Need advice. What next?

[ishnish]

Hey guys. I'm currently in the process of building up my car and my short term goal so far is hopefully 350hp. Well as of right now, what I have in the car is a E3B16G MHI turbo, evo 3 O2 housing, punishment racing FMIC, Greddy Type RS BOV (leaking so will be replaced by 1g bov), Injen intake and filter, some racing clutch, and I think that is about is as far as installed performance mods go. Now for the list of parts I have laying arounf ready to install

-Boost gauge
-Water temp gauge
-Oil pressure gauge
-Oil temp gauge
-Innovate LC-1 wideband controller with O2 sensor and DB gauge (wideband a/f)
-Fuelab 515 series FPR with 99 eclipse mounting kit
-Denso supra TT fuel pump
-1g BOV
-Apexi dunk 3" turbo back exhaust (cat-less) with Megan racing 3" downpipe

So far everything is coming along nicely now that I am making money. What I want to get next are some Injector Dynamics 1000cc injectors because I plan to run E85.

Should I also invest in some ARP head studs?

And if anyone has more suggestions on what I should purchase, please let me know. I want my car to be rock solid and safe for modding. I could REALLY use some advice. Thanks!

 

[jamarh85]

Everything listed seems like you be able to hit your target hp and being cornfed should make it that much easier. I say yes to the head studs. Fuel pump rewire and while your in there look at something like the stm tank to rail kit that includes upgraded fuel line and filter. Since you have a 99 with reflashable ecu look into evo scan for tuning. You still running the stock clutch?

 

[lilsam]

I would start of with 1000cc injectors if you plan to go e85,because you will eventually get a better setup so I would get some 1650 or something around there so you don't have to buy a new set of injectors when you switch setups.

 

[ishnish]

Everything listed seems like you be able to hit your target hp and being cornfed should make it that much easier. I say yes to the head studs. Fuel pump rewire and while your in there look at something like the stm tank to rail kit that includes upgraded fuel line and filter. Since you have a 99 with reflashable ecu look into evo scan for tuning. You still running the stock clutch?

Thanks for the advice man. Well if I can push my car further I WILL do so . Now which ARP studs should I get? Because I read somewhere that one set isn't that much of an upgrade from OEM and then there are L19 studs which are like $200+ and then CA625 which are like $300+. So they're pretty expensive.. I feel like L19s should do me just fine cause, if given the opportunity, (like I said) I will push my car further.

You recommended the stm tank to rail kit. Could you explain the purpose of this and enlighten me?

I'm definitely looking into just flashing my ecu instead of link because one, it'll be cheaper, and two, I hear it has basically everything link if not more. No I'm not running the stock clutch. I've had people guess and tell me it's a stage 4 but that really doesn't help. All I know is that it was in the car before I got it. I wanna say there is a 2600 pp but I'm not sure unless I actually open it up.

I would start of with 1000cc injectors if you plan to go e85,because you will eventually get a better setup so I would get some 1650 or something around there so you don't have to buy a new set of injectors when you switch setups.

Thanks for the response man. So you think I should just save up for 1650s?

 

[marcman804]

You are definitely on the right path with your setup. The 1000cc injectors will suffice for your target horsepower and I use the ARP studs and I haven't had any trouble. Im running a composite hg and Ive pushed 25lbs of boost with no issues. You should definitely check out ceddymods for the ecu flash in regards to tuning. I know everyone will say go with dsmlink but ecu flash is nearly half the price of dsmlink and it does everything dsmlink does and more. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/tuning-engine-management/347070-ceddymod-v1-ecuflash.html

 

[ishnish]

You are definitely on the right path with your setup. The 1000cc injectors will suffice for your target horsepower and I use the ARP studs and I haven't had any trouble. Im running a composite hg and Ive pushed 25lbs of boost with no issues. You should definitely check out ceddymods for the ecu flash in regards to tuning. I know everyone will say go with dsmlink but ecu flash is nearly half the price of dsmlink and it does everything dsmlink does and more. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/tuning-engine-management/347070-ceddymod-v1-ecuflash.html

