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Jet Hot Coated Turbo Components [Merged 4-7]

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You probably won't be to impressed after you realize that that jet-coat doesn't really do much of damn......

I know people that have that, and they said it was a waste. And they should have wrapped it or something of that nature.
 
This is coming from a person that has wrapped their header in header wrap...

No offense but physics is physics. Header wrap is porous, moisture gets in there and is trapped. I am not going to risk it in a humid climate that I live in to wrap it, and find out six months down the road that my header is now turning to a rusted powder. Something about trapped moisture at temps that range from 30F to 1700+F, it just sounds like a bad deal in the long run...

I know that jet coating wasn't going to even come close to cutting down the heat like header wrap, I am hoping for a 20% decrease in under hood temps, maybe that and my vented CF hood I will be in the green....
20% to me was worth the $150 VS $50 for header wrap plus a new header in a year....

But hey each person is entitled to their opinion, if you like your header wrap and its working for you thats awsome. :thumb:


Its all about what makes each person happy....LOL and their car fast of course...
 
69_luv said:
Just got my header back from Jet Hot and thought I would post pics for you guys. Found some problems with putting my car back so I can't get pics on the car and after a hot run but those will come soon.

Jet Hot 2000 Blue, inside and out on a DNP Turbo Header from DSMPARTS.

It feels awsome, and I am very impressed. I think I will be more impressed after I see what kind of heat it prevents...
Click to expand...


Why didnt you have your exh housing and o2 housing coated? You might be keeping that heat in the manifold but its just gonna come out of the other parts. I am even considering sending my downpipe to jethot now. Im gonna do a hard run then pull over and see how hot it is first.

As far as the heat it prevents, I think it makes it about same as stock setup with the heatshields. It doesnt seem to be cooler under the bay or anything.

Now the phenolic spacer I have on my intake manifold is AWESOME. Magnus Manifold is cold to luke warm all the time.
 
Why do we think that at the extreeme temperatures we are talking about here, any moisture isnt going to immediatly evaporate? Maybe if you were to leave the wrap on with you car never running, and your hood open for two years in the rain forest. Or i suppose if you coated your header so perfectly that there was no way for water vapor to escape, thus spawning condensation buildup, and a mini autmosphere under your wrap. "I think its raining under your wrap dude!" :rolleyes: I doesnt seem that water is much of a problem, unless I am missing something.
 
Well with a stainless header it shouldnt matter. Either way water turns to steam at 220 degrees. So if your manifold temp was that low it might be a problem.

I do think header wrap would probably end up cracking tubular manifolds.

I don't care if it is dn's or sfp's it is going to crack if it is tubular and drive on the street for extended periods of time.
 
hostile said:
Well with a stainless header it shouldnt matter. Either way water turns to steam at 220 degrees. So if your manifold temp was that low it might be a problem.

I do think header wrap would probably end up cracking tubular manifolds.

I don't care if it is dn's or sfp's it is going to crack if it is tubular and drive on the street for extended periods of time.
Click to expand...

That's all great... but why do you think that?
 
Lets take a lesson from Alien 3...

Dip Alien in molton led, then cool rapidly, alien explodes.

I belive that cracking is caused by rapid expansion and contraction, more contraction after expansion. So if you have a way of trapping heat, then the manifold will take longer to cool down and contract slower.

I plan on wrapping my manifold, and rnr downpipe, at least to the flex section.
I dont see how the moisture will cuase rust on a stainless manifold?
 
focusedrage said:
Lets take a lesson from Alien 3...

Dip Alien in molton led, then cool rapidly, alien explodes.
Click to expand...

Congratulations on making the most random analogy I've ever seen on here, seriously that was awesome :thumb:

The problem that you run into is that the flanges have more mass than the pipes and as such they retain heat for a longer period of time than the pipes do. This expansion and contraction on a frequent basis will lead to cracks over time. Some people try to make the argument that headers don't crack on NA cars, well they're not supporting a turbo. If you have a bolt through your downpipe to the block then that will help, but the fact of the matter is a tubular manifold will never have the same lifespan as a factory cast iron manifold, period.
Depending on your particular car use that might not be an issue to some. Personally I'll always run an EVO III manifold on my daily.
 
