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Illumina for soft springs, Koni for hard springs, but...

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hsk8te2006

15+ Year Contributor
182
1
Jun 9, 2007
Ann Arbor, Michigan
Hi Folks,

Before I dive in too far, let me give you my goals first:

I drive a '96 GST spyder. Future plans will include power increase of 300-350 hp (I hope), but for now she's just barely above stock running 14psi of boost.

What I'm looking to do is change my suspension to build a street car lowered by a max of 1-1.5 inches that will handle better than stock. I have never raced the car, but I am considering possibly trying some road racing or autoX this summer, but not sure yet. My primary goals are to just aim for awsome handling on the street, and a little less whel gap, but NOT become too harsh a ride (It's best if the girlfreind still feels comfortable in my car, ya know?) :thumb:

My first question is regarding spring rate and suspension frequencies. I've heard that springs which would support a suspenson frequency fo roughly 1.8Hz front, and 2.0Hz rear should fit my needs, so:

1.) When folks talk about ferquencies (as above), is that referring to the damped or undamped frequency?

Now, on to shocks...

Anyway, so far I've learned that it's important that whatever shock I go with has low levels of high speed compression (HSC) damping so bumps in the road aren't too harsh.

I've also learned that for performance I generally want at least a decent amount of Low speed rebound (LSR) damping.

From the reading I've done, a Koni yellow would tend to fit this description, and is the definite choice for harder springs (450/350 for example).

However, cost is always a concern, so I'm also considering the tokico illumias. I've read that they actually have even less HSC than the Koni's (at least on their softest setting), however they tend of have lower LSR (at least at the comfortable HSC setting), and if I turn up the settings to get mroe LSR for a stiffer spring, I'll end up with too much HSC, so illuminas tend to mate better with softer springs only.

Truth be told, as far as springs go I am still debating between something low-drop and a softer/PROGRESSIVE spring rate (trying to minimze bump induced compression again) like a Eibach Pro-kit or H&R OE Sport, or a set of coilovers like a linear rated Ground Controil with a higher rate which would also allow me to raise the car back up to stock height in winter (not absoluitely necessary, but potentially useful).

Whichs leads me to the following so far unaswered important questions about different shock/soring set-ups for my '96 GS-T Spyder:

2) If I were to go with a softer spring (pro-kits for example), in order to get enough LSR from the illuminas, would I have to turn it up so high that the HSC would start to become harsh?

3) Would Koni yellows over-damp (in LSR) a softer spring, or would I just need to use a softer rebound setting?

4) If I combine Koni yellow with linear rated stiffer GC coilovers (450/350 for example), will the ride quality over bumps suffer anyway from the linear (and thus stiff-right-away) springs (instead of softer then stiffer if they were progressive) regardless of the low HSC damping of the Koni yellow?

5) What is the effect of High Speed Rebound (HSR) damping (such as coming off a street bump) on comfort, and how do thse shocks perform in HSR?

Also a side note.. being that I have a spyder, even if the answer to question 4 above is no (the ride comfrt will still be comfortable with Koni yellows and hard springs), would I be better served to get softer spring rates and add a stiffer rear swar bar? (or both?)

Thank you everyone for whatever input you can offer!:D

Jonathan
 
BTW I've decided against Prokits... too soft for a 1 inch drop IMHO. (Softer than stock and lower... sounds like a bad combination to me...)

Still considering the H&R OE sports as a lower spring rate alternative.

Anyone have any input on my questions above?
 
Can someone help me with my questions above? I've searched and searched for 5 hours, and I can't find the answers anywhere...
 
Just get Coilovers and stop new threads everyday!

Tein, Megan Racing, and D2 have affordable coilovers that are significantly stiffer than stock, springs specifically meant for their shock (visa versa)and have adjustability.
 
I appreciate the thought, but like Jtoby, I don't like the sound of compression and Rebound only being adjustable together (as all of the true coilvoer setups in my price range are).

I'm fairly sure about the Konis at this point. Problem is, what to get for springs...
 
I have never raced the car, but I am considering possibly trying some road racing or autoX this summer, but not sure yet.My primary goals are to just aim for awsome handling on the street, and a little less whel gap, but NOT become too harsh a ride (It's best if the girlfreind still feels comfortable in my car, ya know?)

