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looking at a 2g tsi!

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cruisnhard

Probationary Member
7
0
May 14, 2013
Waupun, Wisconsin
My name is Paul. I am a subaru guy but enjoy all cars. I joined this forum because I am looking at a 2g tsi. It has no motor but everything else seems to be there. I am going to look at the car this week or early next week. I am mechanically inclined and know how to use the search button. Hopefully I can contribute and gain some knowledge of this platform. Thanks.;)

Here is one of my cars.
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Welcome Paul, if there is any bit of advice I can give you to help with your particular circumstances it would be to go ahead and fully build the motor that youre going to run. No sense in dropping a stock motor in there if the motor is already out and youre mechanically inclined. I would recommend a 6 bolt weisco/eagle combo bored .30 over... that way when it comes time to shop for a turbo, you can run whatever the hell you want to because your motor can handle the power.

FYI stock motor DSMs are capable of 350-400whp (give or take) Anything over that and youre going to be looking at forged internals and E85 or race gas.

Good luck and have fun! Fortunately, you say you are mechanically inclined so you already know how much money it can save you especially when it comes to modifications.
 
Welcome to the DSM world ^_^ I have a 2g TSI myself, she's a little rough but if i can help you with anything i would be more than happy to do what i can for you. But i agree with Afizzle, mine had a blown motor with no top end, just a garbage bottom end and the trans.

Don't let anyone tell you that 7 bolts are all garbage, the only reason people don't like them is becuase they crankwalk, but hey, 6 bolts do too, they just don't have the sensor to tell what it is. But a 6 bolt top end and 7 bolt bottom end is probably your best bet.

Good luck to you and your TSI, enjoy.
 
I am mechanically inclined and know how to use the search button.

If these two things are true, then your DSM experience will be phantasmagorical.

Welcome to Tuners. :)
 
If these two things are true, then your DSM experience will be phantasmagorical.

Welcome to Tuners. :)

Love the choice of words LOL.

Op if you can't find the answers your looking for on this site, you don't deserve to use a computer. Had to make a f&f reference in some way. Good luck and welcome to tuners.
 
Thanks guys for the words! I would love to build while it is out. It will depend on immediate funds. I like to drive my cars. I have seen both 7 and 6 bolt motors with a lot of power. I would prefer a 6 bolt, but they seem to be more expensive and if I can build a 7 bolt for the same power levels then why not. I will be researching more into as I go.
 
I started off with a 96 tsi awd shell back in January and I'm finally ready to drop the motor and trans in. Good luck man it was a super fun project
 
it is a 1995 Eagle Talon TSI AWD manual trans.

So the talon I have will not start. It had rod knock on cylinder 4 so I replaced the short block. Anyways I have been searching for a couple days trying to find a solution. The car will turn over good and sounds great, but it will not start. Everything ohms out fine and I have voltages where I am supposed to. The only voltage that seems to be odd is the when cranking the motor and measuring the voltage of the output of the relay for the fuel pump it shows only 9.96 volts. It has 12 volts coming in and a good ground, but the pump does not seem to come on when cranking. It does however come on when I jump the test wire under the hood. I have checked and rechecked the wiring. The only three things not plugged in are the noise cancelling capacitor (cant find it), the a/c (did a delete), and the factory oil pressure switch (the car ran fine before without the oil pressure and running an aftermarket gauge). Any help at this point will be appreciated. Also we got a code for the crank position sensor and swapped it out with a brand new one and still nothing. I am thinking possibly bad ecu? Also another weird thing about the car is that if I unplug the crank position sensor and plug it back in the fuel pump primes and the injectors click once but that is it.

Please help. Want to drive this car.
 
A code doesn't always mean the component is bad. A lot of the time it is actually the wiring to the sensor. Measure for continuity from the sensor plug to the ecu and verify that you have power and ground at the sensor.
 
A code doesn't always mean the component is bad. A lot of the time it is actually the wiring to the sensor. Measure for continuity from the sensor plug to the ecu and verify that you have power and ground at the sensor.

Understood. I do have power and ground at the sensor along with the cam position sensor as well. I will check for continuity. I am trying to source an ECU now to try. Thanks for the reply!
 
So I have been using the search button, in case anyone is wondering, and have yet to find the no start solution. I tried a different ecu, tested the coils and will be testing the ignition control module tonight. Any help is appreciated.
 
So I found out the crank sensor was installed backwards (mistake on my part not following up on a friends work). It is now corrected and I have fuel and spark now. Although I still have no start, I am thinking a weak spark. I will be going to change wires this evening and possibly the coil. Hopefully having a running DSM tonight!

I will update again, hopefully with a fix, soon.
 
Update:

The car almost starts. Found the exhaust cam 180* out. So it is now fixed and the car will almost start, but only if we pump the gas pedal. It gets fuel either way as the fuel is getting on the plugs. It also has spark. We tried another ignition module and another coil. We think possibly the battery needs swapped out. Sometimes when cranking the voltage will drop to low and shut off the safc. This is a problem. So we are working on this and will report back.

Paul
 
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