loss all oil, now cant get it started

[xander061]

i took my tsi to the track the other night and on the way back the inner oil filter bolt worked itself out and 80-90% of the oil poured out. My oil pressure gauge doesnt work so i didnt realize it was lossing oil but it sounded like something was dragging then it just stalled out. I got it trailered home and fixed cause of the leak put oil in it and got it to start up and crank over twice b4 its idle problem stalled it. Now it won't start up at all. I can turn it over with a wrench on the crank pulley and when i try to start it now the start clicks once(i've taken the starter out and checked it). Any suggestions b4 i try to replace the bearings or pull the motor apart.

 

[AlaskanDsm]

similar thing happened to me but when it happened to me I was going like 75 and the engine just cut out and from then on, I had a seized head. You can smell the oil to see if it smells burnt, I know the oil that was left in the car smelt HORRIBLE and burnt. Good luck and hope its nothing as serious.

 

[DSM-Hottie]

I say you seized the motor. This is what happened to my buddy, turned out he spun all bearings.

 

[92AWDHX40]

Lost all oil siezed engine.

 

[TuRBoTaLooN]

Ditto. This happened to my 87 blazer. Bought the car and a few days later driving on the highway it just turned off and started smoking everywhere. I guess the previous owner didn't check the oil and neither did I. Whole motor seized.

 

[xander061]

i thought i could b the bearings but wanted to get some others insight b4 i spend the money and time for new bearings, i also removed the valve cover and when i turn the motor by hand the cams move and raise and lower the valves

 

[TuRBoTaLooN]

Hey, I re-read your post. If you can turn the motor by hand, the motor definitely isn't seized. Sorry, I must have gotten lazy and stopped reading halfway...

Sounds more like an electrical issue to me. If the crank turns, the flywheel turns, which means the starter will be able to turn it if it gets enough juice. Try getting your battery tested at your local AutoZone or Advanced Auto Parts for free.

OR...unbolt the starter and run power to it and see if the motor moves. If it moves unbolted, but doesn't move when it's bolted to the car, yea, sounds like something might be stuck there. Otherwise if it still just clicks when it's off the car, the starter isn't doing its job either because its shot or doesn't have enough power.

 

[hhuricane]

Hey, I re-read your post. If you can turn the motor by hand, the motor definitely isn't seized. Sorry, I must have gotten lazy and stopped reading halfway...

Actually that's not true. I've had a couple engines seize on me and after they cooled down you could turn them over. They wouldn't run as the rings were smeared all over the bores and had no compression but they did turn over.

 

[AlaskanDsm]

Hey, I re-read your post. If you can turn the motor by hand, the motor definitely isn't seized. Sorry, I must have gotten lazy and stopped reading halfway...

Sounds more like an electrical issue to me. If the crank turns, the flywheel turns, which means the starter will be able to turn it if it gets enough juice. Try getting your battery tested at your local AutoZone or Advanced Auto Parts for free.

OR...unbolt the starter and run power to it and see if the motor moves. If it moves unbolted, but doesn't move when it's bolted to the car, yea, sounds like something might be stuck there. Otherwise if it still just clicks when it's off the car, the starter isn't doing its job either because its shot or doesn't have enough power.

Agreed with hhuricane. When I seized my head, I could turn the car over by hand and when I turned the starter, the crank would spin in place because the teeth from the timing belt was ripped out.

 

[TuRBoTaLooN]

Good points. Sounds like a compression test may shed some more light on this.

 

[AlaskanDsm]

All that should need to be done is to turn the motor by hand and check to see if the belt is moving along with the camshafts at the normal rotation. If so then verifying the timing is on would be the best next step. If the crank spins in place and not the camshafts or the belt for that matter, there would be no point in a compression test as the valves are already screwed.

 

[xander061]

just replaced the starter still no good, goin to try to get the talon into my garage this week so i can drop the oil pan this week and try replacin the bearings

 

[xander061]

should i get a rod bearing set or just pay alil more and get a main bearing set?
i dont want to pay over $40 so should i just go which the ACL race rod bearing set and get the main bearing later or do u think i'll need both main and rod bearings replaced since i lost most of my oil, i'll b ordering from this site below

EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts

 

[92AWDHX40]

Get the whole set, this is your engine dont skimp, now since youre there do it all at once, and forget about it.

 

[falcon8r]

You are getting the rod bearings in addition to piston rings and whatever else may be damaged. Maybe the valve springs. Oil carries heat away from the parts, then it lubricates them. Do look the engine over well or a band aid fix will leave you with a grenaded engine. Then it's a different engine... That means the use of some precision measuring stuff. The 4g63 likes to rev. and needs a good package. Tres....