LS-1 MAF translator vs ARC-2/ VPC

[96boosted]

I saw the UIP from dejon too. I actually asked for it last week, and it popped up this week! We're still missing a piece from the stock IC location to that pipe. Dave from dejon said he needs more time to figure out how to fit in there. For now, this is for the FMIC. Perhaps any UIP with no bov would work? Using a 90 degree coupler of course.

96boosted

 

[91TSiGuy]

I see some of you are having problems with fuel and boost with such small turbos. Has anyone on the board had experience with this translator with a Green turbo and if so how much boost are you running, what size injectors do you have, etc. I'm very interested in this but am afraid that I would have to upgrade to injectors larger than my already 650s. Also, has anyone ran in the range of 28psi or more? The NE shootout is coming up and I figure some people may be running some high boost with c16 and I was curious how it reacted with race fuel and higher boost. If so, how off were your original settings if you had to change them then.

 

[pilotleston]

Originally posted by HighPSI TSi Guy


so how bout a 1G pipe...

I didn´t understand.

 

[HighPSI TSi Guy]

Originally posted by pilotleston


I didn´t understand.

i was basicly saying does anyone know if he is making/has made a 1G pipe like that 2G one.. and if it is on the site.

 

[champ_168]

I have had the Maf Translator for about 3 weeks...
The product is excellent...

I am comming from a 2g MAS w/ SAFC...Now I have a 3.5 MAS setup pull through for now and I only tune with the Translator.

My tunning results with my logger are perfect...my fuel trims are around 102-108...no knock cruising or at wot...excellent timing...fast turbo spool up...

My only dilemma is...

I have 660cc injectors, a t3/t4 @ 15PSI(low boost), webs, 255 lph hp, fmic, 3" exhaust...and other basic stuff...

My Maf Translator is set...

With these setting I run perfect...
First dipswitch up(3.5 mas), others are
down(off)....
base is set at "4" for my 660cc...yet this setting if for 550cc?
idle is set at "-1" nice rev no stuttering...
mid is set at "-1" spools the turbo hard...
WOT is set at "2" No Knock Great Timing around 20-26...

Should I be concerned that my "BASE" is set for 550cc?


This is my settings when I try to tune with Base set at "6" for 650cc...

my maf translator settings...first dipswitch up(3.5 mas), others are
down(off)....
base is set at "6" for my 660cc...
idle is set at "2" nice rev no stuttering...
mid is set at "4" spools the turbo hard any higher I stumble any lower I knock....
WOT...this is the problem...I have it set at "6"...sometimes I get 25 knock sometimes I get 5 knock at wot after 3500 rpm with about 13 degrees of timing advance in 1st, 2nd, 3rd gears...if I raise WOT one click...I get about 7 knockcount consistently, but timing goes to 1...that's right 1 degree of timing advance...car feels like crap at that point....basically when boost comes on...no matter what...the timing goes to the dumpster...with knock of 25 or 5...it dont matter... any higher on wot settings I stumble and run worse, and I cant go any lower on the WOT settings just feels like junk....

When I free rev in neutral I get knock........
And all my fuel trims are pegged at 140 and wont come down...


Not Complaining just wondering...This is a Great Product...

I was just hoping someone could confirm this same problem or if it is even a problem...or if their 660cc are set to 550cc base like me...

Any thoughts?

Oh yeah, I bought my injectors from RRE and they came wrapped with plastic and each bag had a 660cc injector stick on them...

Sorry for the long Post...Thanks for the space...

Thanks in advance.

 

[QuickSilverGSX9]

I need some advice here, my fuel trims, from what I understand, should be between 90-110%. However, my fuel trims are at 82%, give or take, and don't go up. Is this bad, and if so, how bad? Also, what the hell can I do to fix it? I'm running the 14b, 3" from the o2 back, 3" GM MAF w/ MAFT, 3" K&N, and running 16lbs of boost. Thanks in advance all.
-Bill

 

[marshall]

Champ - don't be concerned about your base, it sound like you've got the tuning figured out and working well, stick with it.

