11.50's on 93 octane with a dsmchip.

The 2nd GT30r I used was a GT3082r in a T3 housing (.82ar). I used the DNP T3 manifold and I modified the previous downpipe to the 2.5" 4 bolt discharge of the T3 housing on the turbo. I then added DSMlink and ran 10.90's on Sunoco 110.

1. If you already have a 3" DSM downpipe, you can modify it to make it work.
2. I used -6 AN fittings with SS lines for the water feed and return, and I had zero issues. I welded the fittings on the water pipe, and bolted on the -6 fittings for the thermostat housing.
3. I fed from the OFH with a -4an line, no filter, with a restrictor on top of the turbo for a Garett DBB turbo. No balance shafts, never had an issue.
4. No fitment issues, never had to dent a water pipe with either manifold, ran slim fans on the front of the radiator, and the lower intercooler pipe cleared the motor mount if I cut a little bit of it off the top.
5. Nope, sorry.

Any other questions?
 
You should be fine with your downpipe as long as everything (turbine houisng/o2 housing) stays in the same place as the last turbo. I don't know how you'll do this if you're running a FP manifold with a T3 turbine housing. That would require an adapter flange if I'm not mistaken, which would probably change your downpipe fitment enough that I'd build a new one.
I run AN lines for the water feed and return. On the rear line you need to stay low profile or you'll have clearance issues with the water pipe.
I feed the turbo its oil from the head and I use FP's black pre-filter/restrictor.
My only tight spot is between the hot side intercooler pipe and the recirculation portion of my o2 housing. It used to fit with the old stock style o2 housing but I had to remake it and give it a slight bend to go around the recirculation tube.
 
I've had 2 types of GT30r's. The first one was the fp3052 which was a bolt on and was used with the stock manifold. I used FP's vband 2.5" o2 housing and a 3" downpipe. This setup was cool because you can use any 3" downpipe for a DSM.
I ran 11.50's on 93 octane with a dsmchip.

The 2nd GT30r I used was a GT3082r in a T3 housing (.82ar). I used the DNP T3 manifold and I modified the previous downpipe to the 2.5" 4 bolt discharge of the T3 housing on the turbo. I then added DSMlink and ran 10.90's on Sunoco 110.

1. If you already have a 3" DSM downpipe, you can modify it to make it work.
2. I used -6 AN fittings with SS lines for the water feed and return, and I had zero issues. I welded the fittings on the water pipe, and bolted on the -6 fittings for the thermostat housing.
3. I fed from the OFH with a -4an line, no filter, with a restrictor on top of the turbo for a Garett DBB turbo. No balance shafts, never had an issue.
4. No fitment issues, never had to dent a water pipe with either manifold, ran slim fans on the front of the radiator, and the lower intercooler pipe cleared the motor mount if I cut a little bit of it off the top.
5. Nope, sorry.

Any other questions?

You make me think that I might have gotten the wrong turbo since you've gone through two of these, granted mine is brand new and I got it for dirt cheap though. IIRC its a GT3076r (.63ar). Thanks for your input.

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They are all the same turbo's more or less, just with different turbine housings. GT30r is an awesome turbo in almost any housing. Its awesome on pump gas, spools fast, and you don't have to run tons of boost to make power.

If you got it for dirt cheap, I'd say you made a great choice. :thumb:
 
Forgot to add this the first question....

6. What o2 housing gasket did you use? I have three different gaskets but neither of then line up perfectly with the hotside. Do I just trim the gasket?

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Which housing are you using? If the gasket needs to be trimmed, then by all means, make it fit and you should be fine. I'm assuming this is a bolt on mitsu housing?

Can you identify the housing from the pictures?

You should be fine with your downpipe as long as everything (turbine houisng/o2 housing) stays in the same place as the last turbo. I don't know how you'll do this if you're running a FP manifold with a T3 turbine housing. That would require an adapter flange if I'm not mistaken, which would probably change your downpipe fitment enough that I'd build a new one.
I run AN lines for the water feed and return. On the rear line you need to stay low profile or you'll have clearance issues with the water pipe.
I feed the turbo its oil from the head and I use FP's black pre-filter/restrictor.
My only tight spot is between the hot side intercooler pipe and the recirculation portion of my o2 housing. It used to fit with the old stock style o2 housing but I had to remake it and give it a slight bend to go around the recirculation tube.

Thats the thing I'm changing my o2 from EvoIII to JMFab and I think they have the 1g angle that my concern. Since I already had my DP cut, angled and welded (removing material) I'm hesitant that I wont have much more left to cut to get the angle back to 1G. Easiest thing would be to get a new DP, that is if the angle has a big change.

Do you remember the sizes for the water lines? I found a Vendor that sells a BB water AN fitting but will I need a adapter to that fitting or what?

Thanks for the input man:thumb:
 
^That to -6 AN correct?

I might be getting on the right track here. Will Push-Lock hose will be oaky as water lines?

I've done push-lock, but some of those hoses have to take a pretty severe bend.

the -6an swivel fittings aren't too expensive, and you can get them in 30*, 45*, 60*, 90* or whatever you need to get the job done right.
 
I feed from the head with the FP inline filter (the brownish/red one) which has a built in restrictor.
 
Has anybody used the 14mm x 1.50mm to -06AN fitting to a 90 degree barbed fitting for the pushlock hose?

Im thinking I can loop the hose to the bottom clearing the waterpipe and turbo inlet then back up to the thermostat housing..

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