Lack of power plus bad starting

[stanlis]

I have recently purchased a 1998 Eclipse GSX about 2 weeks ago. When i got the car i immediatly changed the spark plugs and wires and the fuel filter. Then a couple days after that i ordered an Extreme Psi intake w/ a K&N. Now here is my problem..When i first got the car it started fine on a cold start and sometimes hot. But most of the time when it was hot instead of my car starting and reving up to 1500rpms, then dropping down to 750, my car would start, an idle at 400rpms then go up to 750. Now that i've had the car for a couple of weeks, it does it when it's cold and hot almost everytime. Okay now for my second problem(maybe something to do w/ problem one or thinking it could be a whole different problem)...I can "get on" my car sometimes and my turbo sounds really loud but my car doesn't hardly move(almost like my turbo isn't working) then at other times i can "get on it" and my car pulls really strong. Other symptoms that i think go along w/ the above, is my oil cap and dipstick smell really strong in gas, and with my car at a dead stop if i rev it to 4 or 5k and let it idle back down there will be a small cloud of smoke that comes out( it looks like a blueish tint but not exactly sure)..I'm kinda thinking that the smoking thing is either my turbo or my car running rich???...Things i've checked so far for is...checked for boost leaks and only had a small one coming for the bov..i've ran injector cleaner through my car several times..checked my coil packed and got 16.4k ohms between 1&4 and 2&3, then at the 3 pin connector i got different numbers each way i tested it and all of them where above one?... Any help would be greatly appreciated..Thanks in advance!

 

[forcefed4]

checked my coil packed and got 16.4k ohms between 1&4 and 2&3, then at the 3 pin connector i got different numbers each way i tested it and all of them where above one?

well the service manual specs on this are 11.3 to 15.3 Kohms btwn 1&4 and 2&3.
at the 3 pin connector you should have .7 to .86 ohms (if you hold the connector so the clip is on top there should be 2 pins on top and 1 on bottom. starting from the left top that is teminal 1, right top is terminal 2, and the bottom one is 3. If you check from 3-2, and 3-1 you should have .7 to .86.

if you had over 1 on those pins the coil my be bad.

You might also check to see if you knock sensor has any brown goo coming out of the back of it. If there are a lot of miles on the car you might want to just replace it anyway.

 

[stanlis]

Alright i checked the coil pack and got 1.7 between 1&2, then it would jump to 1 then settle down to 0.8 between 2&3.. The reason i think the coil pack maybe be bad, is cause the car had 83k miles on it when i got it and it had the factory plugs and wires on it , so i didnt know if maybe the coil pack was having to strain extra hard to make a spark or something and wore it down.. What's ya'll opinion on my numbers and that situation?

 

[forcefed4]

just noticed something on your log, your o2 sensor is reading 0.0v at the first 2 logged rpm's. Try to do another log and see if it does the same thing.

 

[stanlis]

I think what that was, was before i got on it.. But i'll post another log asap.

 

[dieseltech]

Spray starter fluid around it and other areas that may leak and see if your idle changes.
QUOTE]

Please don't pay attention to this piece of advice. Spraying starter fluid on a running engine is like playing russian roulette. Sarter fluid or ether is wayyy to volitile to use on a running engine. You could cause serious and immediate damage to your motor. Get some carburator cleaner instead. It will produce the same results when trying to find a vaccum leak without the chance of blowing your engine up

 

[TerminalTalon]

I would say check timing and knock sensor. I just replaced my lifters and like an ass didnt move the crank, turned the cams from the cam bolts and jumped a tooth. Now after doing that I still read boost but did not have any power. Off the top of my head, the knock sensor sensed a ass load of knock and just retarded timing to where I had nothing. I had trouble getting out of 1st. It is all fixed now and I am ready to get some more kill stories. Go to streetfire.net and watch the video of my car. Search fast 5.0 or collarlocked. It is sweet.

 

[stanlis]

Well i'm still getting timing pulled like crazy and still bad starts .. I was just wondering with my coil pack being out of spec, is there a chance that it's not delievering enough spark at mid or high rpms to make my car pull timing like it's doing? I'm pretty sure i'm gettin enough fuel, cause all i can smell is gas everywhere.... Another problem i'm having now is, i installed a greddy type rs and now my boost is going crazy.. It will shoot all the way up to 20 psi and sometime it will be 15, for some reason it's different in every gear??? Also i will be taking out the knock sensor today and giving it a look..

 

[stanlis]

Is it possible, that i have a huge leak and it isn't making any noise when i pressurize the system?.. It isn't holding any air in?

 

[stanlis]

Well i changed the coil pack yesterday and it didnt fix nething.. When i reset my ECU my car idles really low even w/ the AC on and sometimes tries to cut off whenver i come to a stop??

 

[stanlis]

Well the lack of power thing no longer exsist.. The only thing my car is doing now is..when i go to start it sometimes it wont even start, it'll just crank over for like 3 seconds and then start and idle kinda tho, then go normal. And the other thing is my boost will jump up to 18psi then it will eventually settle back down to 14psi?? Thanks for all the help so far

 

[srumel]

try checking the harnesses, specifically at the isc motor. also check the fuel pressure soleniod (not the regulator, just hook the vaccuum hose from the intake manifold directly to the fpr), or take it out of the loop entirely. seems like your problem maybe around one of those two areas. procedures are outlined in a hayne's or chilton's manual. get yourself one if you haven't already

 

[BISHILVR]

My thought is that you might have a fuel pump check valve going bad on you. The smell of gas might be a hint that you have a return line leaking from your fuel pressure regulator, either of these things can make the car take longer to start since you loose the fuel pressure at the fuel rail, and then have a delay for the fuel pump to fill the fuel rail again before the car can start. Does this make any sense?