Quick - you're rich, pull fuel out.

 

[QuickSilverGSX9]

Marshall, could that be caused by a large base fuel pressure issue? Because after I got the MAFT I started tinkering and leaning things out, safe to say knock became my worst enemy (well, more so than usual), and richening things back up fixed my problems, this is at WOT I had issues with knock, not at or part-throttle.

On a quick sidenote, Satan (Mitsubishi Dealer), tried to charge me 250 dollars for my radiator fan MOTOR. JUST the motor. I laughed at them and promptly called someone else and found it for 30 dollars.

 

[Motohead1]

Hmm Champ you may be on to somthing. My 550s are acting funny. I will try tunning at a lower base setting tonight. I will let yall know what i find.

 

[marshall]

Originally posted by QuickSilverGSX9
Marshall, could that be caused by a large base fuel pressure issue? Because after I got the MAFT I started tinkering and leaning things out, safe to say knock became my worst enemy (well, more so than usual), and richening things back up fixed my problems, this is at WOT I had issues with knock, not at or part-throttle.

Sorry, should've been more specific. You're rich at non-WOT, in other words, lean out your low airflow settings.

 

[QuickSilverGSX9]

Well, actually, my low, mid and high fuel trims are all at 82%. So, does that mean I'm real rich all the way through, or, what? I don't exactly understand what fuel trims mean, what percentage is that of? Sorry for the noob questions, but I'm curious.
-Bill

 

[Ramchargers]

NUmber are just numbers. If your car like being set at a particular setting and the scanner supports it. leave it there it does not mean something is wrong. We only put those number there to help get folks up to speed a liltle quicker. In retrospect I would have said adjust it where it runs good and leave it alone. Don't get hung up on number look for results. I see lots of probelms with fuel pressure and I also see lots of probelms being solved with fuel pressure and fuel pressure control. The base fuel pressure setting should be 38PSi with the vaccum line removed from the regulator. If you are over that at idle because you hhave some big pump you will need to fix that before you can get a goood tune up. If you get in betweeen settings where 1 is too lean and 1 is too rich. Move the fuel pressure up or down a couple pounds and that will fix it.
Mike
We will ship more units this week some time.

 

[QuickSilverGSX9]

I understand how base fuel pressue drastically effects the car at idle, however, I don't understand how it effects the car at partial or full (WOT) throttle. So, if the base pressure doesn't effect WOT very much, why would my fuel trims be so low? I don't see how changing the base fuel pressure would truly help me at this point. Anyone care to comment, and particularly enlighten me?
-Bill

 

[L2RTSiAWD]

Well your FP should rise 1:1 so an increase of base pressure will increase the pressure@WOT.

 

[champ_168]

RamChargers,

I was not trying to start trouble...
I fully understand tunning...I do understand all cars always tune differntly...I was just wondering if I was alone in my findings...and maybe some people didnt realize they could deviate from the base settings...(I sure didnt untill i tried)
I Figured my post might solve some others problems too....since i have not seen someone else post anything like my previous post yet...

Everything is all good...Love the product...works exactly how described...
And I will definitly buy it again for my other dsms....

Thanks for the replies.

 

[Motohead1]

Originally posted by champ_168
RamChargers,

I was not trying to start trouble...
I fully understand tunning...I do understand all cars always tune differntly...I was just wondering if I was alone in my findings...and maybe some people didnt realize they could deviate from the base settings...(I sure didnt untill i tried)
I Figured my post might solve some others problems too....since i have not seen someone else post anything like my previous post yet...

Everything is all good...Love the product...works exactly how described...
And I will definitly buy it again for my other dsms....

Thanks for the replies.

Champ just wondering is your green led dimly lit at idle?

 

[champ_168]

Originally posted by Motohead1


Champ just wondering is your green led dimly lit at idle?

No its not.

At idle it appears to be off...
when I free rev under the hood it blinks dimly...