If you plan on AutoX your primary concern should be getting a great set of 235-245 width tires on AT LEAST 8" wheel. Your tire and wheel combo will make the biggest difference in handling. The stock 16x6 and 205 width are a joke for a heavy DSM. Second, our spyders weight in at a hefty 3140lbs (i wighted my car a few months ago) that is the weight of an AWD but with the single piston calipers. You should at least have the 2 piston set up with some EBC Redstuff before hitting the track. Third, if your set on getting Koni yellows than get custom Ground Control springs end of story.

You don't need a badass suspension to AutoX but you will definitely need a good set of tires and brakes. Also, the only way a spyder can road race is to weld a roll bar in your car.
 
DSMSpyder99,

I appreciate all of your concern for the otehr things I need to look into.

However, for now, I have a strut that will fail inspection in 2 weeks, so getting new shocks (and springs to match) is my first priority.
 
I appreciate the thought, but like Jtoby, I don't like the sound of compression and Rebound only being adjustable together (as all of the true coilvoer setups in my price range are).

I'm fairly sure about the Konis at this point. Problem is, what to get for springs...

You're on the right track, it's clear you've done your homework. Koni Sports I recommend to almost everyone. Based on the provided info, go with the springs you've already mentioned, the H&R OE sports. They pair very well with the konis in my experience. The H&Rs also lower the car very mildly. I always described the look of my old GST with the oe sports as "good/sporty" as opposed to "lowered." That's perfect as far as I'm concerned. Nobody, even when asked, could tell it was lowered. This includes passengers and GF.

With the konis and H&Rs, the performance will be there. Need more performance down the road? You already have a great foundation with the konis, just add GC coilovers and custom springrates.

Lastly, I agree with the tire statement. This is why. My setup now with konis and hypercoil 650F/350R is just fine on the street. Stiff sure, but never harsh. (Mostly because the konis can control the springs. With a lesser damper it would be out of control, probably literally.) Also a major factor is the stock rims and tires with provide a nice cushion, making the ride a lot nicer. When I bolt on the R-comps on the evo rims, the ride changes significantly. I absolutely would never recommend it in a daily driver with GF in car. Not that it's terrible, it's just a bit much for driving to work.

If you can swing it, the best compromise/performance setup is a mildly lowered, well dampened suspension with two sets of tires and rims.
 
I appreciate the suggestion of 2 sets of tires and rims, but I actually already have 2 sets (witner and sumer), and there is no way I can afford, or store actually, a third.

I considered the cost of getting new wheels, and maybe wider tires, but right now taking care of the shocks/springs is my 1st priority, since I need to change them out to pass inspection anyway.
 
However, now that I am set on stock tires/wheels, at least for now, what do you think about getting GC coilovers?

My concern earlier was maybe having a stiffer spring with a linear rate (as the GCs are) would be too harsh, and that maybe the progressive H&R OE sports springs initial softer damping rate would make them a better choice. However, if yout hink the GC coilovers would match the Koni's well, and not be too harsh, then I may go that route so I can raise the car back up in winter.

A third idea... what aboit using the H&R OE sports on coilover sleeves, so I can still adjust the ride height up for winter?

Your thoughts everyone?
 
However, now that I am set on stock tires/wheels, at least for now, what do you think about getting GC coilovers?

My concern earlier was maybe having a stiffer spring with a linear rate (as the GCs are) would be too harsh, and that maybe the progressive H&R OE sports springs initial softer damping rate would make them a better choice. However, if yout hink the GC coilovers would match the Koni's well, and not be too harsh, then I may go that route so I can raise the car back up in winter.

A third idea... what aboit using the H&R OE sports on coilover sleeves, so I can still adjust the ride height up for winter?

Your thoughts everyone?

I don't think you're third idea will work for two reasons. One being that I don't think the lower spring perches on GC sleeves are designed to work with how an OE type spring coil. Linear springs are generally flat. And two, the length of the H&R springs are longer than 8". This may affect the range of adjust ability.

Just curious if you have taken a ride in a car with any of these setups just to get a baseline? Even a fresh OEM setup will feel much more refined than a sloppy worn out piece. Hate for you to purchase something that didn't fit your criteria due to that variance in comfort and performance.
 
Makes sense abotu the incompatibility of H&R OE sports and coil overs due to length...

No, I haven't had a chance to ride in a car with any of these to get a baseline... I was trying to potentally work out spring rate based on suspension frequency... any experts on that read this? IF so, please show me how to calculate it (trouble finding it...)

Last note... the suspension may be 12 years old, but it has only had 50k miles of use, so aside from the one shock that is barely starting to leak enough to fail inspection, not sure how worn out the stock suspension is...
 
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