Internally gated RS49

[Turbocharged]

yea I got it mounted, took awhile to adjust the since wastegate since it kinda hot to adjust when u just made a pull. I'll post pix this weekend.

floor it in third, I get 10psi by 3k and 20psi at 3700-3800 ish.

i'm on stock unported manifold, with a leak at the between head and manifold. an i'm on the stock T28 turbo to manifold gasket which i'm sure isn't helping my spool.

Spool will come down a lot after porting. Throttle response will be greatly improved.

 

[FourG63 97GST]

tru, but I was afraid of creep. so I didn't want to do all that then end up having to go external of the manifold.

a ported SBR will replace the stocker

 

[Turbocharged]

I have a tubular o2 housing and Im able to run as low as 15 psi. Thats with 2.5" -> 3" turbo back exhaust and no cat. I opened the exhaust manifold up quite a bit.

I think tubular is the way to go if you want rock solid boost control.

 

[FourG63 97GST]

kinda an ok pic

 

[JiveMasterT]

kinda an ok pic

how was it setting that up? do you have any creep issues?

 

[FourG63 97GST]

how was it setting that up? do you have any creep issues?

well its only one bolt
and no i dont creep

 

[JiveMasterT]

well its only one bolt
and no i dont creep

how much boost are you running and where does it make it by? you said you make 10psi by 3700rpms, but im assuming you are running more boost than that...

also, the time in your profile, is that with the 50 trim?

 

[PSIcho]

Hate to bring this thread back from the dead but I guess nobody has sent Ben a pic yet about the actuator arm to flapper attachment problem. Here's a bad pic of it (from a phone camera, ran out of battery on my digicam). Anway, as you can see the arm is about 3/4 inch away from the flappers rod. As Mark (sweet97) mentioned previously, you'll probably need to drill another hole in the actuator bracket closer to the bend in order to mate the arm to the flapper. I sent this over to Ben so hopefully, he'll have an answer soon.

 

[sweet97]

I sent clear pics showing how I had to drill a hole closer to the bend of the bracket to get the alignment better. Not sure if any thing has/will be done but it's an easy fix but a bit ugly so I asked him for a fresh bracket should I sell my 60-1. Using an allen head bolt would make it an even better fit as you could get closer to the bend in the bracket. Mark

 

[CanadianTSi]

Just grab it with some pliers and pull it on. It's supposed to be tight like that so it won't blow open. I have my wastegate arm setup short just like that.

 

[PSIcho]

Just grab it with some pliers and pull it on. It's supposed to be tight like that so it won't blow open. I have my wastegate arm setup short just like that.

You can't really tell from this pic, but the actuator arm is directly above the flapper rod, the problem is that you can't attach it because its 3/4 inch apart. The issue is depth not reach.

 

[sweet97]

You do need about an 1/8" preload on the actuator arm, possibly more if you are running higher boost levels. The issue here is the angle the arm takes when on the flapper arm. Not a biggie as I have run mine with the angle but personally have my mounting nbracket hacked a bit to allow a more straight attachment. Mark

 

[bfdahl]

I noticed that all of your actuators are different than mine! I have a Billet aluminum AGP actuator. I wonder if it lines up better?

 

[Turbocharged]

I have the billet AGP actuator as well. What does everyone else have?