Just a question

[EuroFanatic]

Hey all, been a while since Ive been on, got a new job that's been keeping me away. Anyway, the Eclipse has been sitting for a while now, and I decided to get it running to be my DD. And I have found an issue....The car runs like garbage when starting cold, wont stay running. So I did the tests, the FICV died, I replaced that but it didn't help the idle, the MAP sensor coded itself out as faulty, so I replaced that, and it helped the driveability, but not the cold start.

I unplugged the MAF sensor and the idle immediately improved, but raised to about 2k. For the past week or 2 I have been using it with the sensor unplugged, set the idle lower and everything, runs pretty good actually, just a little rich. No CEL or anything either. I did however notice the OE 1G BOV that was on it whistles when driving though, so I swapped that out to an external dump BOV I had laying around and there hasn't been any change to the driveability after duming the air either.

Should I leave it like it is, or is there a chance to figure this out? I have been trying to fix it for about 2 months now and nothing helps.

 

[acc1079]

If you have been running a MAF, and had the BOV dumping external, theres your problem. I am betting it was breathing back through the BOV at idle, as you have quite a bit of vacuum. Plumb the BOV back into the intake, and plug your maf back in. I bet it will improve a drastic amount. Also, while your at it, make sure you do a pressure test.

Post back after you do this IF you even still have a problem.

 

[4G63_Attack]

If you think its the mas, and know someone who has a spare way not try to swap it and see if its the problem

 

[1990AWD]

It sounds to me like you have a bad MAF if it actually improves with it disconnected. Least you can do is grab a MAF from a friend and see what happens.

Also, I wouldn't recommend venting your BOV without running a blow through GM MAF or speed density. Pick up a 1g BOV and recirculate that.

 

[MY1GDSM]

Do you have a anything to log? It woulf pretty easy to spot a faulty Maf signal..... also you should be getting a code for the Maf not being hooked up....

As said before Dont vent your Bov or drive around without maf hooked up as that isnt going to help matters out at all...

If you heard your 1g Bov whistling I would asume that it was being vented as well? Also while letting off the gas a bit while cruising in vacuum its perfectly normal for the Bov to open a bit an whistle mine does all the time....

If your having cold start issues I would check your coolant temp sensor 90% the time with 2gs that is the problem

Also you fallow This an set your Idle correctly

. Also there's something that isn't mentioned it the link Above, With 2g's an important adjustment is the Idle Position Switch that's part of the TPS. ..

The manual has you place a 0.0177" (0.45mm) feeler guage between the stop screw and the throttle pulley to open the butterfly and then adjust the TPS right to where the IPS (pins 3 and 4) switches from closed to open. Then they have you verify that the TPS (pin 2 and 4) reads between .4 and 1V while the feeler guage is still in place.

 

[EuroFanatic]

Wow, wasn't expecting so many reply's so quick!

No, unfortunately I don't have anything to log it...My neighbor (not home yet) has a scanner, not sure if it is able to check signal voltage though. The CEL comes on to do its pre check, but goes off after about a second and a half.

The 1G BOV that it had WAS recirculated, but when at idle or even lightly on the gas you could hear a whistle, as soon as I let off you can hear a slight whoosh of the air escaping. I assumed the valve wasnt closed 100%. I put on the external BOV and there is no whistle anymore, also no hesitation between shifts or anything to make up for lost pressure like I would think there should be...

I don't know anyone around Springfield, let alone IL who has a 2G eclipse, I've seen several around town, but no one I know. Also, does it matter between automatic, 5spd, RS, or GST? I know one guy who has an RS, but I dont have his phone number or anything, it would be a while to swap that out.

(separate Issue, possibly related)
I did take it for a drive a few minutes ago after re adjusting the clutch, I don't think the clutch is my problem... Clutch slippage would be 4 or 5th gear WOT and having RPMs increase without engine speed increase correct? In either gear at WOT, the RPMs increase same as engine speed, BUT there is no power, no sounds of rushing air like a boost leak, and the pressure will not build up past 8psi or so. Also it has a slight hiccup, like a miss, but I think its correcting for something... I am so lost with this car...

Also...what are the specs for the CTS? I cant seem to find them on google...

 

[EuroFanatic]

Alright. I drove the hell out of it the other day, just WOT along some country roads for as long as it would go. I assume something had an injector clogged, it went from a steady 6 psi to a sudden 10psi. Now will boost evenly to 10lbs in any gear. That being said, I have the front o2 sensor disconnected, as well as the MAF sensor disconnected. Idles smooth at ~780RPM but will have a slight sputter between gears. All the while running very rich.

I did a diagnosis as per my Chilton manual, checking continuity across the bottom 2 o2 terminals, no continuity replace sensor. Haven't gotten a new one yet. Now I went to diagnose my MAF as well, to see what that read, and my book is wrong. the 96 model w/turbo says there should be 8 pins inside the connector, and to measure resistance between #6 and #8. There is no #8. I checked 2 different parts stores and all they sell are 7 pin connector MAF sensors... How do I diagnose the MAF sensor?

Also any other quick replace ideas for rich driving conditions? Took me 1/4 tank of gas to drive across Springfield IL, maybe 20 miles, mostly highway. Ran rich enough to throw fire between gears the other morning on my way to work at 5am.

Bump