Hey thanks marcman it's very reassuring to know that I'm on the right path with my setup. I plan to push it much further than 350 if possible (and I'm sure it will be) so now I'm wondering if I should go higher than 1000cc. I know 1000cc is just the minimum for e85 so this is why I am now asking. Which arp head studs do you use? I'm thinking of getting the L19s now. Yes I will definitely check out ceddymod because I hear the same thing about reflashing vs link. If I have the hardware to do so and at a cheaper price then HECK YEAH I'm gonna do it . That reminds me, I should probably invest in another head gasket correct? Which do you suggest? I hear of cosmetic head gasket and this is my first of hearing about composite from you.

 

[marcman804]

Yeah it wouldn't hurt to go ahead and do as much maintenance as you can. Do you know how long ago the timing belt and waterpump were replaced? I ask this because if you are going to replace the headgasket you might as well do some preventive maintenance and knock out the timing belt and waterpump. I learned this the hard way back when I first got my dsm. And as far as the headstuds you can go with the regular arp studs, they are an improvement over oem. Check out this thread for more info. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/bolt-tech/414269-arp-headstuds-should-i-invest.html

 

[jamarh85]

The stock ff uses a banjo bolt wich is very restrictive. I assisted marcman804 when he replaced his head. Standdard arp's studs came in a kit from extreme psi along with a mitsubishi cometic head gasket. He sent the metal gasket back (sent the wrong one) and went and got a composite felpro permatorque from the local advance, copper sprayed it and slapped t on. The composite head gasket has been used all over this forum on high hp apps. 99gst_racer has made 600whp on one.

"][URL="http://www.streettunedmotorsports.com/parts/stm_dsm_fuel_tank_to_rail_kit.htm"]
This is the link to the stm tank to rail kit. didnt mean to double post but when i tried to edit and resubmit a diret link it came up in standard characters.

 

[92awddsm]

Standard arp studs will be fine. The evo3 16g will not create boost levels high enough to warrant the l19 studs. Hell, i ran my 60-1 on standard arp's at up to 30psi no problem. The only reason I went to l19's is because i had the head off for valve spring replacement and hg upgrade.

 

[92awddsm]

Standdard arp's studs came in a kit from extreme psi along with a mitsubishi cometic head gasket. He sent the metal gasket back (sent the wrong one) and went and got a composite felpro permatorque from the local advance, copper sprayed it and slapped t on.

Mitsu or cometic hg? They are 2 different gaskets.

 

[jamarh85]

My fault, it was a mls.

 

[hylomar]

Fuel pump....bigger injector won't help if you can't get fuel there. Walbro 255 is the standard.

 

[ishnish]

Yeah it wouldn't hurt to go ahead and do as much maintenance as you can. Do you know how long ago the timing belt and waterpump were replaced? I ask this because if you are going to replace the headgasket you might as well do some preventive maintenance and knock out the timing belt and waterpump. I learned this the hard way back when I first got my dsm. And as far as the headstuds you can go with the regular arp studs, they are an improvement over oem. Check out this thread for more info. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/bolt-tech/414269-arp-headstuds-should-i-invest.html

I will definitely take care of maintenance before modding. Timing belt was done at 60,000 I was told by the previous owner. Idk about the water pump though so that is something I will most likely consider and do. Always better to be safe than sorry. I've actually already read that thread thank you =) I'm still considering the L19s though just don't know if they're necessary but I'd like to be future proof

The stock ff uses a banjo bolt wich is very restrictive. I assisted marcman804 when he replaced his head. Standdard arp's studs came in a kit from extreme psi along with a mitsubishi cometic head gasket. He sent the metal gasket back (sent the wrong one) and went and got a composite felpro permatorque from the local advance, copper sprayed it and slapped t on. The composite head gasket has been used all over this forum on high hp apps. 99gst_racer has made 600whp on one.