Also, isn't stainless steel almost impervious to rust that's why it's called stainless and used in cooking applications because it doesn't rust? I'm not the smartest person in the world but, that would be the first thing to come to mind.
 
I plan on ordering an AGP T3/T4 kit soon, and although I do not plan on wrapping it, the one thing I worry about is the radiator hose (I have had a bad experience before with one) I was planning on wrapping the radiator hose a bit to keep it from getting too hot. Anyone done this before?
 
well thanks for the compliment, i think that the evoiii manifold is probly the best idea interms of cost and reliability, but some times that pretty raceing part is hard to pass up
 
Just thought I would post this for you guys....

I had my header jetcoated....wow what a look

I will put this plain and on the line, and you all can argue.....and I am sure you will...LOL


Anyway. I had my header jet-hot 2000. One its awsome, two IT DOES help in heat. Not only do I notice an incredible difference in how fast the header cools, but it also cut under hood temps down considerably.

As for the look....hot....hot....hot.
The color has not changed (500 miles), and I have been running it hard.

I will take pics in another 2k miles....LOL

IF Any one has questions about wrapping a header call your local powder coat shop...ask them what they have to say about wrapping anything.
 

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On a side note, I'd get that header milled at it's sealing surfaces before you send it in. I swear I milled .060" off that dnp header on the head side and probably about .010" on the turbo side. This was a brand new never installed header, and I could tell it was warped by just setting it on a table and seeing huge gaps everywhere.
 
my torque elbo and mil spec eye doesn't see.....
but it looked pretty flat on the table, and true as it came out of the box....


But if we are getting the close about specs than yeah get it checked.....LOL....

wasn't this about jet hot VS Not ?
 
swing lo said:
You probably won't be to impressed after you realize that that jet-coat doesn't really do much of damn......

I know people that have that, and they said it was a waste. And they should have wrapped it or something of that nature.
Click to expand...

WRONG! at school one of my best instructor said that wraps are a quick fix and they are not worth it unless u plan to take it off in a day or two...he also said jet hot anything you can it is the best thing out there of its kind! he worked for a mitsu dealer for over 10 years and has built MANY race cars i take his word! he has had tons of experience
 
Back when I was drag-racing large V-8's, I experimented with both header wraps and Jet-Hot coatings. Now keep in mind that these were not NEAR the quality that our stainless headers are for our cars, they were regular steel. With both the coating and wraps the headers would got hot enough to crystalize the steel and become very brittle. They would usually crack at the beginning of the primaries and at the collector with just the torsional stress. And they were never suporting the weight of a turbo. Granted, both were quite effective at doing their job. Usually only took about 20 runs to crack one or both.

-Matt
 
Chuck_3 said:
WRONG! at school one of my best instructor said that wraps are a quick fix and they are not worth it unless u plan to take it off in a day or two...he also said jet hot anything you can it is the best thing out there of its kind! he worked for a mitsu dealer for over 10 years and has built MANY race cars i take his word! he has had tons of experience
Click to expand...


I'm willing to bet that if you took a coated vs wrapped manifold, and ran them equal times, and then put a heat meter in each engine bay, i gaurantee you the wrap would keep things hella cooler.

Wrap works period. Just look at how many drag car's, and street drag car's in the magazine's that use wrap versus coating.

Look at all the facts please before you go saying that coating is better. Like
 
The true test would be to have someone mount their mani on the car(uncoated) and measure the underhood temp. Then send it out to be coated and retest.
You could do the same test with the plain mani, wrapped and the coatied one.

On a side note, has anybody tried this
http://www.techlinecoatings.com/Exhaust.htm
I know it's not jet hot coating but if you were unsure about jet hot coating, I think this might be a cheaper alternative.
Good luck
 
From my experience (I'd wrapped my manifold, O2 and downpipe).. I can tell with absolute certainty that the wrap is extremely effective at insulating the heat (could actually touch the wrapped items).

Though using it on thin walled mild steel is a bad idea due to the condensation = rust issue stated previously (my E-M downpipe rusted in half in < 1 year) :mad:
 
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