Maintenance Schedule

[DGajre777]

There are a lot of threads on mods and upgrades, but it is very important to make sure that all the maintenance is done on your car. Check your repair manual for the complete list, here is the minimum list that I recommend:

Every week or every 250 miles or when you get gas/fuel:
1) Check engine oil level
2) Check brake fuild level
3) Check tires and tire pressures

Every 3000 miles or 3 months
1) Change engine oil and oil filter
- The most commonly used oil is synthetic 10W30, 10W40 and 15W50.

Every 6000 miles or 6 months
1) Rotate tires

Every 15000 miles or 12 months
1) Change PCV valve. (When you buy it, blow on one end and then blow on another, you should only be able to blow one side. If you can blow on both sides, it is bad, get another one)
2) Change spark plugs
- If you have no or mild mods get - NGK BPR6ES or Autolite 63 Copper
- If you have moderate mods get - NGK BPR7ES or Autolite 62 Copper
- If you have a LOT of mods get - NGK BPR8ES
Gap plugs to 0.028 to 0.031". Use no other plugs. No platinum or dual electrode stuff.

Every 30000 miles or 24 months
1) Replace air filter
2) Spark plug wires - (I use NGK premium wires: part# ME77, stock# 8100)
3) Coolant flush - 50/50 (with one or 2 bottles of water wetter if you want to use it)
4) Change the tranny fluid - most commonly used on manual transmissions is Pennzoil Synchromesh, which is a cheaper alternative to BG Synchroshift. After having issues with Synchomesh for a while (it is too thin), I switched to a combo of Redline heavy and light.
5) Change the transfer case and rear diff fluid (if you have AWD) - most commonly used gear oil is Redline Heavy Shockproof gear oil.

Every 60000 or 48 months
1) Replace fuel filter
2) Timing belt change: A complete list of 60k timing belt service would include all these:
- Timing belt
- Balance shaft belt
- Timing Tensioner
- Water pump
- Timing belt tensioner pulley
- Balance shaft tensioner pulley
- Idler pulley
- Crank seal
- Oil pump seal
- Balance shaft seal
- 2 Cam seals
- Harmonic balancer
- All other belts
Get only MITSUBISHI parts for the list above. OEM part does not always mean that the part is made by MITSUBISHI. If you don't know where to but parts from, this is a good start - Where Can I Buy OEM Parts Besides Junkyards and Ebay? - DSM Forums.

If your car is old, go ahead and replace all the vacuum hoses. RRE makes a good kit here - RRE's Larson Silicone Hose Kit

If anyone wants to add to this list, feel free. I hope this helps someone.

 

[fourreGsixty3]

Dee I think this would do better in the tech articles section.

Dustin

 

[andymoraitis]

Actually this belongs in the site FAQ. I'll get in touch with a Mod and have them move it.

Nice job Dee!

 

[DGajre777]

Thanks Andy!

 

[andymoraitis]

No worries pal. You may want to add to your sparkplug list if you have a chance:

For stock or mild mods: Autolite 63 Copper (works just as well as an NGK 6)
For moderate mods: Autolite 62 Copper (works like an NGK 7)

Also, it would be a great idea to add synthetic 15W-50 to the list for motor oils.

I like how you marked the harmonic for replacement at T-belt change intervals. Smart thinking son!

 

[fourreGsixty3]

Yeah I forgot to say nice job Dee. Should help cut down on the repeatative threads here in the noob forum.

Dustin

 

[DGajre777]

No worries pal. You may want to add to your sparkplug list if you have a chance:

For stock or mild mods: Autolite 63 Copper (works just as well as an NGK 6)
For moderate mods: Autolite 62 Copper (works like an NGK 7)

Also, it would be a great idea to add synthetic 15W-50 to the list for motor oils.

I like how you marked the harmonic for replacement at T-belt change intervals. Smart thinking son!

Post edited. My harmonic balancer at 61,xxx miles had wear on the rubber part, so I figured I'd add it to the list.

 

[Gs Dewd]

Good job maybe some of the less experinced ones here will see this and abide to it like it's a bible.

 

[andymoraitis]

Please note the following additional maintenance suggestions were submitted by member FORMONTOYA (Thanks Jim!)

1. On the timing belt I will check the arm that the auto tensioner pushes against, over time it can wear a dimple in it from the tensioner pin (similar to the clutch fork/pivot ball scenario). Especially on an older car (1G, high mileage 2G). Replace as needed.

2. And add a little something about a clutch job....not necessarily anything about a mileage change as that's subjective, but that when you do a clutch....change the rear crank seal and the two output shaft (axle) seals. And that you don't have to remove the housing for the rear crank seal as the seal can be "picked" out.

3. Also to look at the clutch fork and pivot ball while the tranny is out. And to double check the condition of the clip that holds the TOB. Replace as needed.

Below is a short list of what I do at every oil change, again use at your discretion:

Every 3 months which for me is about 800-1200 miles.

Start off with a trip to Discount tire for balance and rotation, then head over to Firestone for my lifetime alignment (damn camber kits), then back to the house.

Oil/filter change
Clean and re-oil air filter (if using an oiled type filter)
Boost leak test (and repair if needed)
Check plugs/wires
Remove the heat shield and check turbo/down pipe/cat bolts
Check all hoses and belts
Check for any leaks (oil, tranny, water, etc.)
Pull the wheels and yank on the suspension for any looseness, randomly check attachment points for tightness
Check brakes/pads
Creeper under the car from the front to back looking for any loose hangers, crap stuck under the car, anything out of the ordinary, randomly check critical bolts (suspension/under carriage mounting points)
Check motor mount bolts, look at motor mounts as best I can for signs of wear.

 

[Defiant]

Just in counterpoint, the factory manual has always called for a 5000 mile oil change interval, on the turbo engines, and this using the oils of fifteen years ago.