"][URL="http://www.streettunedmotorsports.com/parts/stm_dsm_fuel_tank_to_rail_kit.htm"]
This is the link to the stm tank to rail kit. didnt mean to double post but when i tried to edit and resubmit a diret link it came up in standard characters.

You wanna tell me what you mean by "stock ff" as I am still a noob . Hmmm I'll have to look into composite or cosmetic head gaskets. Like I said, I will push the furthest I can push my car if given the circumstances. I don't min spending the extra money because I have patience for it. Any recommendations on really good ones? 600whp would be awesome! Lol

Standard arp studs will be fine. The evo3 16g will not create boost levels high enough to warrant the l19 studs. Hell, i ran my 60-1 on standard arp's at up to 30psi no problem. The only reason I went to l19's is because i had the head off for valve spring replacement and hg upgrade.

I don't plan to stick with the EVO3B16G forever. When the time comes, I will definitely upgrade the turbo which is why I'm asking if I should consider the L19's. But I mean what do you think? And once I have the head off, do you have any suggestions on upgrading anything else just cause the head will be off anyway?

Fuel pump....bigger injector won't help if you can't get fuel there. Walbro 255 is the standard.

Took care of it buddy . It's actually listed on my first post

 

[hylomar]

ARP recommends the L19's for 35+ psi. You will not reach that with the E316G. If you want to push that much boost, you will want to rebuild the motor with forged internals. Wait on the head studs till you do your head gaskets. Get the standard ARP studs. Use the extra cash for some new brake pads. Build the brakes bigger than you build the motor.

 

[ishnish]

ARP recommends the L19's for 35+ psi. You will not reach that with the E316G. If you want to push that much boost, you will want to rebuild the motor with forged internals. Wait on the head studs till you do your head gaskets. Get the standard ARP studs. Use the extra cash for some new brake pads. Build the brakes bigger than you build the motor.

I definitely don't plan to reach that with my current turbo but I do plan to upgrade the turbo. Reason I think I should just get the L19s is cause I don't wanna have to invest in them later. I might as well spend the extra $100 or so now and not worry later you know what I mean? The same time I do my head studs will be the same time I do the head gasket. I'm just trying to see what would be a really good head gasket. Gonna do some research on that one.

 

[hylomar]

But are you planning to run 35 psi? There is more to consider than head lift. There are lots of DSM's and Evo's running 500 Hp on Standard ARP head studs. Most of the people that I have seen using L19's have 700+ hp. In the end it is you car and your money, but there are other places that C-note can be placed that would see immediate benefit. Brake and suspension for a start.

For the head gasket....If you are planning to pull the motor and have the block and head machined, a metal gasket is the way to go (cosmetic, hks, toda). If not, stock Mitsubishi can't be beat. The metal gaskets don't conform to the slight variations in a slightly warped head the way that a standard one does. Once everything is milled flat the metal HG will hold what every you can push into it.

 

[ishnish]

But are you planning to run 35 psi? There is more to consider than head lift. There are lots of DSM's and Evo's running 500 Hp on Standard ARP head studs. Most of the people that I have seen using L19's have 700+ hp. In the end it is you car and your money, but there are other places that C-note can be placed that would see immediate benefit. Brake and suspension for a start.

For the head gasket....If you are planning to pull the motor and have the block and head machined, a metal gasket is the way to go (cosmetic, hks, toda). If not, stock Mitsubishi can't be beat. The metal gaskets don't conform to the slight variations in a slightly warped head the way that a standard one does. Once everything is milled flat the metal HG will hold what every you can push into it.

If I have the opportunity then yes I will take it. I see what you mean though. I don't plan on working with suspension and brakes as of right now just because I want to get a lot of the engine stuff out of the way. I guess I just don't want to come back and change out the studs if, say I do one day push that much power. I'm probably being unrealistic though . I don't ever plan to get rid of this car though that's for sure. Power will continue to grow until it can't even be daily driven.

Thanks for the info on the head gaskets. I'll look into metal gaskets. Any preference on which brand? Or which specific one?

I can't believe you have an Evo III btw. That's pretty awesome bro!