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Installing a boost gauge..

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Absit

20+ Year Contributor
2,390
43
Dec 19, 2002
Davenport, Iowa
Well I got all but done and the rain came, so now I'm left with just a final few connections and I figured before I got it all buttoned up I'd seek the wisdom of the forums to make sure I didn't screw anything up too much.

I'm installing a VEI Systems Dual Boost/Wideband AFR gauge into a instrument cluster bezel dual pod. Instructions can be found here:
http://www.veisystems.com/docs/Instructions-D1-BOP-WBA-M.pdf

I'm planning on installing the sender where the red circle is on the attached picture (ignore the purple arrow, picture scavenged from the engine bay virtual tour). If for some reason the picture fails, it's on the back side of the driver's strut tower, next to the silver metal hose that does something I'm sure very important. I'm running 3 wires from that, through the steering boot, back into the car. The wires are +5v (to the sender), data, and ground - this is all fairly straight forward and I shouldn't have any issues with it. I have the sender T'ing into the standard line everyone suggests coming from the intake manifold to the fuel pressure thingamabob.

Now the gauge itself, well, I looked around for about an hour and didn't find a ground point I loved, and honestly I didn't really know what I was looking for, so for now I cut out my ash tray light and tapped the LIGHTS and GROUND to it, I tapped the +12V SWITCHED to the cigarette lighter center wire.

The gauge uses the LIGHTS wire to dim the gauge when it receives voltage, going into a night mode.

The expected result is the gauge will turn on when the car is turned on, will accurately read vacuum/boost, and will dim when the headlights are turned on. Based on my description of the install, will it work?

EDIT
Rain quit, went out and finished up and tested it. 100% operation, dims when the parking/headlights come on, -15 at idle, just gotta finish hiding the wire and trying to get the instrument cluster bezel to fit. Changed attachment to show the actual sender.

This is the first time I ever messed with anything electrical on my car, and I was terrified. I referred to the garbage instructions that came with the gauge and the Haynes manual repeatedly but at the end of the day I just had to wing it a few times and this is a very cool feeling.
 

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Im not sure how the boost gauge is connected in the talon (was in there when I bought it), but when I installed the boost gauge in the lightning I just wired it up to my head light switch & dimmer switch. It dims with the switch and comes on when the headlights come on in night mode (when it gets dark lights come on). Sounds like you got it all figured out and working properly though.
 
I didn't want to run with the dimmer because the gauge takes a 12v to dim and I assumed the dimmer was just a variable resistor that may or may not work. There are no good write-ups for VEI gauges for DSMs and they're..different, but I like the dual gauge concept.
 
It works fine on the dimmer 3 wires, blue/white is 12v black/white is ground middle wire you leave alone.

There's a how to on here somewhere.
 
It all worked out.

Lights On
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Lights Off
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Glad you got your gauge working and enjoying the results. Sounds like it all worked out for you congrats and enjoy.:thumb:
 
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In action, looks like I'm holding boost decently..
 

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does the wideband not work?

Don't have the sender for it yet, needed to get a boost gauge in ASAP to run a boost leak test, the sender will come later when I'm ready to tune, but no point in buying a gauge with just boost now when I'll want both eventually.
 
I dont mean to bother but, will you be kind enough to show me how and where you installed the sender for that Gauge?

Im buying the same one but im concerned about the sender how it's installed.

Thanks in advanced
 
I dont mean to bother but, will you be kind enough to show me how and where you installed the sender for that Gauge?

Im buying the same one but im concerned about the sender how it's installed.

Thanks in advanced

Actuall if you see the very first post the attached picture is the sender, it's mounted to the driver side front strut tower via the adhesive pad they include with the sender. The wires are loose in that picture but I ended up routing them back against the firewall and loomed them. They're run into the engine bay via the steering boot.

If that picture isn't working for some reason, it's also here:
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And here (under 17 AUG 2010):
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3875020/3

I'll try to get you a finished picture tomorrow.
 

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The vacuum line is the same one all the guides/vfaqs suggest (intake manifold to fuel pressure solenoid).
 
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Sorry it took so long, and hopefully this picture isn't huge, this is my first upload/post from my phone.
 

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