Im not sure what happens under actual driving..I have not extended the wires yet to put it in the car...
I believe thats what it is suppose to do...

why do you ask? should he be dim motohead?

Thanks

 

[Tallen]

Originally posted by Motohead1


Champ just wondering is your green led dimly lit at idle?

thats the way some are. jsut a bug with the LED. it effects performance or tuning in no way

 

[JJNovo]

Originally posted by champ_168

I was just hoping someone could confirm this same problem or if it is even a problem...or if their 660cc are set to 550cc base like me...

Any thoughts?

Oh yeah, I bought my injectors from RRE and they came wrapped with plastic and each bag had a 660cc injector stick on them...

Sorry for the long Post...Thanks for the space...

Thanks in advance.

I installed 660s from RRE too. After some frustrations with a way too rich condition, I finally bumped up the base setting to 8 - -40% - 750. The high and mid trims finally came up from 81% where they were stuck for what seemed like forever. Now they're in the 90-100% range.

I should mention that the AFPR I currently have will not allow me to lower the base pressure below 44. I do have an Areomotive on order to lower the pressure. So we'll see what happens then.

All of the examples everyone is posting, shows how important it is to ensure that everything is within spec before modifications are applied. And then once something is added, you've got to be vigilant in making sure that everything gets re-adjusted back to spec.

Having said that, it is all relevent as to the level of supporting mods that are in place.

Thanks.
JJN

 

[Motohead1]

Originally posted by champ_168



No its not.

At idle it appears to be off...
when I free rev under the hood it blinks dimly...

Im not sure what happens under actual driving..I have not extended the wires yet to put it in the car...
I believe thats what it is suppose to do...

why do you ask? should he be dim motohead?

Thanks

Yea its just a bug but the unit seems to be working as advertised. in fact i know it is. yes if you free rev it should go bright and if ya free rev hard enought it should light up the red led too witch is indicating WOT fuel. I did alot of trouble shooting last night and i have no boost leaks at all now. Only one i could find was a tiny leak from the set screw in the stock BOV for the 30psi hold mod. I sealed it and now i have no leaks. at first i thought maby the BOV was bad but it tested fine on the bench. The only thing it could be is I am somhow getting fuel cut and over running the 3" mas even with the #3 switch in the ON position with just a ported 14b. But since that is unlikely the other theory is that these 550s are being overrun so much its acting like fuel cut. But that is even more unlikly IMHO. I am going to tune it with a lower base setting this weekend @17psi and see what i come up with.

 

[GSX4LIFE]

Originally posted by lxlaw
Well can you get some dyno numbers stock and then some numbers after the translator?? Someone get us some info to feed the brain here. I am just kind of curious how much HP the MAF is adding on certain combos, and i am sure that everyone else is also. Someone has to have some numbers for us.

I dynoed back in Dec, and laid 373WHP at 25psi on my L2R and current setup. Couple weeks ago, I ran 12.5 @115mph. So as soon as I get everything on and tuned well, i will hit the dyno and track again,and have some more numbers for everyone.

 

[natedogg]

No offense, but aren't those numbers kind of low for an L2R. Was it just not tuned at all? I'm seriously not trying to be derisive. I'm genuinely curious.

 

[larryd]

Originally posted by natedogg
No offense, but aren't those numbers kind of low for an L2R. Was it just not tuned at all? I'm seriously not trying to be derisive. I'm genuinely curious.

UGH.. what do you think the ideal #s are.. 500??

 

[natedogg]

Well considering there are guys out there running 11's and high 10's after bolting on the L2R, I figure those numbers are kind of low or high if we're talking about the ET. Not really talking about the dyno run so much as the ET. Track times are the true tell-all, dyno numbers can be off. But, come on, I can run mid 12's on my 16G. Hell, my buddy (awd4kicks on this board) ran mid 12's on his full weight, side mount intercooled 14b.

 

[HighPSI TSi Guy]

the dyno numbers are just what should be expected.. it's the same area as the green.. as for the time, yeah that's kinda slow, but with that much power an 11 sec run shouldn't be far away at all..